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I've had the chance to ride with Briggsy quite a few times. My old man knows him well and we all rode dirt bikes during the 2003-2010 sort of period, and I bought my first scooter off him when he was running his shop out in East Tamaki. He's one of the more flamboyant riders I've watched. I remember quite well watching him in the Motard class at Paeroa one year and he was backing his KTM in with waaaay more angle into Goldfields Corner than anyone else, then something happened to his motard and he hopped on a brand new KTM Duke 990 (somehow it stayed in the motard class) for the next race and was backing that thing into Goldfields as well. That goes to his background in speedway racing and his old man Barry Briggs. Christ he was fast on dirt as well. Blew past my pissant little RM125 as if it was standing still. There wasn't a garage or bedroom wall of a bike nut that didn't have a poster of at least Stroudie's V1000 up there.
Awesome! Wish I had seen this vid 10 years ago! very well explained - Done a couple of maps on my 900ssie with a 16M and my 620 ie monster with 59 M, as well as for a friends 1100 hypermotard with 5AM. Soon enough on my ST2 that has the 15M with eprom (actually should be very similar to what you have done here), with the right xdf, obviously.
Hi George, I've got a 99 900SSie with a 15M that has never been touched. I was wondering if you could share what improvements you noticed? Specifically I notice a rather abrupt transition from off throttle to on in low speed corners and it upsets the chassis to a certain extent and I would really like that to go away. I also don't want to brick it or wreck the stock map with any of my changes. Any insights you can share would be appreciated.
I'd like to see the Wishbones separated a bit more, the closer they are together (vertically), the more strain they're put under during Braking. Also, Rod Ends aren't designed to take loads in the way the Lower one is set up, with the Suspension loads going through it. Interesting take on Mr Hossack's design though, and nice to hear him getting a credit/mention.
No. In a Girder Fork System, the Upright is held by (and moves on) Four Link Arms (two on each side), the Link Arms attach to upper and lower Fittings that Pivot in a conventional Headstock. There are many different design variations, but they basically all work the same way. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2nA2X_WPM9g.html
@@chrishoesing5455 Sort of Chris. Unsprung Mass would be similar with both Systems, The Upright and everything on it (Wheel, Brakes, etc), and (most of) the Link Arms and Shock.
@@Docv400 sorry I should have said swivel, not pivot. I meant the head tube and bearings. The girder would have slightly less moving mass as the two large bearings wouldn't be a part of it.
This is PHENOMENAL! I can't thank you enough for this introduction to tuning! I have 2 748's and a 996 that I could use this on. I stumbled upon this video and was so excited! You presented an excellent amount of detail for someone starting out. Really, thank you!!
I have a 98 Ducati 748 that seems to die at about 4K rpm. I can’t figure out why. What are the odds you can sell a man an EPROM? I don’t have any particular interest in tuning. I just want to ride my bike. Can you help?
Put the joint steering ball allover the imaginary lines better the top triangle pins en the chasis and the bottom pins triangle on the chasis Them when the suspension move up or down you have same line on the steering
Alan, you turned me on to this video many years ago, but I lost it, so pleased to stumble on to it today! I am just starting work on my dit bike front end, finally!!
Hey there. I never realized that OddBike hosted this on RU-vid. I'll answer the questions: No, no recent video of this bike: it was basically an "art bike", and was horrible to ride, but the front suspension worked fantastically well. The running components were returned to their donor chassis in 2020, and a custom scrambler was built from it. Thank you! I take "insane" as a high compliment. :) No, in fact, the A-Arm length is how you control the wheel path, and pretty much have to be unequal-length to get a pretty straight wheel path. The more vertical the wheel path, the greater anti-dive it has. The more leaned back (like teleforks) the more pro-dive it has. If the wheel path lengthens the wheelbase, it is actually pro-rise. Tony Foale is who I learned this from. His books are utterly invaluable when designing motorcycles. Спасибо! Быть маньяком - это круто Hitting a curb... I think the rim would bend. On this bike, the A-Arms were constructed of 1" .074-wall tubing, and have solid 3/4" pivots. For comparison, a pre-runner truck uses 1.25" .125-wall tubing for it's suspension components. The truck uses material that is ~4x the stiffness but the truck weighs more than 10x what the bike weighs. But, generally, if I'm hitting a curb, I'm having other problems to worry about.
I have a 2010 Streetfighter 1098 that will idle perfectly when warming up at 1300 RPMs. But when you take off to ride and go over 4000 RPMs the throttle sticks/stays at 4000 RPMs. The bike will rev higher, but when you let off the throttle it just goes back to 4000 RPMs as if that's the idle speed until you restart the bike. After restarting the computer and the bike, it goes back to 1300 RPMs. I checked the cables and stepper motor, they were both operating correctly. Would you say this is a ECU problem and anything I can do to fix this ?
...It made 5 hp more than a bone stock control Bonnie run the same day. After 5k of engine work including pistons, ported heads, cams, 270 crank conversion.
It's a 2006-07 R6 front end modified to fit. Custom 17 inch wheels, I think they were made by Buchanan. Brake calipers had to be shaved on the inside to fit the wheels. Rear shocks are one-off Ohlins based on Sportster units, with blacked out bodies.
Bob is a friend of a friend & his Black beauty is beautiful. These people don't even call themselves owners they are called care takers of these incredible machines. I must have took 500 pictures that weekend.
My bike has 853 kit on it, has a chip for aftermarket full 45mm Arrow pipes, when I got the bike adjusted the TPS setting using a volt meter fatten up the mixture overall reset the idle mixture pot, it was sputtering, and coughing a bit, pretty clear the base settings on the bike had not been adjusted after the pistons were install. I think they called it a day after they put the chip in, and exhaust. I've been thinking it would be nice to have a nicer ECU setup outside the OEM hardware, but really a good tuner is by seat of the pants, and a set of gauges. I have a older aircooled 77 Ducati 500 that had 105 mains stock, I upgraded the ignition system, installed some ram tubes. found that the bike wanted more fuel, ended up happy with slightly lean, and 115 mains with the needles adjusted all the way up, probably could stand al little bit bigger jet still. The quality of fuel has changed a lot since 1977!
Is an AFR of 13:1 where you would expect the best power? And do you know how power might vary if the AFR was 14:1 or leaner? My old BSA twin was making 85hp with a lean AFR and I'm wondering what power it may have now with richer jets.
On the dyno I got my best results around 13.5:1 running ethanol free fuel with diminished returns beyond that. But that is too lean for a street map, it doesnt account for as much load or the effects of ram air. I target 12.5 to 13 at WOT measured on road AFR as my ideal. On the dyno that ends up about 5 percent richer than what will make peak HP. E10 might vary the numbers too, it has a different stoichimetric ratio than E0.
Jason you may be able to give me an idea, the mufflers I'm using go through at a reduced 38mm, the tail pipes are 51mm what could I expect by fitting 51mm straight through mufflers. Other than more noise, which may or may not be too bad.
By accident I ran across your video and listened to it and I have to ask you how you have become an ‘expert’ on what is wrong with the motorcycle industry? How does a jewelry salesman from Montreal all of a sudden become a guru on the future of motorcycle sales trends? Maybe you cannot afford to purchase a new motorcycle for $15k however there still are a lot of motorcycles being sold to many customers who have passion for motorcycles from all age groups. Motorcycles will always be sold as they offer us transportation, the ability to take on holidays and provide many with a way of life. There are so many cool motorcycles out there it is amazing! My 3 college buddies who I have just graduated with all have owned bikes since we were kids and all own really new great bikes from Tiger 800’s and R1200GS with those ‘aluminum bags’ you rolled your eyes about. We put on 16000 miles on last year on a trip from Arizona to Alaska and back plus more and we were fortunate to meet a lot of other ‘younger riders’ on the trip. You come across as an ‘incredible Odd Guy’ who lives in an ‘odd Bike Bubble’ who should stick to jewelry instead of spreading your ‘Odd Comments’ . Instead of putting out useless banter you should get a real job so you can buy yourself a new $15,0000 motorcycle and enjoy the ride so you have an idea of what you are talking about. Then at the end of the video you are looking for donations? Really? You must be kidding or do you think people are going to give you free money so u can buy your bike of your dreams? Get a life and quit being an ‘Odd Ball’ wannabe biker looking for handouts! Go to school and get a real job
By altering the lengths, and the position of the pivot points you can get almost any wheel movement path you would want for whatever the bike will be used for.
You are getting into 4-bar linkages, which can do some pretty cool motions. If the linkages were the same length and parallel (not crossing each other), you will get motion that maintains the same angle/parallel. EG you could make a desk that works for sitting height and can be raised for standing height and it would still be level/not dump everything off it. If they are unequal length linkages, then motion causes angle change. But if you consider what is happening to the rest of the bike geometry, the front end would be diving, so even though relative to the pivot points, it would be parallel, the actual total effect on the bike would be rake angle loss and trailing loss (just like a normal bike). But then you would also have forward to back motion that doesn't exist in regular bikes (well, except by flexing). That would affect wheel base, but could actually be tuned to get rid of the loss of wheel base regular bikes see when the front dives. If you make the top link shorter, the front wheel will swing further out (more rake, more trail, lengthening wheel base and looking more like a chopper). This could counteract some of the effects of front end dive. But overdone, that would cause competing motions when hitting something like a curb or exiting a pothole. The backward force would try to _raise/extend the suspension,_ at the same time that the upward force is trying to lower it. If excessive, that would make the front suspension not even react/move (wham!) or even increase the upward bucking. If you make the top link longer than the lower link, then the opposite effect happens. Hitting a bump/compressing the front would also tuck the wheel back/shorten wheel base. The angle of the pivots on the frame controls where the motion will go. Think about the 1st case with even length links (staying parallel) Now imagine a big circle. if you were having motion approximately tangent to that circle, what angle would you want to start at? The bottom and top have almost no vertical travel (bad for suspension). The sides have a lot of vertical travel and minimal front to back travel.