Great vid. I have a few quick questions...1) do this method still apply if you suspect a minor knock or the start of a failure? 2) some one said that if its a rod you would feel it in the clutch? is that true. 3) i assume if it was starting to fail you would be down on power?
iv owned my 2007 mazdaspeed6 for 5 years i recently way over boosted my engine and what i can assume is advanced my timing, by watching your video i learned alot iv never seen that done before im going to try it on my speed6 which runs ike shit and knocks like crazy
Nice quick tip video! When it was running was it a constant knock or was it circumstantial (under acceleration/deceleration, only at certain RPMs, etc.)?
I like the fun upbeat music while you’re grunting away, in all serious great video I am adding it to my car playlist so I can reference it if my gen Juan ever starts knocking
unfortunately thats all the wastegate could handle ..i set the spike to 27 psi.. then it would tapered to 21-20-19 at redline im currently between going external wastegate set up or with a holset then retune ill keep you posted aim for the 400whp too
Mods: EVO 3 16G (ported),EVO 02housing(ported)Injen Intake, Apexi N1 3inch turbo back, Front mount,full intercooler piping system, Greddy rs BOV , walbro 255hp, RC 1200cc injectors,BC 272's,ARP head studs,Dsmlink V3 with speed density on E85
well if you can afford a shitty srt-4, you can afford a shitty camera, right? lol jkjk, had to be said. I love cams and srt-4's are infact bad ass, specially for people that think its a tiny little neon. :P
i have a fully built head( port and polished full valve train Brian crower stage 3 cams...for a bone stock head i would recommened no more than 7k ..cuz @ 7.2k the valves seem to shatter=bad....my head is good for up to 8k but the power on my 50 trim starting droping around 6800rpms..