Have you been looking for techniques for building the scenery on your layout? Maybe you have been looking for ways you can improve the realism in your models?
I have been modeling my train layout for years. I too, searched for techniques that would allow me to build things I couldn’t find commercially - bridges that fit my exact layout needs, buildings for which there were no kits available.
I will show you everything I’ve learned. Weathering techniques that turn the bridge or building kit that everyone else has, into a realistic, one of a kind structure. How to build that trestle bridge you always wanted.
Damnnn i legit just knocked over my brand new bottle of Tamiya Cement (orange cap) after one single use, and am now left with only a handful of uses. Making that square holder but x3, thanks for the idea!
finally, someone, you, gave us all the parts and how to to make lights with those rounds reflectors lf3 and 6, ks brass 1/16 tube, smd nano leds 3v dc 20ma. thanks so much. Gary
Here is a tweak for the 90 degree sander. Before gluing down the vertical part of the sanding tool, cut a narrow groove into the horizontal piece right next to the vertical glue line. This allows you to stick sandpaper to the vertical surface and have it extend all the way down making this tool useful for very thin plastic pieces.
Question about the cleaner. Is this usable for water based acrylics only, or can it also be used for alcohol based acrylics and lacquers? I've been looking for an ultrasonic cleaner formula and this looks like it will fill the bill, but I am curious. I normally use Tamiya lacquer thinner for cleaning everything but water based acrylics in my airbrush. Thanks for the tips. Subbed.
I can tell you I too spray with Tamiya acrylics and it works for them. I couldn't tell you what happens with lacquers. I imagine if you wanted to put enough thinner in the cleaner, it would work just as well for lacquers.
That will be tough @williammarshall6544. What I would do for that case is try to find a small tube to use in its place. Evergreen sells some very small diameter plastic tubes or look around for something similar. Coffee stir sticks, the old metal ink pen refills, etc.
Thanks! The marquee is a Miller Engineering sign. You can buy them many places, like modeltrainstuff.com. The ticket booth, I scratch built from plastic.
Jigsaw Bad. Flying Paint bad. I get it, its a cheap solution if you have a jigsaw. but seriously, get A LabGenius Mini Vortex Mixer if you have the ability. They are amazing, has changed my Paint usability massively for the better. Thanks for the video. 8)
Another excellent video, thank you so much for these videos, so helpful. I'm waiting on my side walks and foundations to dry. I wanted to ask you a question if I may, how wide did you make your roads? Many thx
Glad you liked it. My layout is O Scale and I made my streets 9 in. wide for a two lane street with parallel parking on each side. Obviously, you could make it narrower if there is no parking.
@@everythingphotography2570 thank you, I'm using O scale, so this will work well for me. I was thinking 2.5" for each lane, so I wasn't too far off. Many thx
This is brilliant idea, thank you so much. I was just getting ready to use smooth it this morning and start my roads and sidewalks. I'm headed to Home Depot. Many thx!!
I have no idea if you’ll see this comment but all the videos you’ve made have been a real help to me. I recently took interest in model making, I’m 21 and I love making models. I’ve made planes, trains, cars, and a few house. I just started on a huge diorama, its 24x19 and I’m planning on making an old western town with a train passing through the station. I’ve watched most of your videos and they’ve helped me lots! Since most of the buildings are going to be wooden, I needed to learn how to do a good weathering job. I was a little surprised you hadn’t posted in a while, but I’m glad to see you still posting! Cheers from Virginia!
Very helpful. Have had my airbrush for about 8 months. Haven't used it yet partly because of the clean up process. This video breaks it down pretty good.
I have an idea for you. You could try using a caligraphy set that has a pen handle and nibs of various widths for painting the individual bricks. You could then choose a nib of the correct width and paint a brick in one stroke.
Everytime I see someone make bases for thier jars and such I think "that's so stupid and such a waste of space." Then I go back to working on my models, and knock over an opened jar. The ammo jars are the worst, so awkwardly top heavy.
I've found that after you sand the back side of paper signs, spreading white glue makes the sign stretch and it makes the sign very fragile. Now I just brush acrylic matte medium on the side of the building, lay the sign in position, and burnish it down as you described. Any excess matte medium around the sign edges disappears completely when it dries.
I've found that a helpful layout jig can be created using Legos, I use one of the flat green build plates screwed to a flat board as a base, you can make a perfect jig for almost anything with a small tub of bricks.
