so im looking at doing this swap in the future and while i know you only have the 1 radio (not sure which ram) how do you like it did you wish you got the one with more ram or would less suffice etc i always opt for the highest but 630 is alot, also for the reverse camera would you recommend a higher quality 1 than the one you bought or should i go find an oem unit in the junkyard ? and how accurate has it been.
Actually it would be impossible to remove the bumper without the underbody front shield. Also, once you have it off, you will need to trim the front piece off in order to use the rear half of the underbody shield to fill the gap left from switching to the refresh bumper.
Hey man, thanx for this video! I’m doing the same mods to my TMS P85 2014 model (swapping the hood as well). Just wondered how you solved the tow hook issue? The placement is behind the nosecone, but there is no hole in the refresh bumper
In the settings it may be set to a different Cadillac model than yours. You may need to change it to reflect your model. I believe mine was originally set to STS and as a result many features didn’t work until I switched it.
Hi 👋🏾 new subscriber here! So do the price go up from when you bought it? Because now when I clicked the link it’s closer to $500 one other thing, does it matter if I have a apple iPhone Since it’s a android radio?
Regarding the price, he may of increase his price because I’ve sent him tons of business, so he may be trying to capitalize off of that. There are a lot of other sellers with cheaper prices on the App. I would suggest checking their prices.
Yes I own a CTS v 2 door coupe and my passenger seat has ripped straight through and my driver side door button opener has broken 😢 any ideas on how to quick fix these issues? I can’t afford to replace them with the dealership
Here is a link to a replacement seat cover. I used this on my CTS before I switched to Recaro seats. It’s pretty easy but I failed to make a video. www.ebay.com/itm/263943327239?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=eIm4k4q2Qym&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=bVI1aaBLSpW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
The refresh hood would be the ideal solution because it is a direct fit and resolves the emblem/grill issue. I didn’t do the refresh hood but did resolve the issue that I posted in a separate how-to video.
I bought the same radio, and reverse camera. Followed both your videos, but I’m still getting nothing but a black screen with the reverse camera, any tips?
I spoke with the guy who manufactured it. He let me know over in Ukraine they only get Tesla’s that were in an accident and missing parts. So the designed it based off of a Tesla missing the the radiator shields and other components. Because of those missing parts, the designed it to be closer to the impact bar than it should have been. This design flaw resulted in the distance between the bumper and the impact bar not leaving enough room for the parking sensors to fit between.
Thank you for making this video. Did you have to buy a different front lower splash guard for the new refreshed bumper or we can still use the original one? Would you please post the link of where to buy the splash guard if we need too.
Thanks for watching the video. Unfortunately there is no plug and play solution for this section. I took the old splash guard and cut out the section I needed to fill the gap. It worked out well because the far backside of the splash guard connects perfectly underneath the car, so I just had to trim it to meet up with the new bumper.
Thank you for the reply. Just in case if we ever need to jump start the 12V battery, with the nosecone style we can remove the nosecone to access the negative post. With the new bumper installed, are we still able to jump the 12V battery?
Great video, just one thing around the 10min mark you mention to line up the grooves…. But my car did not have the grooves lined up when I took my OEM wheel off, it had a white line to indicate where the center point was on the wheel to match up instead, I didn’t know this and I lined it up like you said on the video and my car was driving sideways until I put it back to how it was before, I would recommend to whoever is changing their wheel to simply make sure your steering wheel is perfectly straight before replacing it and putting on the new one straight to avoid any issues. One last thing is to make sure not to over tighten the back hex screws as I almost stripped them putting the wheel on and off again…
What year and models are the front and rear emblems from? I want to swap mine but worried about the fit. Yours look like they fit nicely. Also really like the door/ghost lights. Where do I get the emblems and lights?
Anyone… I have a 2007 1500 Ram 4.7. Today it’s going to be the second time it loses power won’t go no more than 50 mph and the eventually shuts off. The first time that happen to me the Mechanic changed the fuel punk. After that by the month of that happening the truck started RMP would start idling on a stop light and jerking around 50 mph. Checking engine light was on. I took it to another mechanic and told me it was the fuel pump again 🤦🏻♂️ changed the fuel again the “check engine” light ca went off but the idling was still there and it still is. me again. The truck died on me on the freeway and the “ check gauge” light came on all of a sudden, the truck turned off on me. Tow it to the house and my dad jumpstart the truck and turned on 🤷🏻♂️
The check engine light had nothing to do with installing the CTS-V cluster. The light existed with the old cluster. The light was due to a pre-MAF air leak on the aftermarket cold air intake.
