It is a 2022 rio SX and it has non projector head lights This is the link www.ebay.com.au/itm/394159625008?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=garqPJ3XSnK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=hq0BhWCaSiW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I had a Hot tap mounted on my Jayco swan for about 7 -8 years it worked but needed to be adjusted quite often I put it down to my water supply which was mains but as I was camping on a farm there were a lot of leaks and the supply and very low pressure. I installed a pump this improved things but the flow was still not great to the pump. It work great at caravan parks and I found the fittings and shower head to be of good quality and they lasted. I am not impressed with the fittings of the Kickass and will be swapping them out for the new upgraded Joolca kit I only hope the hot water unit works better. I been renovating so have had no chance to really test it all out yet
@@Anthsv8 The main issue i had with the Joolca was getting it to produce hot water. It would never get above 34 degrees and I wasted so much water just trying to adjust it. The Kickass straight out of the box and hooked to a water source was at 40 degrees within seconds of turning it on. Truly there's no comparison! I know a lot of people swear by the Hottap maybe I was just unlucky with the unit. I'm really happy with the Kickass.
Should I say GREAT you can save money and buy something. Or MAYBE, just open it examine it and use it. Reminds me of a kid opening presents , seeing what it is and going for the next present then to the next and next.
I’m sorry not sure where your from but in Australia everything gets shortened plasterboard has been called plaster from even by my father when I was a kid. but I will try to be more vigilant with the names of things going forward 👍
I have the same problem but when I replaced the resistor it blew again. I have established the resistor is a path for mains ac when the switich at the front of the machine is pressed. When I pressed the button the resistor got very hot very quickly so there is a short somewhere. The service manual is pretty sparse but it would seem the current path is from the resistor through to the switch mode power supply and the heating elements. I suspect I have a heating element with a leakage path but still trying to work it out. I don't have a megger tester. The fault is not on the main pcb board as I have changed that. How did this fix work out for you long term?
I’m sorry I didn’t buy the gas bottle caddy as you call it it came with the BBQ but if you call the Webber store or go to their website I’m sure you should be able to find one
I have 2 of these and Its needs a diffuser/ flavorizer bars . There is too many dead spots and requires a lot of closed lid cooking because of that. Plus the flare ups.The propane piping is only a skinny circular shape that is why it has so many cooler spots and needs a diffuser. I also have the weber go anywhere propane version with a diffuser. It makes such a difference when grilling and yes its because of that diffuser. it grills far better than the traveler.
Mine didn't I'm guessing too many Ambulance chasing lawyers, they tend to ruin a lot of great products available in the rest of the world where personal responsibility and common sense still exists.
The bracket or apparatus holding the propane tank... where did you get that thing? I just bought a Weber Traveler, but no tank holder like that came with it. Is it something from Weber?
The bracket for the gas bottle came with the BBQ it was in the box if yours was not in the box I would go back to the store where you bought it and they should give you one but 1st check your manual it shows everything that should come with your BBQ
I javelin this blue one also. It's seems to be exclusive and hard to find. The traveler is tricky as well . Hard to control down the temp. You have to keep opening it
Can say I’ve had that problem with the lid close and the flame on max the temp maxs out at about 250c if I turn the heat down to just about 1/2 it will sit at around 180c with the lid closed
Great looking shishkebab there Mate! Can I ask you where you got the hanger/cradle for the 20 lb. Tank? I would definitely want that and think it’s genius. Looks like you could move the grill and bottle as one, which I cannot do with my Weber Q
And you can move the whole bbq bottle and all around but you must remove the bottle to fold the bbq down. If you watch my unbox video it shows how it folds down
I just wish Weber could equip this with the 3 burner precision control system found on the Coleman Roadtrip 285. Unfortunately Coleman surrounded that quality core with cheap crap, so I am leaning toward this Weber.
Thank you for the great info, bought the resistor so when it arrives will install. tested it is faulty. Do you have a vid on the old LG 7kg WD-80134 T it switches on but does nothing. Can you help
like you video I got a silty older LG your video open up a hole list possibility's the machine was washing & drying, did the full wash thing perfect, loaded up the next load, closed the door and nothing felt like popped a fuse, but not all the fuses I could find passed being tested, it all the same I've been going all over main PCB board, as seam the best place to start, about the same spot on the PCB, I got right next where all big stuff capacitors are located what looks like very large sized resister (actual size, not what it doing), it deep in the resin, so the colour may off a little, blue/green, the main barrel and stripes look like light blue, grey/silver/white, orange/light red on the whiter side red but not pick, coppery gold colour , any Idea what it called, I only going by that it go a small bubble it the resin right next to it? when the go bad do they vent gas or something, or am go after the wrong part, should keep looking?
I don’t think the resin would bubble if the resistor failed most likely the bubble was there from when the resin was poured. Best put a multimeter on the resister and check if you get any resistance if you get nothing then it no good I show how to do that on the video. If the resister is covered in resin then you need to rest it from the bottoms of the board where it’s soldered hope that helps
Have had mine for about 4 months. Love cooking on it but the lid likes to fly open when walking it whilst folded. Needs a sturdier locking mechanism to hold the lid down on rougher terrain like grass
There is a plastic latch that fits over a knob on the frame once you fold the unit down that red plastic latch also has a slot in it with a lock and unlock icon on it are you moving it to the lock position before you wheel it
@@Anthsv8 that's the frame lock and its fine. It's the lid lock that's trash on mine. Opens way too easily if the grates shift inside the bbq whilst moving it.
Just an FYI on your problem with the lid lock check the inside of the hood it has some steel brackets on it which when closed hold the grills inside down if those brackets are bent up for any reason they will not hold the grill down when the hood is closed and the grill can jump off it’s perch when moving
Great video mate. Out of interest could you put a griddle on either side at the same time to produce a whole length griddle? Or would the two little nobs in the middle stop that?
It comes with a 2 piece grill I brought the optional hot plate extra but was told that I could only use the hot plate on half only something to do with the heat with the hood closed
We bought the griddle hot plate extra but bought 2 and it would not work, so my husband ground down the tabs on one and it fits like a charm. There are two tabs right in the middle that keep it from fitting flush together. So my husband ground down the tabs and a little extra in that space so that they would fit together. Fits perfectly and flush. Wish it would have just come like that though.
Yes the gas bottle rack or bracket was included with the bbq. If yours didn’t have it just go back to where you brought it and they should give you one as mine was missing the gas hose when I opened the box and they just gave me one
