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From your round number estimates, it appears to not being an economically viable project. Hard to justify a 4 cylinder 16 footer approaching $75-80K. From the side, the wood appears to be dull and without character, so replacing it may be the best course if you do proceed. Now, a 17 foot CC Custom Runabout with a good 6 cylinder, and I'm all ears with wallet open.
I ended up making new wedges for my Chrysler Crown when reinstalling after the rebuild..... Good information about aligning the engine to the prop shaft vs prop shaft to the engine.....👍
Hey guys, just a suggestion. Instead of using carpet on the bunks, I put that synthetic decking on top of the bunks with the bottom grooves facing up so the water can drain. It seems to work good on my Lyman. Just thought I'd put that out there. Love your work!!!
Have a 1954 Riviera if you need another one! From Pennsylvania originally, driven to California about 40 years ago by my uncle (RIP) and stored ever since.
Actually the rebreather takes crankcase vapors away from the crankcase to be sucked into the carburetor and be reborn by the engine. It's not the exhaust gases it's crankcase vapors.
I think what we are talking about is a matter of semantics.... blowby of the rings is exhaust gas that escaped around the rings in to the crankcase... is it not?
First update video-very cool when it’s your boat. The grain and workmanship on that engine cover looks beautiful! Color for the mooring cover looks right-on. Thanks for the update!
An eleven second test video at the ramp? So what happened? Loose plank? Overheated ? Wouldn't go into gear? Steering Bell crank got jammed up? Wasn't firing on 1 and 3? And so on and so forth .......
I HAD A LOT OF CC BACK IN THE DAY. A 21 FT COBRA, CAPRI, 19 FT CAPRI ETC. SO DID MY DAD AND UNCLES. THEY WERE ALL OVER DETROIT IN THE 70'S. MY GRAND FATHER WORKED FOR CC AND ACTUALLY BUILT MY COBRA NEW. I WOULD HAVE LET IT WARM UP A LITTLE MORE BEFORE TAKIN OFF. ESPECIALLY WITH A FRESH REBUILD ON THE MOTOR. BOAT LOOKS GREAT.
Interesting, the water pump on my 1953 K95 is a brass gear Sherwood and the coupling (originally pinned, not press on) was broke into four pieces when I got the boat so I had a new coupling machined. Are these couplings a common failure point?
The fact that you explain this so easily and I finally understand torque whereas I've read multiple different things online that just confused the hell out of me, is astonishing, thank you.
