There is plastic tension guide at the front of the motor that usually breaks , then the chain runs on the bolt causing a rattle and chain stretch , the bolt can pull out of threads of the head , the bolt is under the big plug , dorman makes a update part that saves you pulling the head to repair bolt hole threads
Yup 👍🏽 PCV sucking oil and or dirty throttle-body remove air intake hose use throttle body cleaner preferably super-tech from Walmart best for the dollar
"Chains last forever" my ass. Never seen so many VVT and timing issues on a car before. My Mom's car, loaned to me for a couple of weeks while I was doing a motor swap, got the timing code, because the chain fucking jumped timing. Hate these cars with a burning passion.
I dont know ,but mine it did it for couple of time and every time on empty gas tank and then after a while it went away. I hope its not a big problem for later on
Car ended up only running for another 10k miles and then threw the timing chain off around a full rotation of the intake valves snapped every single one off... replaced motor with remanufactured motor. Only thing I found when I pulled the pan on the old motor on the engine stand was a cracked rod cap.
Looked like the phasers are moving check them both they are supposed to be stationary with the engine off only activate with oil pressure controlled by the solenoids.
I figured this out. I jumped time and put everything back in time reusing the old parts, and it did this when turning the crank. Some internet digging pointed to bad phasers. They're supposed to be locked in place when engine is off and lower rpms. If you take a box wrench, you should NOT be able to turn the camshaft independent of its phaser. If you turn the camshaft itself with A boxwrench, its phaser is supposed to turn with it. What you're seeing here is an unlocked phaser(s) turning the cam against the resistance of the valve springs. When you turn enough, the clockspring in the phaser eventually overcomes the tension of the cam going over the valve lifters and the cam springs into place, causing a temporary slack in the chain. I opened my phasers and found them both unlocked and not easily lockable, but I did it, re-timed everything and it stopped doing this on testing by hand. I need new phasers. Of course this begs the question of WHY the phasers failed in the first place. Low or blocked oil pressure, dirty oil deposits in the plunger perhaps not allowing a slick slide into the locked position, etc. This is a phaser problem. One or both of yours are unlocked. F-150 has this problem too. Yes I know this video is a bit old, but my post here is to help anyone that comes across it.
I got a piston slap when I turn my engine over I only watched the tension drop once. It also just had a rattle on start up so didn’t make that till I was turning it over by the hb to get tdc Can I solve this with out pulling the head ? Guess I’ll find out once I reset the timing but I got all the timing chain components except different cam sprockets gotta love how they added vvt my engine wasn’t suppose to even be in my car someone swapped it out
Side note, there is a difference between the left side cable and the right side cable if you have rear disc brakes. If you have rear drums then they will be the same part number for both sides.
