Nice video. I’ve read a lot about the Pulsar mostly for disabling DFM/AFM. I bought a 2022 lt trailboss a few months ago and it just happened to be built without the DFM due to the shortage a few years back. Good to know that the 500 bucks isn’t worth the other features. I agree with you on the auto start stop - it’s became muscle memory to push the button when I get into the vehicle. Nice video. And truck too!
Apparently Range Technology says this doesn't void warranty or is warranty friendly. So, would it actually be beneficial to continually remove/install the Pulsar every time you have service? Thanks for the tutorial ... very informative.
Thanks for the feedback! I personally would...but I don't have any experience with how GM dealers might react to this. My biggest concern would be, GM says you're altering the logic for how the engine is designed to operate and they void the warranty on the truck if you have issues. You could probably mount this in an inconspicuous location, and then just disconnect whenever you're having service done / reconnect afterward. But, maybe others have had different experiences.
Thanks for the feedback! The seat is one I swapped out of a F250 super duty. I have a video on the install: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5gfSLTfmx1E.html
Where did you get the suspension kit with the spindle and everything I'm looking to get my front suspension set up with control arms before installing this kit
Man, I can't say thank you enough. I was fixing to pay dang near 500 bucks just for the install into my axel tube that only had the third member in it until I watched your video a hundred times. I can't give you enough thumbs up. You are a very good instructor. Now I have a new dial indicator and a rotational torque wrench. Let's hope I never use them again but if I do, I will know how.
Details on disc brake kit: www.wilwood.com/brakekits/BrakeKitsProdFront?itemno=140-10996-DR We're using wilwood's master cylinder with this kit. You can check them out on their website above.
Did this today inspired by your video. Made a huge difference in ride quality along with replacing worn out bushings. Thanks for taking the time to document so clearly and thoroughly. All the best!
Top notch video, I’m going through the same thing, just finished the rear, went from 3:08s to 3:73s, ‘85 K10, 8.5 10 bolt, so now I’m just doing a little research before I get started on the front and this video is perfect for me so thank you for that
Nice video man. I'm still planning my first square body build (k5 blazer), and my focus is the ride quality and steering. If you don't mind can you give me your opinion with my plan so far: - leveling kit - cross steering - custom leaf spring from ORD - bilstein shocks And i believe the sway bar disconnect would be a nice addition to the plan. Thank you for your time and keep up the good work. 👍
Thank you for the feedback! Overall, this looks like a good plan. I believe the majority of the crossover steering kits I've seen require an aftermarket sway bar. If you go with ORDs crossover steering, you have to replace your stock swaybar for sure. Their aftermarket swaybar includes the disconnect kit with it, which is probably the best option. The custom leaf springs / leveling kit are pretty much one in the same. But, should greatly improve ride quality. If you're looking for the greatest improvement, ORD does make a front coilover conversion kit. But it's very expensive $$ and requires quite a bit of modification to work. Bilstein shocks are a great option. Hope this helps.
@@midatlanticcustoms I searched the coilover conversion but as you said they are too expensive and it requires a lot of modification. Thank you for your time.
Did you drill through both sides of the frame and secure from the backside or thread them in? Edit: looks like you drilled through both sides and bolt came through the back and nut on the on front?
Drilled through the frame. Grade 8 bolt, nut, flat washer and lock washer. You could orient the bolt either way. I believe I have threads pointing towards the inside of the frame rail. Hope this helps.
Just my two cents.... I can't stand plastic split loom. Seems that all the power step manufacturers go this route. Over time it gets hard, flakes and falls apart. For the money they charge for these kits the customer needs to demand better....
Agreed, it's cheap junk. Gets brittle and falls apart over time. A pain to work with. I'm planning to re-do my engine bay at some point and update all of it.
How much lift are you running? I'm running an ORD custom leaf 4" lift and wanting to tackle steering. Everyone says go crossover, but I'm mostly on road. Do you ever wish you went crossover? Or is most of the slop eliminated with the new steering gear? Great video by the way.
I've debated going crossover, but I'm only running 2.5" of lift. Seems the benefits are limited for low lift trucks. The combination of all new suspension components, this steering gear and ORDs steering brace has drastically improved the steering on this truck. But, I'm always looking for additional ways to improve the trucks on road handling. Going through everything did take the majority of the slop out of the steering, but I do believe GMs original steering setup was a poor design that's tough to get perfect
@@midatlanticcustoms Yeah, I agree with tough to perfect. From everything I gather, even crossover will introduce different problems. In my head, the only solution would be a fully electric steering rack on diff, steer by wire. Probably years away from that being a thing since steer by wire is just starting on OEMs now. I think for my 4", I will try crossover steering. Many complain about bump steer with crossover, which is why I think you went the correct route for your lift. Some crossover guys add a track bar like a stock super duty. This limits travel and adds ride stiffness, but my springs are soft so hopefully not too much. The joys of trying to make old things drive like newer things.
This car is still going through restoration, so can't speak specifically to it. But, we have installed similar wilwood products on other A-body cars without issue.
This is definitely the front set. Wilwood produces these so you can mount them on either side of the spindle, depending on your set-up. We just mounted them on the fwd side vs the rear.
@@midatlanticcustoms thanks for the quick response! I'm helping a friend, just got the instructions, had him send me links to what he ordered so i can sort rear from front. noticed the front has smaller pads but four pistons but the rear has unusually larger pads with only 2 pistons.
Yupp, pretty straightforward install. I thought the same thing about the studs, but they are okay once you torque down lug nuts. I plan to rebuild the rear end anyway and will be installing new axle shafts. Probably will get slightly longer studs on those.
@@MrRomance86 the first 100 miles you want to heat cycle the gears several times. Generally, you want to vary vehicle speed, but keep it under 60 mph (no highway driving). After 15-20 minutes of driving, shut vehicle off and let gears cool. Do this 2-3x. You typically want to limit towing, racing and hard pulls before 500 miles. Once you hit 500 miles on the gears: remove cover, drain fluid, inspect gears and refill with fresh fluid. From here, you can resume normal driving. Hope this helps.
Pretty much 79-91 not 73-87. Dana 44 was up until 78 from my understanding and from 79-91 was the gm 8.5 corporate 10 bolt. Based off the Dana 44 kinda similar axle small differences. Also in 89-91 they went from 28spline to 30spline axles like what Dana 44 had.
hi brother i have installed the amp power step in 84 blazer all it is good but not working ranning board the backfeeding i need the diagram for wiring harness switch doors thank you for interesting in this video
Hey, not sure I'm following. Is your dome light back feeding through the step ground signal? There are two prongs on your door switch, you might need to move the ground for the step to the other prong.
Very impressive. I had an 84 GMC 4x4 and didn’t think this could be done with the saddle tanks . Question, if a guy went with a blazer rear tank and removed the saddle tanks , would you be able to relocate the brackets in order to get the motor to tuck under better,or would there be no difference? I don’t anything about these running boards and was wondering if you can locate the brackets where you want on the running boards , or is it a fixed area?
Yes, you could definitely hide the motor / tuck the running boards higher if it wasn't for the saddle tanks. I considered doing the rear blazer tank for that purpose, but we had already completed an LS swap on this and reconfigured everything to support dual saddle tanks. Still really happy with how it worked out.
@@midatlanticcustoms yes it looks excellent, you did one hell of a job. My 84 had a 6” lift with 35’s , and those steps would have been so helpful. You mentioned engine. My biggest regret was not swapping the 305 out for an LS6 454. My 84 had a factory 4 speed standard , and 3.73 ratio in the diffs . I think a big block would have been perfect for fighting those tall gears
Great video....needed to see this work. I have the same new unit that I purchased for a frame up build of an 87 K/V 10. I wanted to see if you considered putting washers or shims between the unit and the frame where the unit is slightly pocketed at the bolt locations? The factory unit did not have these pockets but the Borgeson does as well as other manufacturers. Nice looking truck and thanks in advance!
Thanks for the feedback. I know exactly what you are referring to. Not completely sure what Borgeson's design consideration was for this, but I did not want to add any shims/washers. I felt like that could potentially alter the load impact area against the frame (more concentrated loads at a smaller surface area). Pretty much assuming Borgeson's design engineers did this for a reason. Just my thoughts. I have put quite a few miles on the truck with this upgrade without issue. Hope it works for you!
@@midatlanticcustoms Thank you for the response. I some what assumed the same but the fit wasn't perfect and I wondered if it was necessary. Bolting it up this evening and moving on...Thanks again!
