TurboDirect S.A - Official Distributors for Garrett Advancing Motion, BorgWarner, IHI, Mitsubishi, Continental and Holset turbochargers. We are the largest turbocharger business in South Africa, and carry stock of all the OEM brands, we offer in-house accredited and certified training courses, repairs on turbochargers, a full range of accessories and products that we design and manufacture ourselves. We have full CNC engineering in-house which we use to develop our own products.
We are the only turbocharger business in Africa with a full metallurgical laboratory in-house which specialises in forensic analysis of any material.
My f82 m4 turbos are due for replacement. Ordered s55 pure stage 2 hybrid turbos last night. Just saw this video now and cancelled my order. Are all journal bearing hybrid turbos (for all modern cars) a bad idea? I was planning to run a basic OTS map around 24psi.
Hi .. Awesome and well explained .. Please send me your email as i have had an issue with a mechanic and my vehicle involving my turbo after a full engine rebuild
Thanks for this video! Got a stock 335i N54 DCT. Goal is a RELIABLE 500HP crank. No racing/tracking, want close to OEM response as possible. 1. So are all twin upgrades flawed then, whether cheap (Chinese 17Ts) or pricey (Pure or Vargas stage 2). 2. Can you recommend a top-mount single turbo kit that isn't wildly expensive? (Doc Race pricing is insane) Cheers 🙏🏾
@@stephenpato5524 I would stay away from twins using stock bearing systems. They are not capable of handling the loads with high boost and upgraded internal rotating assemblies. No matter what the name is on them. If you run two ball bearing turbos - different story. However I would run a single larger turbo inside of you target HP - I wouldn’t go top mount - massive manifold and lots of heat in comparison the the ‘stock location’ single.
hi i have r34 gtr still factory i want to put a g30 or g35 on it to do away with the twin factory turbo's. the tuning shop is saying i will loose low end power and response if they goto single turbo. after watching lots of youtube videos i don't think i will. whats your opinion?im hoping to get around 500 whp on factory motor and keep low end power. some head room on the turbo would be nice for future engine work. but i don't want to sacrifice low end power as its just a street car.
@@freedom3469 store.turbodirect.co.za/index.php/shop/turbochargers/turbocharger-turbodirect-s-a/g3076r1-forged-detail This is what you should install - quick spool and will produce the target HP and then some. The genuine Garrett G-series is overrated and underperforming for the expensive price.
HI FROM TUSCANY ITALY. I have a Chevrolet Camaro 2.0 L turbo with a TD04L6-04H twin scroll. I want upgrade air compressor with a more big Avional rotor. Advices?
What would you suggest for a 2JZ 400-500whp maybe 600, I was looking at a G35 900 with a 1.01 rear housing. But I'm now curious what you would suggest. It's a street car with stock 6800 Redline. Cheers
There apparently isn't an option for the efr7163 aluminum housings as they are 4 bolt and the bolt and plate kits you reference in the video are only compatible with the 5 bolt housings. Any reason in particular that you see why there isn't an option for the efr7163?
I've a 3 year old car and it's been diagnosed as to much end float, splines have to much movement, does this mean it's on its way out? Please advise me what to do
What end float measurement is recorded, and how was it measured? Is there oil leakage? Heavy oil consumption? Smoke out the rear of the exhaust? Any audible sounds (whinning or screaming)? Loss of power?
@@TurboDirectSAthanks for getting back to me, the garage has told me the bearings have gone, it's a 21 plate, he doesn't know why, the turbo makes a clicking noise on idle
We experienced a failure like this, where both wheels made contact with the housings. Shaft nut was loose, but remained on the shaft, and shaft snapped behind the comp wheel. The failure happened within 10 miles of use. The turbocharger was performing normally up until it failed. What would cause almost an immediate failure like this?
@@sidenotex1336 the shaft snapped off at the shoulder as a result of contact made between the rotating assembly and the end housings. The ONLY way this contact can occur is if there is sufficient/excessive clearance in the bearing system. Causes of excessive clearance are usually a dry start up and/or particulate contamination in the oil which abnormally wears the bearing system - creating the very clearance tha allowed contact between the rotating assembly and the end housings.
@@TurboDirectSA also would like to mention that we used proprietary compressor housings machined to work with g series backplate. Can the clearance of the housings be an issue as the metals expand and contract with heat? How can I verify if we have clearance issues with the compressor housings?
Hi there 2015 GTI owner here, I recently bought this IS38 450 Turbo from you, kindly do a installation video for the blow off valve kit that comes with it🙏
@@TheSol115 does that engine rev that high? If so then so be it, if not, I would not increase the rpm limit past stock unless major work is done to the engine. The HP target is very easy to achieve and can be done with a number of different options for turbos. What is the main application for the car? (Street, circuit, drift, rally, drags?)
I rebuilt a Garrett TE-60 for my Grand National. Powder coated the compressor housing, new bearings and thrust collar, and Cerakoted the turbine housing. Bearings were proper clearance. When I took it for a test drive, the compressor nut came loose and bounced around inside like a pinball. I was so sick to my stomach. It baffles me to this day
The only way the shaft nut can loosen is if the rotating assembly during operation comes to a dead stop or sudden/immediate stop - this is usually caused by a seizure of sorts.
Appreciate your vids. Subscribed and just wandering about the clamp plate kit for the efr7163 aluminum CHRA. You sent me a part number which is indeed correct, but it is only for B2 housings. The efr7163 is a B1 housing and the part number you referenced is for a 5 bolt set up, where as the efr7163 is a 4 bolt set up. Any suggestions on a clamp plate kit for the efr7163 or as to why, with good, cause, no body offers a kit for the 4 bolt where as they offer one for the 5 bolt? Seems the aluminum is the issue here, not the size of the housing. Any and all answers and help in this regard are greatly appreciated. I should also let you know that I greatly appreciate your vids and info. We built a drag car that is is running low 4a and the knowledge you have presented helps along the way. cheers!
You will need a turbocharger capable of a mass flow rate of at least 65lb/min at the intended boost level you want to run the engine at. I would make sure that the turbo is capable of at least 25% more than your required output so that you run lower boost to make the power you want. Depending on the track you will be running on, lag will be a problem because of the high HP target you have for this engine. the EJ series motors dont make power as well as some of the other inline 4 cylinders do.
Hi Chris. I just realized I never did find the other video you referred to regarding why you should try stay away from a Twin Cooler setup. Whats the reason ?
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Can I have a contact to buy the no s200sxe on Johannesburg?
Great video and I have watched both parts! I have a g25 stage 2 powermax for the EA888 engine. I wonder if any of this compromises have been changed for that model?
At one time I serviced Garret APUs. 99HP shaft output, 450HP Pneumatic output. 40gal/hour. My interest is my old 6.5 Detroit TD. Rather high CR, 20-22? So max boost is off the table. But if I can get 1 bar of cool air charge, the fuel burned will be much better used. I have considered a modified plenum that includes a vortice generator to increase swirl into cylinders to better expose fuel droplets to oxygen. NOx could be useful. But optimizing what is being used already is a plus.
I still recommend your videos all the time! Would love more tech chats. I also still want that one compressor vid your privated back. ;) What's the chance I could get a secret email link? Hahaha.
Awesome! Spent a year deciding whether to convert stock turbo to Hybrid, finally came to a decision and I’m glad I came across your channel which led me to purchase the is38-550R about a week ago. Looking forward to getting the best out of this brilliant piece of engineering. Just a question, would the above turbo work fine on a stock map? Obviously considering that I won’t get the full benefit of the turbo until all supporting mods and tuning are done?
Thank you for the comment, using the stock map will destroy your engine. Do not do it! If you have to drive the car to a tuning shop - make sure you drive OUTSIDE OF BOOST. We recommend using DarkArtz performance for tuning, Yosh and his team know exactly how to tune these turbochargers and have done many of them successfully.
Excellent video. Technical but easily understandable. I'm planning on running 600whp on a 140i B58, would the 8474 be too big for that? In that case I'm planning on running a 8374. Thanks.
B58 will suit the 8474 black series - use the 83 turbine housing and high boost actuator - will spoil fast and linear response will be more than streetable
They say g25 660 but realistically on a Subaru ej25 06 sti it makes 425 wheel torque and about 450-470 wheel hp on e85 ethanol and full spool at 35-3700 rpm depending on load, but this g25660 is a great rally cross turbo for my car.. borg Warner are know for being the toughest turbos. I mean the Cummins guys spray the crap out of them with nitrous… and they live quite awhile
The EFR 7163 will outspool and outperform the gseries garrett By a long shot. We have done side by side comparisons and Garrett lose dismally. The RFR gamma-TI turbine wheels are mixed flow in the 7163 which makes for even better results
Hello @TurboDirectSA, I've been watching your videos to learn about turbos. I've learned quite s bit however I am still unsure in choosing turbo. I have M54B30 and so far I choose G30-660 with .83A/R. Would that be a wise choice? I will be keeping stock intake manifold with DISA so engine should be quite efficient in low rpm range. I will use it for street driving with around 450HP.
Thanks for the comment - to be honest if this was my car, would consider the BorgWarner EFR8370 - this turbo will outspool, and far outperform the G-series Garrett. Over time the G-series has disappointed many tuners, and is overrated. The EFR Gamma-TI turbine wheels are unmatched in spool, linear response and overall performance. The 8370 will produce more power earlier and for longer in the RPM range and make for a very street-able setup, with much better reliability at less cost.
Hey Chris, love the video. From the information you have given, and from from what I can see. I am thinking it is from the PCV system. The newer low tension compression rings on the piston rings causing lots of blow by. The carbon builds up in the hoses and gets broken off hitting the blade. The only reason I am saying that is I work on Turbine fan blades are not that dirty. However they have erosion.
hey Chris, happy to see you back! could you recomend me a turbo for my 2.3 vr5 engine? boost pressure 28-32psi, hp goal 650 crank, currently looking at the g30 900 .83.. looking for quick response and good usable power.
Hey - thanks for the comment. The EFR8370 is the turbo of choice for this setup - stay away from the G-series range, it is overrated, and unreliable in power delivery etc. The Gamma-TI turbine on the EFR is unmatched with spool, overall weight, and reliability. Its a much better quality product and will offer you ALOT more features than the Garrett will.
LOL - sorry im laughing, but a bent shaft will not only cause catastrophic damage to a turbocharger, but also it will never last very long at all. imbalance is casued by a poor design bearing, incorrectly balanced rotating assembly, and in the case of a ball bearing cartridge, the quality and accuracy of the ball groove grind and preload WILL cause balance issues. This cheap chinese paperweight we tested is total rubbish - not worth 10USD!
Boosted Boiz already proved you can make serious power and run a Honda in the 9s with a 100 dollar eBay gt3582. The cheap copy turbos actually are pretty reliable. And after you go through the turbo, rebuild it and pay close attention to details they can be just as good as the real deal. If it’s sized right it’s going to perform. Nitrous will blow an authentic garret appart. And a borg Warner. And even the pulsar turbo. Doesn’t matter the. Brand nitrous can tear stuff up. Since I’m not a payed sponsored racer where every millisecond counts I run the g25-660 pulsar turbo I purchased for 500 bucks. Billet wheel, made 425 ftlbs of torque and 450 hp on ethanol. And 26 psi, on my 06 sti 9:1 compression build. Best bang for the buck turbo IV ever had.
we have MANY cheap chinese paperweights come through our doors on a weekly basis, some last a week, others dont make a dyno session - NONE of them make good power at all compared to a quality product. Its easy to copy something, and its even easier to copy it incorrectly, which the chinese are fantastic at doing. If you have a shoestring budget - my advise is NOT to get into this hobby - doing something right will cost money - fact.
@@TurboDirectSA you get three options fast, reliable, and cheap. And you get to pick 2 only. And obviously with the amount of data, research and the quick change of turbo designs completely say from the gen 1 garret gt30r and the gen 3 g- series turbos. Garrett has so many compressor maps and exact sizing, spot on ar. I also understand that by going the Chinese turbo route you get two of the options fast, cheap… how reliable. Well honestly the second you actually balanced that turbo, I noticed a huge difference in just sound alone, spooled way faster, and smoother. As a precision maintenance tech, we spend 85% of our time balancing steam turbines, and any turbo out of balance won’t last at all, even a Garrett that’s been balanced. Then taken apart and re assembled with no balance is at stake of destroying itself. With that said a new Garrett is really well balanced from the factory, you should show the direct comparison to an fresh out of the box Garrett or maybe you have already and I haven’t stumbled accross it yet. And I build full blown Subaru sand cars for a living, not being detoured by money, I’m having fun and IV seen some pretty wild sand cars go for quite awhile on the g25-660 Chinese turbo, on 28 psi
@@user-nf3oq2ge3g I love that analogy - but let me correct you - you get fast, cheap, good -- pick two -- 1) fast and good = expensive. 2) Good and cheap = slow, 3) cheap and fast = poor quality -- where do you think the cheap chinese low quality product lies? I can tell you this for free -- bring any cheap Chinese turbo and put it aside an original design back to back with flow bench and dyno and real road tests and ill open your eyes into how bad the cheap stuff really is.
@@TurboDirectSA I’m not arguing Chinese shit is cheap, and in a blind study if the turbos are in a box you can pick them up and tell the difference between Garrett and China brand whatever they are. Garrett is always heavier due to the housing thickness. which is safer. Plus I can only imagine the balancing machine they are using. It’s probably an old tire machine hob jobbed together and they are trying to balance a turbo on it. Like my dad always said. Buy a China toy it will break on the way home. Buy a China car part. It will leave you and your woman stranded on the side of the road. Lol
@@user-nf3oq2ge3g Weight has nothing to do with quality at all - that is a very naive thing to say. I can give you a Garrett TR30R turbocharger which weighs 3 kgs lighter than any other turbo on the market, and its not poor quality because it weighs less. Its the actual turbo off the factory Rally team car that Loebe drove in the early 2000's. The chinese product would normally be heavier, due tyo the lack of attention to detail for example - the machining for under head contact on the flange face that mounts to the manifold face - the chinese have always neglected to machine this until recently.
There is one thing I never hear anyone mention and I'm not sure why. Maybe it's because I have it wrong, but a given A/R ratio on a small turbo would flow less air than the same A/R ratio on a larger turbo, correct? For instance, a .92 A/R on a g25-660 would flow much less than a .92 A/R on a G35-1050 ?
Hello, I am trying to Decide between the G30-900 1.06A/R T4 - G35-900 1.06A/R T4 or EFR8474 .92 IWG. I have a N54 Engine - Divided and Equal Length Manifold top Mount 6 Speed. I will be running 93 with Meth Port but will mainly be a Street car "lots of highway". I don't want something to Laggy my goal is just around 700whp maybe a tad lower. I love all the Tech of the EFR as well although not sure exactly what to choose. Would love some insight.
The EFR is light years ahead of Garrett. I have other RU-vidrs who are subscribers who have run the G-series turbos and changed to EFR after a Garrett failure. They have nothing but raving compliments about thE EFR - the GAMMA-TI turbine is unreal in its response and linearity during Highway use. It’s cheaper, better quality product and by far a more reliable bearing system and the cooling internally is way better than the Garrett g-Series product. You won’t go wrong with EFR!
Hi there. lets revive this thread!! . Very informative video that I learned a lot of facts.. Just one quick question though; could I able to swap or use my old gen1 GTX3076 turbine housing to this new GEN2 vesion GTX3076 core if ever I decided to proceed with my upgrade? thank you so much
What about using a dual inlet dual scroll flange and having a wastegate in one side that opens at a determined psi to help with boost response.? Im planning on trying this to spool my v8 a little quicker but information on this subject is scarce.
Not sure how the design looks, but closing off one side of the volute in a twin scroll setup always helps - been done many times for over 15 years already, but tricky to setup.
So it would be a single 2.5 from the header y-pipe about 4' long feeding into another Y, One side going to a 60mm wastegate with a 4or5 psi spring then reduced to 2" then into one side of turbo flange. The other side of the Y would be reduced to 2" then fed straight into the other side of turbo flange . I'm hoping this would make it spool a little quicker.
Cant picture that im afraid - simply build a adapter plate that bolt underneath the inlet flange on the turbine housing with a butterfly actuated by a low boost actuator which will block the one scroll until a certain pressure is reached, at which point the butterfly opens - keep it simple and affordable
I can’t believe you’re still responding to all the comments! I’ve been mulling over this for months, I have a Mazdaspeed6, 2.3 engine, AWD; redline of 7900 rpm and I’m shooting for 650-720whp. I’m not sure if should stick to a G30-770 and be happy with whatever it ends up making or do a G30-900 to try to actually hit the higher margin. .83 AR turbine housing for sure. It’s dumb but I’m looking for the best response possible because it’s a street car, while still making an idiotic amount of power that I won’t get bored of 😂
For the best spool versus power output - I’m sorry but Garrett should be your last choice. EFR is light years ahead! Don’t waste your time on the G-series turbos. For the HP target you aiming for the EFR8370 will do exactly what you want
@@TurboDirectSAhaha, I was gathering that from the rest of the comments. I think unfortunately anything twin scroll is off the table for me, so I have to find the best option that isn’t. Would you shill for any of the Precision turbo options? They’re highly regarded in the mazdaspeed community and suggested by the leading tuner, but I just hadn’t witnessed them perform to the same degree that I had seen Garretts
Have you guys made the video putting the 8474 and the s364 on the car like it says you guys would at the end of the video? If so can some one link me please
