I cannot change the heat on my Mira vision. Batteries have been replaced and when we try to go into the functions menu lu is displayed what do I do? Tia
Is this a suitable product if you can't use Homeboost because you're on a shared supply? Or should I be looking at Accuboost? Or are none of your products suitable for a shared supply? I live in a bungalow on an old, shared, narrow (due to corrosion) mains pipe with a flow of only 6L/m - I don't need any crazy high flow, just enough to be able to have a shower and flush a toilet at the same time, and to enable me to install a heat pump central heating system.
Hi James, great presentation. I was looking to use a mid position valve on a system that Iam going to modify and wondered your thoughts. The current system is a S plan plus and is controled with two 3rd gen nest smart stats. I would like to change this to a X plan (PDHW) with opentherm and weather comp . In order to do this I would fit a mid position valve upstream of the n/o htg valve and have the n/o port on the mid position to the down stairs circuit and the motored to either both or upstairs only. I think that this would work hydraulically, however I a struggling a bit with the wiring, especially how I can switch the opentherm (low voltage) from the different htg circuits . Volt free switching can be obtained from the nest heat links. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Jimmy. (VHPltd).
People keep confusing “losing Wi-Fi” with “losing internet”. You almost never “lose Wi-Fi”. I would want to turn off the wiser mesh network and make it use my Wi-Fi system. It’s likely the wiser mesh will interfere with themwifi spectrum like a Sonos system does too.
I installed my drayton wiser conventional kit 2, for heating and hot water, with smart thermostats in all rooms (5 in total, including the bathroom) on the 3/12/2023. I have several problems 1. I have set different room temperatures as required and at different start and end times. 2. All heating kicks in and starts warming up all rooms as soon as the earliest time set kicks in even though they have different start and finish times. I work shifts, so I don't need my room heated as and when is not in use. 3. When I chose to boost 1 room as needed, all other rooms heating kicks in even though they have different start times and temperature times. 4. Even if I reduce the temperatures to between 10 and 12 degrees to stop rooms from warming up as they're not required, they heat and warm up anyway. These problems do not help with the idea of the drayton smart heating efficiency of the heating system ideas. Eg. I needed to boost only my bedroom at night after work, but the whole heating system kicked in while other people were sleeping, which is not required. These problems have rather caused my bills to increase instead of decreasing for efficiency and cost. I can't boost a single room without all the other heating kicking in. Please, I would appreciate it if you could help rectify all these inefficiency problems.
I have an existing Drayton LP522 to control a standard central heating and hot water gas boiler system. There are two thermostats - one in the lounge and one in the hall. These operate in a ‘preferred room’ mode so the lounge is the priority area and is set to ~19C while the hall unit is set at ~17C. My son recommended the Wiser 3 channel system as he thought I had two heating zones whereas I only have one heating zone plus hot water tank system. Can I use the 3 channel unit in the simpler 2 channel mode. The pack came with two smart thermostats.
Tried one of these and after the initial setup of the hubr, it wouldn't let me connect to the hub, just sat there doing nothing. So gave it a few hours to see if it was updating but still no connection. So uninstalled it and took it back to screwfix for a refund. Shame as I liked the potential of the system.
Hi, is the floor membrane and wall membrane the same thing? Seen kits listed as either options, assuming only difference in kits is the accessories i.e corners
3 years ago, and not one thumbs up, the miserable bar stewards... thanks for this my friend, are you still using the roman compact? I'm thinking about one but not sure which one, looking at this simply because it's the cheaper option... from rothenbeger that surprises me
A good down to earth presentation, which answered a few questions. I tried calling 3 times earlier today, every time I keyed the extension the call ended. Do you not talk to the colony out here in NZ😉? Or are you flat out with the Christmas rush?
Why isn’t it compatible with Apple Home Kit please? Are you planning on adding it any time soon? If you do, would it be just a software/firmware update or would it be a hardware change?
Hey great video.. few things, what is your advice if you have to screw a toilet to the floor and it has the water guard beneath it? Also do you have any videos on installing it over pipes that are sticking out
Hi, Obviously screwing through the membrane is going to puncture it so the best thing you could do in this situation would be to pre determin your holes and squirt the jointing compound into the holes befor screwing the screw in, this will backfil the hole and seal it up as you screw it in, as far as pipe entries, it would be worth fitting a a square of the joininting tape with a hole for your pipe over the pipe before connecting it allow a little of the tape to bunch up the pipe and then when you fit the main sheet over the top you can cut a slit in it as you would if you were fitting a carpet over it and finish the slit with the joint compound(any cuts in the main sheet should always have a piece of the jointing tape beneath it.) please visit the website for the fitting guide to give a better idea of methods.
The Evohome app is terrible. It’s like it was written in the 90s. It’s a shame Honeywell have left it to rot without bringing it into the 21st century. Yeh. As this vid is all about heat pumps, it’s strange it’s not in the title. The light-switch analogy at 36:30 is utterly misleading. With light switches, you walk in the house and turn on the lights you need - Evohome CANNOT do this so I’m not sure why this analogy was used. For Evohome to do this, all TRVs must be set to zero (well 5C) when you walk into the room. You would then have to go to the app/controller and turn on the TRV or TRVs for that room. If the TRVs are not programmed to be at 5C min, then they all have to be manually turned down. The only way for the system to conform to the light switch analogy is if the system is always set to 5C. Yeh. I have 14 Evohome-controlled rads in 12 zones. It’s a great system let down by a very poor app.
The app is fine, it does what it needs to do which is allowing one to change temperature of a room from a location outside your house. Sure, it could give us all kind of detailed options/settings as are available on the central display and all kind of graphs showing which room is using how much heating, but who needs that when away from home. BTW, there were no apps in the '90's anyway :-) The light switch analogy is fine too. It helps to explain to some people that having only one thermostat in a house is rather weird. Worked for me almost everytime when explaining Evohome. Sure he could have taken a bit more time to explain it.
Fitted Wiser system and connected to Baxi 600 boiler on opentherm and controls the heating with no issues, very impressed with how the controller keeps the boiler running in the efficient condensing mode especially when using the Wiser thermostatic radiator valves. The downside is that the hot water temperature can't be altered and defaults to max temp (60 degrees) with the front panel controls being effectively disabled.
Exactly my issue when reseaching to puchase. Come on wiser, when will a fix happen Baxi combi in opentherm re hot water set temperature? My current Nest stat can do it.
Hi, I have an oil fired boiler. I can turn the rads on upstairs and downstairs separately and also the hot water separately. What would I need to keep the 3 separate functions but to make them voice controlled. Please
