I am just a guy from Alaska who happens to like fixing things - whether it be on cars, trucks, motorcycles, etc. In a previous profession, I was a journeyman mechanic working on: ground support equipment, heavy equipment, emergency backup generators, automobiles and other light equipment. I am also a firearms enthusiast, especially historic firearms like the ones used in major conflicts such as WWII. There is not a week that goes by where I don't fix something, or go to the range and hone my shooting skills. I find shooting to be a fun and challenging skill to have. I hope you enjoy my videos and find something useful or at least something entertaining in them. Please feel free to drop me a line and let me know if there's anything I can post that could help you.
Thanks for the video, like others I never knew this was a problem until I saw your video! It's worth mentionning that the cause could also be bad valve steam seals, which you should be able to test with an exhaust gas tester.
Excellent videos. I was search has my husband and I have a 1999 Dodge Dakota needing to change ours out. He wanted a video to assist him. Yours came up and I think even I could help in the process. Thank you for making an informed video.
The vibration dampener unscrews from the bolt so you can put a 6pt socket on it. The 'V.D.' has a rubber plug with a torx hole inside or vise grips, luckily mine wasn't tight.
No need to push out pins unless they have noticeable wear and only need back it out of the way on one side. New bushings and washer easily slide under the untouched pin. Also was a good time to pour an additional 1/2 quart or so of ATF in the opening.
Great video. Nice details. Might want to look into Amsoil (I do not work for them). Also, I am not a specialist. But your oil looks a little too dark. Did you wait for 10k? I change mine at about 5-6k (miles). Many people speak against waiting to change the oil at the recommended 10k miles interval. Good luck! I have the N63.
I dont know why im watching this. I know how to do the job as ive done it on other cars and my 850 once before but i gotta say i appreciate how thorough you are and you’ve got a good steady calm voice! Big props!
Looking through my car manual in gages and instruments and then to radio and it says turn key to position 1 I found the code it was written by hand on that page.
PRO TIP: The vibration dampener is actually THREADED onto the caliper bolt IN OTHER WORDS: If you dont have the grippy/grooved/serated wrench referenced in the video, put a pair of vice-grips on the dampener neck (just past the 10mm bolt head) and unscrew the dampener off the caliper bolt. Now you can just use a deep 10mm socket on the bolt head. ~*~*~ YOU'RE WELCOME! ~*~*~
my local mechanic quoted a $250 fee for this very service on my 2003 S claiming the process required a separate pumping device to replenish the fluid and is less than a simple old-school fluid drain. This seemed less than practicable. I balked and am glad I did.
I didn’t mention it in the video, but all my jewelry screwdrivers are JIS drivers, and so are most of the “+” style screwdrivers in my toolbox in the shop. Phillips screws were flawed from the get go, and I have no place for a self-stripping fastener in my life. Thankfully the Japanese were brilliant and their JIS drivers work better on Phillips screws than Phillips drivers do.
You might be able to find some similar ones on Amazon, E-Z Lok inserts. You’ll have to get a different size bolt (SAE instead of metric) most likely with these inserts. I haven’t found any of the original style yet.
@@AKJeeper yea I was just looking on Amazon typed in metric nutcert and bunch of kits come out. I got COP #3 in 2001 expy 5.4l 2valve notorious spark plug spitters. Seems this is the way to go. Question I have to ask It’s a handy down car so previous owner stripped the head off the bolt that sits the COP on the manifold same bolt your inserting in your video. Any idea what I could do? I’ve tried the pressure pliers just won’t grip to small and needle nose won’t work either. I’ve seen welders, weld a nut bring it right out but I don’t have any welding tools whatsoever.
My channel is geared more toward a novice. It isn’t absolutely necessary, but sure makes it a lot easier for someone to maneuver the filter in there and see what they’re doing.
I bought my 2002 around 10 years ago now.. It didn't have a bed and It had 170k miles just like this one.. and I only paid 7500 for it. Best investment I've ever made.. Such a great truck
Great video! - In the video I just saw that there is storage under the steering wheel too! I just got the car and it didn't take me more than a week to get driven nuts by this broken door brake!
Tolong saya ganti kampas dan saya membuka motornya dari kalipernya sebelum mengepres lalu setelah pemasangan DTC EPB nya nyala terus sebelah kiri apa yang salah dan bagaimana memperbaiki nya agar mode service tidak menyala terus
Thank you so much for making this video, it save me a major headache today,didn’t realize the clips are different on a front wheel drive vs the all wheel drive.
On my 2012 f150 with the key on truck not running it click click clicks. When truck is running driving it does the same thing but will not blow cold air out just hot air
The actuator in this video does not control temperature, it only controls where the air comes out (floor, dash vents, defrost vents). Depending on the configuration of your truck, there could be one or two actuators that control the temperature. I suspect that you’re hearing the temperature actuator(s) clicking.
Is that the correct orintation of the resistor for the install? Myn is also stuck (locked in Maybe) sorta diagnal with the plug side closer to the driver. Just thought id check with you? :) thanks again.
The resistor can “lock” in several directions. It should be just fine so long as the electrical connector has the space to click in, and that the resistor is truly locked in.
