Looking for your input ... I see you have Linda (spelling???) completely encased with no ventilation. I take it that this is okay to do because both the inlet and outlet are outside the enclosure and the motors are cooled with just the air passing through. No further ventilation is needed then. Do I have this correct?
Good question. The door and holes for the exhaust tubes have a few gaps. That said it does get a little warm in there when it’s on for extended periods and I’ve recently been thinking about adding a passive vent to the side to help the warm air escape more quickly.
Thanks much for this video. Had to realign my saw after both the fence and blade got out of square and had to figure out how to do it again. Previous attempts were watching dwe745 videos and trying to adapt them.
@@CaptainofmyShed First like when you posted. The yes baby yeah is my Austin Powers Thing, watched the movies a little while back. My wife said its been enough now, but you know.......it sticks.
One of the Amazon reviews I read stated: "You cannot use a thin blade or any other type of blade because the riving knife is too thick. And for beginner DIYers who want to try their hand at building furniture or other fun wood projects, you will quickly learn that you are not able to have the clean/precise cuts that you need which can be very frustrating. And unfortunately, you don’t find out until it’s time to switch out the blade and it’s too late to return to the store. You will not be able to find a tooth count higher than 40 for this blade, so again - extremely limiting." Can anyone confirm or deny, especially the part about no higher than 40 tooth count blade availability?
I haven’t looked into different blades for this saw but I never felt that I needed anything more on this saw. For finer projects I would not cut to final dimension with any tablesaw. Better to cut close and finish with a plane. That said I’m not a professional so maybe someone has different/better advice.
Great detailed analysis, and your video persona has a good level of self deprecation! Denis from Hooked on Wood does a similar throat plate alteration, to his usual super high standards! Carry on the good work 👍🏻
I’ve seen and heard both in use. I think you wouldn’t be disappointed with the Dewalt but it is much louder in operation, plus you don’t have the planer bed which I probably use more than the thicknesser. The Dewalt is obviously much more compact so maybe better for a small shop or if you’re planning on taking it to site or just taking it outside to use.
@CaptainofmyShed . Thanks for reply. There is no doubt the Axminster looks all-round better. The only disappointment I see is the planing width is only 240mm. The dewalt seems to be over 300 .
That is true and I don’t think you’ll be disappointed with the Dewalt. The finish is great and it seems to be a workhorse. I rarely need to plane wider than 240mm and if I do need to I can find a work around. Depends what the majority of your work is.
The outlet was 100mm. The key is to block up all holes except for around the blade. So if you have a zero clearance throat plate, then make sure there are some holes in it to aspirate the system.
Great review thanks. I've got this machine and agree with your overall assessment of it. The only real issue I have is with the dust extraction. I've got a triple motor camvac and it's still leaving a lot of chips on the bed when jointing or planing. Have you made any changes to yours to improve the dust extraction at all? It seems to me that the dust collection port (yellow metal section) is a long way away from the actual cutting head.
I agree. This is an issue I have seen on several brands similar machines. Rag n bone Brown has made some extraction upgrades to his machine which is identical in many ways. Ultimately though, it doesn’t bother me as the chips remain in one spot and are easily cleaned up. It would be different if it was firing them all over the shop. Glad you like the review.
Well done videos, thought out with accurate information and very thorough. So Cheers and thank you! I have had the DWE7491 going on year 4 and yes minimal binding on the height adjustment lead screw but I think the key is to not let it go when you first notice and tend to it as part of regular maintenance and adjustments. My saw has been built-in into my workbench so a bit awkward to clean out but with access ports, i'm in the cavity of the under carriage almost daily with a shop vac and a bit of compressed air since my shop is in the basement of my house and dust control is paramount. One thing I would add and I wish I had done so when I first got the saw, is to add a " soft start " module where Dewalt has failed in design but more than likely with intent. It's easier on the bearings, brushes, armature and critical adjustments not get the immediate " jerk " start. I used a " Hitachi C10Rj " ( but there are several others ) I purchased on Amazon for about $10 CAD. Simple to install and the module/heat sink fits into the Dewalt switch box housing. Of course some will say " Warranty " , I say hog wash, I installed it with the same quick connects that were already in the switch box. A worthwhile upgrade. Adding a longer aluminum extrusion fence onto the existing also really ups the capabilities of this saw closer to a fixed cabinet saw plus gets rid of any "out of flat " areas on the existing thin aluminum fence extrusion...
Glad you’re enjoying the Dewalt. I thought it was a great small workshop solution and if maintained as you say, can last a long time. Thanks for the comment.
I believe you should be able to unscrew the regular hose from the connector to the r15 and screw the cen Tec in. Not tried though. It may be glued in though.
Adjusting the table was the one thing I had to do after following the exact same method as you…only took me 6 months or so to realise that is was even possible to move the table 😩 rookie error! You will possibly get even better results by moving the blade supports down much closer to the timber.
I set mine up last week and aligning the table was probably the most frustrating 30 mins of my life. I believe the bandsaw buddy saved even more frustration though. Just wish I'd bought a stud/metal detector as well, I might have not hit that snapped screw imbedded in the wood, new blade on order.
I learned how to fold a bandsaw blade over 55 years ago. Here's a video of Stumpy Nubs folding a bandsaw blade the same way I've done it; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Du-ypMdnmUw.html. I do enjoy your videos -- keep up the good work!
No joke, i was doing exact the same yesterday evening. 3 hours and 4 bandaids later ( gloves good tip) straight as a razor. Wish i saw youre video 1 day sooner, would at least have saved me 1 hour and two bandaids. Tnx again!
Hi. It has a 350w induction motor. It’s fine for its size but there are times Id like something a bit more powerful. It gets me by and size and cost are ideal.
Would it be relatively easy to remove the tables (and any other parts) from this machine for easier transportation? (It's a long uneven path to my workshop). Cheers
Yeah I believe so but you may want to reset the tables when finally in place. I dont think the way I moved it into the workshop was ideal and will take it apart if/when I move again.
Thank you thats great info. As a CenTec owner/user do you know if there is a way to connect the hose to the Henry Vacuum Cleaner? Thanks in advance 🙂👍 brilliant content
Rings, Watches and loose jumpers/Hoodies have all taken people into machines... As a machinist in the Aircraft Industry for many years, I have seen all sorts of injury. Play Safe(r)... Bob (Weston super Mare)
I hear you Rob. And you’re right that all these things present a risk. I’ll be doing a video on safety at some point. One of the things worth mentioning though is although you should be aware of the risks and the possible injury. It’s ultimately up to the user whether they take those risks. This does mean that you have to accept that you’re solely to blame if/when something goes wrong.
If a chisel is hollow ground, I only make sure the edges are flat, because the hollow reduces friction and only the edges contact the surface and are reference surfaces.
Yeah understood. I don’t think I demonstrated very well in this video. Ideally I would have just flattened the first 10mm back from the tip or so to give me a good reference face but the hollow grind was a bit off on some of these giving a low spot where there shouldn’t be one and so I had to keep working to get them even. They’ve been working beautifully since though.
I have a 7485. Had same problem with raising blade. You need to dry lubricate not only the threaded post that cranks, but also the guide bar on the other side of the motor as well. Keep that clean and lubed on a regular basis. I've had no problems since.
I mostly subscribe to UK English, however I am a computer engineer and as such I think rooting is what was horrifically demonstrated in Stanley Kubrick's Clockwork Orange and what you did was routing :-D keep the ridiculous moustache :-)
If you have a metalwork lathe & tools they would be simple enough to turn up. Possibly in other materials, like nylon or perspex - depending on what's in your materials bin.
Hi Mike, a good addition to the workbench, i was watching Mark from Start making he was talking about these bench dogs last Saturday and he is happy with them. Al ways nice to hear some one else talking about the same product getting there view on it. Good video catch you soon, Take care
Hi, I have a similar set up. I feel like the 2 motor version lacks a little bit of power for the longer pipes. Have to adjust it and seal up the table saw like you. I think you will use your smaller dust extractor for the top of your table saw dust extraction. I split up the pipe I use from the 2 motor version I think it is the reason for the lack of power.
Yep my thoughts exactly. For me at least this is a more versatile option. Im rarely using more than 2 of the dog holes at any one time and usually I want different options from a standard dog so this makes sense coupled with the various hold downs, dogs and clamps I might be using.
I have been looking at these as I am rebuilding the work surfaces in my tiny row boat size shed, I am going to do away with the tracks and use dogs and the match fit system, I am hoping it just simplifies everything and is easy to knock up jigs and the like quickly. Keep doing these videos mate, I love them and have watched a few a good many times now!
@@lurcherino, glad you’re enjoying the channel. There’s plenty more to come. My problem is, too many ideas and not enough time. I think the way Peter Millard has his MFT and tracksaw set up is ideal for a small workshop. Aside from the micro jig slots which he says collect all manner of small parts and crap.
The anti-static version is some kind of witchcraft and I'm really happy with it. I've written on the coloured relief rings which tools each adapter fits.
