Could someone confirm what material is used on the speaker driver? Is it paper cone or Kevlar or any other material? @Alex Yurchenko, Why does this information is not available even in Marshall sites?
Hi Alex Great video, I know this is an old video so you may not see this question, however I was wondering, if I took one of these apart like you have in your video, could I take some cables from my head unit in my vehicle and tap into the speaker cables inside the speaker to make this play with my in car stereo? Would love if you could shed any knowledge on this
You can simply use an inverter to power the speaker from the car, and head units have rca output usually especially aftermarket, so that can go in the back of the speaker since it has rca input. As for signal path internally, I have not looked into that.
It will sum stereo songs to mono. But to get true stereo you need two of them and the app allows you to split the channels up properly. Or you can run thru a mixer and pan the outputs.
I am not sure I do not have a turntable to test it out with either the 3.5mm jack or the RCA input. I did a basic test and intercepted the signal from the 3.5 mm output of a standard mixer. When the volume knob was set to the 7th mark on the Stanmore the output was acceptable for listening close to the speaker then when you turn it to 10 it's plenty loud. The signal coming from my mixer was set to the max but without clipping. This 3.5 mm input signal playing a song averaged around 2.6 volts peak-to-peak. And the amplitude peaking around 1.6 volts and averaging around 500 millivolts. Then without changing knob positions a 1kHz sine wave fed into the speaker through the 3.5 mm jack with a peak-to-peak voltage of 792 millivolts (during drums parts which are usually loudest) was enough to allow me to hear the tone through the Marshall speaker. It was audible without being piercingly loud up close. And still could be heard from like 20 ft away indoors. Lastly a more technical test. I measured 1.4 volts peak-to-peak at the 3.5 mm input side playing a constant 200Hz test sine tone. At the woofer output terminals (speaker disconnected) the output measured at 4.72 volts peak to peak. The volume was at the 7th mark. The output at the woofer terminals should be higher I believe and connecting the probe caused the input 3.5 mm cable to heat up, so I aborted the test there. Gain is ~ 3.28(10.31159 dB) at volume 7 assuming my measurement was correct. I hope this helps! :)
Hi. I really appreciate how you did this review. The rest of them are just a walk through specs and some music. You tested also the range, you showed us what is inside. Great work! It's obvious that you have electronics knowledge, as you touched the voltage topics. When I see some folks doing reviews and not even knowing what voltage is.. I had a pair of speakers damaged by voltage fluctuation, so this topic is important. I ended up buying a voltage regulator, as the voltage provider from my area told the fluctuations are in the acceptable range. Now I want to buy new speakers and I think something from Marshall will suit my needs. You say you are also passionate about car work. Let me ask you for an idea: I want to buy a second hand car seat (something with leader, good quality) and fix it to a base with wheels, so that I make a desk chair out of it. My plan is to make use of the seat buttons, so that I can set it up/down, front/back and adjust the lumbar support (maybe also heating?), exactly as I would do in a car. What do you think, how should I power up this chair? I don't want to keep a car battery next to it. Should I buy a voltage converter and use the chair plugged in a wall socket? I'm not sure how many amps it will require. Thank you!
Hi veveTM, Thanks for the feedback, I do enjoy custom projects that save money. Plus, it always a great learning experience. As for your car seat project, for hooking up power to it, if you are buying second hand you will not be able to run experiments to find stuff out inside a car. The best you can do is make a educated guess or buy a DC power supply with amps and voltage monitoring and hook it up to the power connectors. Then note what is the current draw while operating the motors. Try to run all the motors at once to find the max current draw if the seat controls support that. There are several types of motors like DC, Stepper, Servo etc., so it is worth finding out what is installed. Be careful of over voltage and over current and polarity. I would first do research or trace the circuit to obtain the schematic of the car seat and what the components on it are, then look up the datasheets if possible. If you want to leave it plugged in to the house, then you need to convert 120 VAC or your wall outlet voltage into I am assuming around 12 - 14.4 VDC (most car electronics I dealt with ran off of that...). You can buy a complete pre-built power supply that outputs the voltage you need and current with a bit of overhead so you are not pushing it to its limit all the time. Also, you can build your own power supply. I am not an expert in PSU design, but you need to use a full bridge rectifier somewhere in the circuit for converting AC to DC, then reduce voltage somewhere in the circuit to suit your needs. It is much safer to just buy a pre-built power supply that is more than adequate for your needs as mistakes can lead to fires property damage or you being electrocuted. Also, in the event of an electrical failure you need to make sure there are fuses)/ground protection installed. I am sure you know the risks. Thanks, best of luck with your project i hope you figure it out. :)
