Welcome to Fullerton Woodworks! My name is Daniel, and I'm a woodworking enthusiast with a passion for creating beautiful and functional wood products. On this channel, I'll be sharing my latest projects, offering tips and techniques for woodworkers of all skill levels, and providing a glimpse into my creative process. Whether you're a seasoned pro or just starting out, I invite you to join me on my woodworking journey and learn alongside me. Don't forget to subscribe and hit the notification bell to stay up-to-date on all my latest videos!
Great vid! Exactly what I need. I bought the Moxon kit directly from Taylor Toolworks, same that you used here (your Amazon link is "currently unavailable"). The instructions that came with my kit are very poor however. Other videos show how to make a portable version with the Moxon clamped to the worktop. I want mine mounted permanently to the workbench like yours. I'll be building mine later today!
I've been thinking of buying a bench vise that bolts to the top of the bench but this looks better and doesn't get in the way of your work area. Now sharpen those chisels. lol. I think I have one fairly sharp chisel left. Well done video even I could understand how to make the vise.
Well built, but WOW, bro, completely unnecessary. That torsion box reduces the planer's cut capacity by half. My 3/4" melamine sled gives me a dead-flat surface every time.
great job man. I wish u had slowed thing down a little bit or made the video maybe 10-15mins long. U could've fitted more of the work involved into it then but It's ur channel my bro and I do lover the vise. I have some 16mm threaded rod in my shop. That'd be fine for a Moxon Vise, would it?? I have a small vise to put on my bench sitting in a box in my shop but I really like th4e look and feel of these bigger Moxon Vises. The hold begger boards too which is always a huge bonus my friend. Really like those locking nuts u use. What are they called? Is there a name for them? Thanks for uploading this video my bro. Keep up the great work.
Hey! Nice jig. Could you help me understand why is is not more convenient (or safe) to do it without a jig by doing crosscuts on the four sides? Thanks!
Love the subtle bevels on the face. Great grain selection. Walnut for the splines I think? You need a 1/8 rip blade that is true flat tooth grind. Not ATB or triple chip. 50 USD Freud one is good in my experience.
Thank you for the kind words! I agree, a flat tooth grind blade definitely would have left a slightly cleaner/flatter looking cut for the splines. Ironically I bought that exact blade a few weeks later and it’s been great. Cheers!
The piece isn’t flat because the sled is flat…it’s flat because it was held in a static position while going through the planer. Granted the flatter the sled the less material you will need to remove from the stock to get the stock nice and flat.
@@fullertonwoodworks Yes but if the torsion box becomes warped in storage, that is transferred to the workpiece. I would not advise its stored leaning against the wall.
MDF is absolutely dimensionally stable and stays very flat when you don’t subject it to sagging or moisture. It doesn’t need strength in this application, so I don’t see why it would be a bad choice for this project. Feel free to use any sheet good you prefer, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with MDF here.
Overall, not really to be honest. If you’re getting snipe due to the board itself not being flat then I suppose it could help there, but I find snipe is pretty much impossible to avoid completely (at least on consumer grade planers like this one).
Hi there! The width is just shy of 13" as you mentioned, because that's the width capacity of my planer. The length is roughly 40", but of course it can be as long or short as you want. Some people make multiple planer sleds of different lengths for convenience sake. Cheers!
Just a thought but I don’t think all those pocket screws were necessary. The end result with a good glue up with that huge wood matrix would’ve ended in the same results.
Exactly! A planer (for the most part) makes things parallel, not flat. So if you send a cupped board into the planer, you get a cupped board out - the cup is just identical on both faces by the end. However if you shim the board to make it flat, you can get the other side perfectly flat by using the shimmed side as a flat reference. This is why the sled is handy - you can shim something onto it, then send the whole thing through.
It's not so much an issue of the planer not making contact with the wood or not pushing down on it - the issue is that a planer does not make things flat, but rather parallel. So if you send a board through with a big cup in it, the two faces will just end up with parallel, cupped shapes. The purpose of the sled is to allow you to shim one side flat so it serves as a reference, and then your opposite face will be made parallel to it - making one side flat. Then you can flip the board over and run it through without the sled to end up with two flat, parallel faces.
It’s definitely worth being safer than sorry if you’re concerned about this! However to be honest, I think as long as the screws are buried well within what you’re working with as they are here, you’d have to mess up pretty bad to hit them - at which point you probably have a more catastrophic issue than hitting screws.
@@fullertonwoodworks You are right. It is like with every safetytipp. If you know what you shouldn't do and why, you could work around an do the "wrong" things with more care. But I think all kind of "tutorial" should at least inform about the dont's, before breaking the "rules". Not all people who repeat this are aware. Keep up the good work!
You need several coats of poly on both sides of the MDF if you don't want it to move from humidity changes. Probably a good idea for the plywood to be finished as well.
I hope its relatively dry in your shop. Cause if you have high humidity. That MDF is likely to swell inconsistently over time. I won't mention how i know this :D
Good point for sure! Fortunately my shop is climate controlled so moisture isn’t a huge issue. The plywood strips between the two MDF sheets also help to keep everything from warping.
@@fullertonwoodworks yeah i am not so lucky at this point... I really wish that was the case. Here it sits at about 70-80% humidity year round. Since i am on the coast. I find mdf surfaces swell in a matter of days. Requiring a facing cut before use.
I've built something similar recently, but with plywood on the faces, instead of mdf. Do you think that it is also subject to swelling (enough that it would be an issues)?
@@audetnicolas in my experience plywood is generally more stable. it might swell small amount, over time, But otherwise its very stable, unless left in water for a extended period. Both mdf and plywood are more stable if sealed. Though mdf will take a good deal of finish to seal, as its quite porous and spongy to most finishes. So your best burnishing the surfaces first.
None taken, great question! Honestly, I wanted something a bit more durable than melamine and also I had a ton of leftover MDF on hand and thought this would be a fun project. You could absolutely use melamine too!
Just what I need, right now! I've been struggling to straighten a tick board to use as a base for other boards, but it is so hard to get it perfectly flat!
