Do you also still have the link to the cargo light with the on/off switch from AliExpress?

You have to take your door panel off for the driver side, and you have to trace power from the switch that turns your lights on using a multimeter, It's pretty easy. You set your multimeter to volts, probe the chassis with ground, put your red probe on one of the pins of the wiring harness that goes to the window switches and turn your lights on if you get a voltage when you turn your lights on. You know you've got the right wire to tap into

@@tyrian869 ok I was able to do it perfectly on the driver's side and the passenger's side.

@@carlosarchila4621 nicely done ✅

@@tyrian869 What I need is to connect the passenger one. I can't find a way to connect it because I have direct light, I don't have the drl.

@@carlosarchila4621 oh you're saying yours didn't come with three wires?

I actually opted for the sixth element motor pitch Mount and I love it, but the real performance was the shifter x short shifter that has to be my favorite so far Also, I need to go back to the dyno now that my tune is pretty much done for now, to see what gains I got from that

I need to make a part two. I think it's time I'm way overdue 😂

I've never owned a Hyundai, However I did It because I think it's awesome, and because I just wanna be different then everyone else also it can be made any color this is sort of a how to for those who had no idea, so for the girls they may want pink you know? 😉 I offer service

@@tyrian869 TBH the more it looks different the more it looks the same. Personally i think Toyota cheapped out by using blue LEDs instead of white ones (or even green ones), since the a long lasting blue LED is cheap to manufacture, while it's harder to get a constant pure white LED(white white, not 6500k or whatever). But i guess everyone has to learn these things somewhere, though it would be better if we all learned it the "t10 sidemarker lights" way.

@@eivis13 well they're not actually blue. They're ice blue sort of a mix between white and blue, but the OEM lights were white. Ice blue color to me is a very special color that proved also to be very difficult to find, to me it's special especially special since I was able to reproduce the exact color I was hoping for by working with a manufacturer, It's all just a personalized theme really, if white suits your fancy then keep it white.

@@eivis13 Tell me about these side markers

@@tyrian869 in the US side marker lights usually have an orange tint. In Europe there are different rules, usually a white one is allowed everywhere, sometimes other colors, others only red and blue are forbidden (police, ambulance, firehouse colors). Again, i've noticed that the leds with a color rating of 6000k or higher usually look out of spec cheep (and usually they're so cheap that regular halogen bulbs outlast them). Personally i prefer a color between 3500-5500k (more on the latter side) since my car is gloss black and those colors are also less intrusive/annoying to the eye. As per IceBlue i'd say you chose a very deep color, since IceBlue is usually considered as more of a cyan color (think yaris or prius dash minus some green).

I'm working on it man. I got more coming. Hopefully they'll be the right ones as this color is very difficult to match, Episode 2 is live with an explanation

@@tyrian869 Alright , Looking forward for the update. Thanks again

@@bohbot4930 So these match the window switches I bought that already had the ice blue LEDS installed to them already (www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832578555113.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.27.72cc1802wB9Sbv&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa)

@tyrian869 Thank You so much, for your help and sharing your experience . It's a tough project to do , which requires experience , knowledge, patience and specific equipment which all you got.

RU-vid channel @Carstomit I purchased it from this individual who demonstrates on their RU-vid channel how to do this modification. We communicated through email.

I have to make another video and give credit where credit is due, for the folding mirrors, I reached out to another RU-vidr carstomit he put together a plug and play kit you can buy directly from him, all the electronics are pretty much drop in as the placeholders are already there, you just have to know how to take the assembly of the mirror housing apart. I'll put a link to his channel in my description, He's done quite a few mods that I have followed closely and are actually helping him with one in regards to the interior lighting. As far as the wheel spacers, sure, I'll put a link in the description of those I followed another RU-vidr called Jimsgaragetoys, he mentions the size of the spacers he used again credit to him but I went with both of the same brand whereas he went with two different brands, I also had to use different lug nuts from AutoZone because the provided ones weren't compatible for some reason and I made a mention on the Amazon comments about that. I'll go ahead and drop the links Just give me some time to populate them.

Okay look at the description I've updated the links and info, fronts were 15mm and rears were 25mm, and at the end of the video I link the other channels that helped in figuring this out.

Very informative video, can you explain how you connected the 3rd wire in the synchronous side mirror . The 3rd wire is linked to which wire? Thank You . It's the white wire it goes to accessory , do you remember where you connected it. I believe it's the daytime running lights. It's the white light.

​@@bohbot4930 You have to trace it, Its very easy, Take your multi meter set it voltage DC and while probing each pin on the connector going to your door controls referenced to ground while you switch your running lights on or off, you should see this reflect on the multi meter as a switched 12v source

@tyrian869 Alright 👍, Thanks for the info

I think so let me see, I've been away from this for a while, and are gonna start back making videos again soon. I'll see if it's disabled and reenable it if that's the case.

@@tyrian869 thanks!

@@tyrian869 I would greatly appreciate it!

Just use the trim buttons on your controller and in the outputs page scroll to the bottom and click trims => subtrim

@@Archany Thanks for the help. I tried to use the trim buttons but nothing happened. Would you be willing to share your eepe setp file.

If i didn't have such a hard time focusing, i could bust out videos out like crazy probably, i try and do my best with tags, so people can find, I need to categorize my videos into groups to i think, I'm so disorganized it's not even funny lol.

Tendria que tener mas suscriptores ,hay que compartir estos videos impresionantes , no vi nadie que enseñe asi , GRACIAS !!!!!!

Hi Jaime, was wondering how you got the Jumper T16 to recognize the 40, 60, 80 head speeds. The Jumper T16 doesn't let you change the subtrims in output menu without messing up the 100% numbers. Could you share your eepe file?

The reason I'm using a switch for throttle is because of my flying style, a typical 3D pilot sets their radio up this way because they are doing inverted flying and maintaining hovers upside down, whereas if you use linear throttle curve with a somewhat linear pitch curve set up on the throttle joystick you can only fly upside up or loop. Custom pitch and throttle curves are completely achievable using this radio.

@@tyrian869 love your videos man ! What receiver do you use ...? I'm unsure what is the best setup .... If you could give me some options that would be great

@@EddietheG Hi Luke, great question, I'm using an FR sky XM plus diversity receiver that I'm piping The uninverted s- Bus signal to the ikon 2.

Hey I finally figured out what was causing my tail wag and for it not having the ability to hold, it was mechanical play in the tail pitch slider ball link, and the tail rotor blade thrust bearings, its an old and abused Trex 500 i was given second hand, from some work I did for a fella a long time ago. things I have learned, Newer Helicopter gyros such as IKON do not require neutral tail rotor pitch. something about where the push rod is attached closer to the servo vs being further out on the control horn can effect the resolution of the tail rotor pitch and torque from servo. any play or binding in the tail will cause wag or loss of tail control. 3mm side glow fiber optic with LED are great for lighting up an RC helicopter mixing parts from different helicopters can sometimes work, and other times be a pain. you can take the main rotor blades off and while holding the helicopter spool it up the check to see if your tail will hold in heading lock, and to see if there is a dead zone where the rotor blades are not pitching when you move from one direction to the next, the smaller that window the better, ideally no center dead zone is the best holding tail. how to sand the tail boom block and tape up the end of the tail boom to keep it from slipping back into the frame, On another note, everything is working good now, I went and few it under the street lamp last night, I didn't think the issue was mechanical but I was wrong and for that I spent so much time trying all these other things that it could have been that didn't work. list of things I need to do. 1 remove ratchet from throttle sick. 2 part three, how I setup failsafe 3 part three what changes to flight modes I made based on what I learned in part 2, CH8 AUX channel is now put to use. 4 take some video of me flying this thing.

I'm am putting something great together I have a lot more information regarding the radio setup, I just created a new model started from scratch, I had a few cameras setup monitoring the whole process I just finished setting up the governor too, I had to make a special cable with a resistor for the ESC ubec signal wire that goes into the IKON 2, repairs are all pretty much done my KBDD tail rotor blades are a bit lose and the screws holding them seem to be on the short side....there not gripping the nylon in the nut, I don't have any shims for the rotor blade sholder bolt holes either. I spooled it up outside and everything seems to run smooth, I need to adjust the tails neutral position i think . as it wanted to spin on take off.

Part two is available on my channel, just in case you don't have The Bell icon clicked.

Part 2 is up if you want to check it out. I'll see about adding the link to the end of this video so it's easier to find.

This video is so old. I don't even have the drone anymore. You are absolutely right from the endurance perspective, but from a performance standpoint for someone who likes to go fast and put on a show 4S is the way to go.

I just want to make sure you saw my other comment I'm making a part two and found a bug in the model, nothing on my part as far as i know I thought I backed up everything right before updating the firmware on my radio, I never flew it on this firmware, but anyway the fix is in the mix page channel 6 needs to be assigned to I thr so that the the throttle stick is mixed with channel 6 so you can control pitch

@@tyrian869 yeah man, I've read it and hopefully all are working correctly now. So you mean every qx7 needs to be updated? Mine I'm still working on it, as I don't have much time yet. Thanks a lot on your reply Clancey, very much appreciated.

@@ramylems6107 @@ramylems6107who knows it could have Just been me during one of many recording 😂, I'm glad I'm going back over it all who knows I might have missed it. I haven't flown this in a while and really haven't flown it, I have to throw a pitch gauge And a swashplate levelling tool back on it. I updated my radio for other reasons, It shouldn't affect anything model related but it's always a good idea to And you should always check to make sure everything is working properly before you fly.

Yes I use KBDD tail rotor blades, And I'm going to make it a goal to get this heli back going, I had a crash due to the tail boom slipping, Seems there has been some interest in this video, I'm going to follow up this week. Stay tuned And don't forget to hit that Bell icon, I'm getting motivated to make more videos this this year.

No I haven't, I'll take the advice and try it out. I'm editing videos now.

Well Hello, it was pretty easy, from what I remember, I Think I should make a video. it is really interesting because there is like an order in which you have to do things, so that certain switches override others, like the switch you use to cut throttle but at the same time still allow control of pitch, idle up having different predefined rotor head speeds failsafe, flight modes for Ikon and bailout. under heli setup swash type = 90 I have 5 special functions under the special functions menu these are the ones that have to be in order. It looks like I'm doing all of this with only 6 ch. maybe three mixes I'm looking at it right now, But I mean since I don't use this radio alot, I don't wan't to give to false information hopefully what you need, best thing is to get your radio linked, Talking to the Flight controller, or Ikon, Monitor the channels there, Keep all rotors off while testing, Using the special functions is easy once you figure out how they work it's like the best thing since sliced bread. I was amazed. hope this helps.

@@tyrian869 yeah man, I thought it would be easy but I'm completely lost hahaha...I got my qx7 since December and until now still sitting in the box. If can you do a video on setting up your qx7 radio very much appreciated Clancey. Thank you very for your time, safe flying....

@@ramylems6107 weird I'm just now seeing your reply. Okay I'll make a goal to make a tutorial video this week!

@@tyrian869 Thank you very much Clancey, keen to see a qx7 setup tutorial.

I put an ikon Flight controller on that helicopter 500x and it was amazing

I got some new tail rotor blades too, there yellow, kbdd I think, I'll get back on it soon and post updates, I even have the crash footage, thankfully I was only few feet from the ground, I lost tail and it went spinning out of control, I cut power right before it hit the ground

HK-32-26-1600KV

Man the belt slipped and I had a minor crash, haven't unleashed this beast from hover, been rebuilding it, I have all the parts just haven't worked on it in some time seeing comments motivates me, I need to get back to work on this

I agree tail does sound loud, I have a new tail setup, I will have to go over all the replacement parts / upgrade parts that I used since the mishap, I've got metal gears in my servos changed out main gear, tail shaft and rotor blade grips. Ect

I would recommend to buy blade 230s. It’s a great beater to practice on. With Ikon2 on your 500, you really have nothing to worry about in terms of flight stability, if you have decent servos

@@2t_mxrider I spent weeks trying to find replacement Gears for my servos, they're out of stock everywhere discontinued, and I wasn't going to pay 50$+ for each new servo. Another name brand in servos has the same gears and I was able to get metal ones. The Forum I was reading at the very end didn't have a clear answer as the part number changed to the referred link I took a chance and got lucky they were the correct ones, majority of the rebuild is done and don't have but a couple things left to do and check.