Euroa Guitars is a manufacturer and supplier of Custom Guitars, Lapsteels and Guitar Parts. Exclusive supplier of Dr GAS Pickups We specialise in repairs to all stringed instruments. We are located at 2/46 Binney St Euroa Victoria Australia 3666 where we have a selection of musical instruments and parts available.
Have you or any of the customers noticed an significant increase in the weight of the guitar? And also, playability, due to your bare forearm rubbing against the finish?
Generally they are 10mm however I would always check the size of the tuners with a vernier calliper they are pretty cheap. Also a step drill will do a good job drilling holes and are pretty easy to come by now.
The guys touting fancy reamers are missing the point. This is a perfectly good working man's fix. Just be careful with veneered headstocks like Gibson. I went very slow, it worked. If you go too fast it's easy to split the headstock towards the edge. Ouch!
The model I have has a similar tailpiece to the one you are playing. The hooks aren’t really hooks, just metal teeth and loop end strings don’t stay on them. Is the one you are demonstrating, like this. If so do you have any suggestions?
If your tailpiece only has 4 tabs then yes double up. It may or may not be the original tailpiece, sometimes people only used 4 strings to reduce tension on the neck and skin.
I get the same outcome if I cover both front and back with masking tape. I forgot which is better - drilling from the top or the back of the headstock.
Hi! I found a reliance banjolele for 120 euros second hand, looks in good shape. Do you think it's worth it? I don't know much about this brand and I don't know where to ask for info haha. Thanks for your demo. Love banjoleles, it's very sweet to see people restoring these instruments.
Hi the going rate for a restored Banjolin in Australia is around 300 to 400 aud approx 200 to 250 euros. Mostly you will find the action to be too high. Also check to see that the skin is in good condition. Skins are not expensive ( I buy mine through Elderly in the USA) but they can be a bit tricky to install.
This one I used a resin used for fibreglass. You can use other resins, but I would not use a casting resin as I've found it too hard to use. West system apoxy is good if you can get it.
I did this to a cheap Charvel I wish I had done like this I chipped it a little but I put lock tuners that kept it in tune much better . For it to be Maple I have no idea where it was made I traded it for a looper station I asked if the neck was straight so it's actually a descent sounding guitar now
Just found this! Great idea! I’ve got a couple of these projects ready to go. This makes so much more sense compared to the others methods I’ve researched! Some of these others will are needlessly complicated and time consuming! As a person that’s mechanically inclined and good with his hands you learn to find the best methods and avoid over complicating your work.
Thanks Bobby, always a good idea to check how your chosen fabric may react. Having said that I've never had any problems with quilting cottons. Have used the same process restoring a painted body that needed cavities filled, but after grafting in timber you could still see the joint lines in the timber. This method gives a nice solid smooth surface for painting as well. Good luck, hope all goes well. Cheers Carl. Euroa Guitars
If the base coat is in good condition, that should be ok. Just give it a light sand to provide a key for the epoxy. Also it will depend on the colour of the body and the colour of the fabric, ie. remember that a light coloured fabric may allow some of the body colour to show through.
At 3.04 min you will see that the two outer holed are drilled all the way through and these are used as reference points to position the toneblock prior to routing. Cheers
@@euroaguitars.drgaspickups8197 Ah I missed that. I thought you were speaking to the holes being misaligned when you were talking about the brass slot but looks like you were talking about misalignment due to other reasons.
Hi Dan, this build is still in progress and hopefully I will have an update video soon. At the end of last year I was in hospital, and then moved the business in to a shop front, so have been flat out with that. Thanks for your patience, I'm keen to get it finished and then put out a video of the full process.
Get a stepped reamer for RC airplane props and go from 8mm to 10 mm holes simply using a drill or drill press from the back of the headstock. A drill press is precise and perfectly square to the rear of the headstock. Do NOT use a hand drill since you cannot hold it steady or drill perfectly square to the rear of the headstock. The 8mm holes need to be 10 mm diameter from the rear side of the headstock and about 9mm deep. A 'reamer bit' is tapered and you need the rear of the headstock holes 10 mm diameter for 9 mm deep and the 8mm holes at the front to remain. A drill press makes it easy with the bit mentioned...
I have used the reverse drill bit method also it never hurts to do a practice run on scrap wood so you get a good feel for how the bit grabs and reacts in reverse.
Love them or hate them its interesting to think about what might have happened to the Tele if Leo hadn't sold Fender. Always the innovator, Leo wasn't afraid to try something new.
Guys i know it look reeeeaaally bad but i just did it cuase im stupid... It turned out very very good actually. Just take it really slow. And you need to make sure the drill i fairly strait then you are god to go, SLOW.
You are doing it the hard way! I just completed this job in just a few minutes with a great tool from a company named Mcmaster-Carr part # 3141A65. It's an adjustable reamer that does a fantastic job in just minutes. And you don't have to bother with adjusting your hole size to compensate for the taper on other reamers.
Hi Sam, since making this video, I now use an engineering spiral tapered pin reamer. These work really quickly and are not as tapered as the standard hand reamer that can be a problem as you've mentioned. Thanks for your suggestion and input. Cheers Carl
Wish I had watched this before going in... I started with a 10mm wood drill, 1 second later: had to put some filler in to get the splintered wood replaced. Well the tuners cost almost more than the guitar so what the hell :P Also a great idea to go from 8mm to 9mm to 10mm.
You can certainly trim the edges with a sharp blade once the resin has hardened, you could even just sand the edges if you like and clean up any fibres with a sharp blade... the resin and fabric has a plastic consistency once hardened.
