That was a great show and awesome meeting you and the rest of the builders. Reg brake cable, thanks to Steve’s comment on the interior, I started doing my own thing. I actually reversed the lever, to actuate it from the inside. Would you like my coffee mug? ;)
I’m not sure what you reversed.. but I’m thinking the directions were off a bit.. something needed to be modified. I’m still working on a cup t-shirt combo.. I might be the first to score both..
I recall reading those holes for the ignition wires in the baffle were from the original design where two coils were mounted on the front of the engine and two in the back. Also the spark plug boots slide off the ignition wires.
AAARRRRGGG.. The amount of time I look through boxes of parts because the manual has not been updated is frustrating. Thanks for the info on the boots. The 2nd plane will be much easier. Oh wait, I'm not building a 2nd plane... Congratulations on your plane. It's looking great.
Just FYI: Battery-side of the master solenoid is in fact a direct connection to the battery, as it would share a post on the master switch with the battery, and the master solenoid wouldn't be in play at all. The other side of the master solenoid would go to the positive bus, and which would be switched.
I agree. I don’t think I indicated differently in the video. My issue with the charging lug, is that it connects to the starter solenoid, which is not live until the master switch is turned on. It will be good for jumping the battery, but not overnight charging.
basically yes. The air is forced around the cylinder fins and down. Some is forced to the oil cooler (which looks like a small radiator) and some is forced to cabin air ducts.
On the left front engine baffle and the 'mystery' plate that it bolted to the front left side of your engine with 4 bolts. Wouldn't that be where your prop gov for your CS prop goes? I'm thinking that's why the cover plate. And about that bracket on the front top of your engine, have you thought about turning that upside down and fastening that to your front baffling without that small plate you made?
Yes, I believe that I mention that the plate cover is for the CS gear box/governor. Unfortunately, there is some engine casing that sticks out that does not allow that bracket to be turned upside down (hard to see in the video). I could fabricate a new bracket (not hard) but I'm waiting to see if my "EZ" solution works. There is very little stress on that bracket, and I will leave it if the cowling fits.
Hopefully you dremeled the small notch in the hole your rivnut goes into. I put the small notch in, plus i use a dab of JB weld, otherwise your rivnut can spin, and you wont like that, trust me!
I believe that somewhere in one of the manuals it is suggested that you read the entire manual before starting your build. I did that and made mental notes on areas where things could be done in a better sequence. And before I start each step, I read through the entire section and think about the sequence before I do any riveting or otherwise permanently affix anything. I am sure that I have spent an hour reviewing the manuals for every hour I’ve spent in the shop. However, it has paid off with only a couple of areas where I painted myself into a corner. One thing I decided to do was fit the interior parts before I riveted the exterior skins. I am very glad I did that as parts of the console installation and side panels were far easier to do with access from the outside.
Yup. Excellent point. But even when doing that its still hard (for me) to sometimes have a vision of the final product. I often spend hours reading ahead, and then watching other builder videos, and checking EAA builder logs. There are still some corners that I get into...
A note on your antenna doubler plates: it is good practice to round the corners so you don’t have a sharp point to dig into the skin and create a stress concentration.
I would tend to agree with you, but the RANS manual advises priming any aluminum that comes in contact with the cage. I'm guessing it's in case the powder coating wears off. I was following the manual.
@@treetopflight7624 That applies in the case of putting aluminum rivets through holes drilled or reamed into the tabs or bosses on the cage because that removes the powerboat and exposes bare metal. Primer will wear through long before the powdercoat. No harm in priming, but not really necessary unless the dissimilar metal is contacting the metal in the cage.
Did the same thing as you did on the edge of the plate cutting into the tank. Fortunately didn't cut through the tank but I did fill the area with epoxy.
Yeah, I assume a lot of builders have done this. Hard to avoid unless you know about it. I saw a video where someone placed some plastic shavings (from a scrap piece) into the gouge and then used a soldering pencil to melt the shavings to the tank. Filled the gouge nicely.
I'm certainly below my monthly hours goal, but life has so many important interruptions that I don't regret. I'm doing the interior close out now, and will then mount my engine. That's another big milestone. Thanks for watching (even my chowder video.. :-) )
@@treetopflight7624 life always get in the way when taking on this expensive hobby and take forever to get the plane for the first flight. It's great that you take care of things that are more important than building the plane. Thank you for taking the time documenting your build progress. I took a lot of notes and have learned a lot of different tips and tricks for problem solving. I can't wait to start on mine.
When making any cuts in the tank, like for the gas cap, I wonder about dust and chips the cutting process. Did you just vacuum them out? How you know you got all of them, all the way out to the edges of the tank? ... Ah, I saw a line in the instructions that says to use a shop vac. I guess if it doesn't get all the debris, it'll get caught in the fuel filter.
DIY electrical wiring and avionics are definitely overwhelming for first time builder who are not experienced in this area. I took EAA online Sport Air Electrical wiring and Avionic class; it went through in more details from the basics, reading schematic, tools for the job, etc. one of the sections that will worth more than the cost of the class is "troubleshooting" Highly recommended for the first time builder who want to DIY avionics harness, installation and electrical wiring.
Can you name the builder log you mentioned in the video? the one posted on the EAA website. i would like to take a look at his build order and placement of the components
it seems like you are getting more comfortable with this homebuilt plane to come up with solutions and homemade tool such as your hole finder, nice trick
thank you for adding your comment at the end of the videos. but like Martin's comment, builder's videos like yours are the best resources when one is stuck with unclear or conflicting instructions from the manual. thanks for taking the time to make this video. LOL, your cat is begging for your attention.
nice trick on getting the main wheel rim seated by pumping air. too bad it would have been very interesting to see the tire pop in place in action. I wish you could've point out where you got stuck when installing tail wheel. i am sure other first time builder would have got stuck at the same place.
Thanks for getting into the gear assembly; for first time builder, it is hard to do things that are not described in the instruction manual. This video is definitely helpful and a good head up.
you certainly did your homework and research before you do the build. good point on avionic components and antenna installation before closing up the tail cone. builder will definitely need to plan ahead to install these for the kind of operation and panel for their build.
Thanks for pointing out where the manual instructions are not clear so these will give first time builder a heads up during their build. nice tip on the cleaning product, will definitely give Bar Keepers Friend a try. looking forward to other videos in your channel. Nice job!
Thanks for sharing and pointing out places where instruction manual are not clear. I am taking a lot of notes and am learning a lot from your videos; trim servo tip, counter weight, and the safety wire for the hinge pins. Nice job on the video and the build. at 16:56, when you demo the rivet wedge, you had the flat side of the wedge the other way around. the rivet gun need to contact on the flat surface of the rivet wedge. minor detail.
I don't think so on the wedge.. The flat side needs to be flush with the skin. The angled side allows the face of the gun to be flat on the wedge, while being at an angle. Well, if I flip it over, I would get the same angles. I think it provides the same result either way.
@@treetopflight7624 you are correct. the flat side of the wedge need to contact the rivet. other rivet wedges i have seen are solid, but if there is any scrap metal that can be made to be a rivet wedge, your is a perfect solution, just have to make sure the flat side contact rivet.
thanks for pointing out the "Gotcha" part of your build and show the handy tool to make the build easier and faster. minor comment on the video editing, when you use video camera to look at the drawing, all of them are blurry and I can't make out what's on the drawing. maybe take a still picture and edit into the video so it's clear to read? just a suggestion.
Great suggestion on the page picture... I'll start doing that. Unfortunately you have about 27 more episodes that I have already produced.. But going forward.....
