VOTED BEST TECHNICAL SERVICE AVAILABLE. WE OFFER EXTENSIVE OVER THE PHONE TRAINING ON ALL OF OUR PRODUCTS. FREE SHIPPING ON ALL MATERIALS, TUTORIAL VIDEOS IN THE DESCRIPTION OF EVERY PRODUCT We Installed our materials for over 25 years before deciding to sell them to the public. Our formulas were custom designed for our use and not available anywhere else. You will not find any other epoxy sales company with as much on hands on experience with materials as we have. Call Jason 610-972-5247 with any questions. Visit our online store for access to all products used in our videos: concretefloorsolutions.com/store/ Email me directly: jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
We have many tutorial videos and offer over the phone guidance to help you along the way. WHEN ONLY THE BEST WILL DO!!
Why is it sometimes you put down a grout coat on polished floors and sometimes you don't? And can you tell if you're going to need a grout coat before you get into the job.
@@jackhodges1030 very good question, some concrete is very porous and sometimes you can tell before you start the job that you will need a grout coat. Sometimes you don't know at all until you start grinding, and when you look real closely you can see the pores opening up within the concrete. If you don't see the pores opening, typically you do not need the grout coat. The grout coat simply fills all those little microscopic holes / pores. I always say Concrete is consistently inconsistent..
Awesome job...couple questions. What type of shoe are you guys using and working with epoxy...how is it you're not tracking...footprints in the epoxy? What sort of time frame are you using before the epoxy starts setting up?
Thank you so much for this video. We are considering polished concrete for our garage. I have a question: is the concrete still porous and easy to stain when it is polished? How often does it need to be repolished to keep it looking nice? Thanks! Do you recommend it for garages (cars) or just for work spaces?
Typically we do not recommend polishing in garages because it really does not provide any resistance to oil stains, etc. Every concrete slab is different so it may or may not be porous. There is no way to know until you are done. If it is done properly, you may not ever need to redo it. If your concrete is soft and porous, you might need to re-polish after five or 10 years. Concrete is very inconsistent
Great video. I had a question, I wanted to do this to my basement floor. It was poured about 4 months ago. Because it’s still pretty green do you think I’d be able to go straight to the resin discs? I feel like the metal pads might be too aggressive for green concrete.
I watched this start to finish as a refresher. I’m a handy-man and my go to is wood work. You did a great job here explaining everything. You showed patients, thanks. I will still be doing an epoxy floor on a porch but peanuts to the work of art on your garage floor ….looks fantastic. I’m here in South Carolina. Humidity now is better than several weeks ago that being said humidity and paint or applying epoxy really makes for trouble. Prep is key, thanks again.
I've never done more than pressure clean and acid wash a garage floor and never failed in 30 yrs. Prep is key, to a virgin surface you'll need to just pressure clean and wait till it dries. Then paint.
Jason you are an epoxy "Master". I've tried to watch most of your videos and you never cease to amaze me. You are very detail oriented. Thanks for the videos.
It’ all about the prep no mater what you are doing if you don’t do all the steps it won’t be long that you call and want me to fix what the other guy screwed up and it was the home owner that did the job but didn’t want to admit it. I’ve seen that happen several times, like here hold my beer this so easy !
exactly what type of stain was used in this video? was there a percentage of how black the stain was? I'm looking to get this exact look for my home garage for a more natural look instead of doing a metallic epoxy
I've seen guys take half a day to do what you did a fraction of the time. Similar process with the sand but they place the sand in the cracks and holes first and apply the chemical on after which tends to sink so they sprinkle more sand.
Have to squeegee back and forth to fill pin holes when doing the primer coat. I notice some guys don't do that and the pinholes show up later in the process or even when they are done. They say it's due to mixing to fast and causing air bubbles in the mix. 😅
@@BrainMonkeyBooks I agree, it is more from not using a low viscosity epoxy and yes, I agree 100% squeegeeing both directions will help work the air bubbles out of the pinholes. Bubbles are rarely caused from mixing.
We are installing a low viscosity epoxy primer first which is a vapor barrier. Then we are installing a polyaspartic base coat with flake on top and a Polyaspartic topcoat. We also have a kit with an epoxy primer, epoxy intermediate coat, and a choice of topcoat concretefloorsolutions.com/store/epoxy-floor-kits/500-sq-ft-complete-epoxy-flake-floor-kit/
Hello. For me with a low budget and a 2 car garage (400 sq ft) where we must park both of our cars inside every night.......can I just do a total surface grind, an epoxy vapor barrier primer with top flakes in it. Let that dry overnight, then just do the 1C polyaspartic top coat. What would that cost in materials from your company? Thanks.
We have multiple top coats, depending what you were looking for. Our CFS-1C single component polyaspartic is the most durable topcoat we have: concretefloorsolutions.com/store/polyaspartics/cfs-1c-polyaspartic/ Then we have our CFS high-performance urethane, which is almost as durable: concretefloorsolutions.com/store/urethanes/cfs-high-performance-urethane/ Or you can use our CFS-UV clear epoxy: This material has UV inhibitors in it, but it is not 100% UV stable, and eventually will start discoloring in direct sunlight concretefloorsolutions.com/store/epoxy/cfs-uv-clear-epoxy-top-coat/ If you have any questions at all, email me directly jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
yes, the final polish is called burnishing, must be done with a propane burnisher: concretefloorsolutions.com/store/surface-treatments/cfs-polished-concrete-guard/
Thanks again for the video. Once the sealer is applied on ground floor slabs, have you ever experienced moisture migrating to the walls ? Can a sealer prevent the slab from breathing ?
@@OptLab the sealer used in polishing are actually what they call a microfilm. It allows moisture to pass through, but it is not a waterproofing sealer by any means. If you need to stop moisture from passing through, you need to apply a coating, which would be a moisture vapor barrier or any of our epoxy kits on top of it
Jason I'm planning a 30' X 70' work shop with concrete floor and I want to seal it with a clear coat that is petroleum and chemical resistant. What do you recommend?
@@larrybouget7959 it depends on UV exposure. If this is interior with no UV exposure, you can use these kits. concretefloorsolutions.com/store/epoxy-floor-kits/clear-epoxy-floor-kits/ If you need a UV stable coating, I would recommend our CFS-1C polyaspartic concretefloorsolutions.com/store/polyaspartics/cfs-1c-polyaspartic/ If you have any questions at all, you can email me directly jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
@@QZCOATINGSWESTCOASTLLC if you are filling a crack you need to let the epoxy penetrate all the way down to the bottom of the crack in the sand, or it will not bond properly
You cannot use epoxy topcoats exterior. You need to use polyaspartics: I dont know how many sq.ft. you have, but here is whats recommended exterior: concretefloorsolutions.com/store/epoxy-floor-kits/500-sq-ft-cfs-1c-polyaspartic-flake-floor-kit/
Did you close down shop? How much did you spend on bits per year during operation? And what are all the grinding types did you support. A 3 step a 7 step and a 1 step
@@zorartfamily1374 we sold all of our equipment and now only sell our epoxy flooring materials in our online store concretefloorsolutions.com We typically only did nine step grinds
@@monicaberan9468 air bubbles typically occur from temperatures rising while placing coatings. The use of a low viscosity primer helps eliminate the risk of bubbles. Avoiding direct sunlight on the floor when you are installing coatings helps tremendously also. I did not get any bubbles in this floor
Thanks a lot for the video. Do you use triangular sander machines or oscilating tools for the corners ? How do you make the surface even for the corners ?
@@QZCOATINGSWESTCOASTLLC it literally looks like the day it was installed yet. 100% bond everywhere, I can’t say I abuse the floor, but I do use it pretty hard. I had a snowplow sitting on the floor all summer long , when I picked it up there was a real heavy rust stain, I used a wet mop and it came right up. Zero issues at all.
I just did my first commercial floor, I have been doing residential remodeling for almost 20 years now. It was an old car dealer with a shop, it’s now a gas station. 5000 square feet of concrete. It took me and one other guy 5 days of planing larger lips down and then grinding 3 coats of paint off the concrete to get it all ready to be repaired and smoothed out for vct. Talk about a friggin grind. Pun intended. I spent 10-12 hour days running those machines to keep the rental cost down as low as I could. I’m still sore and I returned the machine Tuesday XD. It took me half as long as I thought it would but I’ll be starting to lay flooring Monday! Nice work guys, looks great.
Thanks for the video! Concrete guy about to do a flake epoxy garage floor for my first time. I know most of it comes down to good prep work, but just wanted to take some more time to make sure I do it correctly. From Chester County too. My next step would be to figure out which products/kits I want to use.
@@farukatasever2933 it won't pull the oil out of the concrete. Once oil is in concrete, it is literally impossible to remove it entirely. You may get some of the film off the surface, but I can assure you the oil is still underneath and will eventually wick up.
We use 100 grit transition puck. The 100 resin I find is not very aggressive. Although we also use thehundred grit after the 40 grit diamond bus, saving a step
That’s a 500 CFM vacuum the larger 854 I believe gets up to 750 CFM but you aren’t getting 500 CFM through that 3 inch hose probably closer to 400. 500 CFM is when you have the 5 inch hose being utilized. So when you strangle it down, it will lose air flow in CFM, although you will increase the velocity of the air in the hose. But that being a fan motor doesn’t have a lot of lift and strangling it really affects its performance. Also, we start with a 1618 or even lower just so we can get down through the cream faster.
