VOTED BEST TECHNICAL SERVICE AVAILABLE. WE OFFER EXTENSIVE OVER THE PHONE TRAINING ON ALL OF OUR PRODUCTS. FREE SHIPPING ON ALL MATERIALS, TUTORIAL VIDEOS IN THE DESCRIPTION OF EVERY PRODUCT We Installed our materials for over 25 years before deciding to sell them to the public. Our formulas were custom designed for our use and not available anywhere else. You will not find any other epoxy sales company with as much on hands on experience with materials as we have. Call Jason 610-972-5247 with any questions. Visit our online store for access to all products used in our videos: concretefloorsolutions.com/store/ Email me directly: jason@concretefloorsolutions.com
We have many tutorial videos and offer over the phone guidance to help you along the way. WHEN ONLY THE BEST WILL DO!!
Man I effed mine up. Tried to roll it over the old epoxy floor. Now its not sticking and some spots not drying. Never again going with paint from now on. Hopefully this denatured alcohol will get it off.
We put a penetrating guard on it and burnish it. You cannot apply a coating on top of polished concrete, or it is no longer polished concrete is coated concrete. Polished concrete is exactly what it's called. concrete that is polished to a shine, no coating on top
Amazingly productive job!! Where did you order the slide-on spiked shoes? I didn't see them in your online store. Also, do you have issue with roller lines visible in the urethane topcoat. I noticed you did not do a one-pass finish roll across the entire width of the floor.
You do not get roller marks with our urethane as long as you use the 1/4 inch nap epoxy glide rollers. I do not recall where we got the spike shoes, unfortunately, we do not carry them.
@@kraigmtarou There are three different materials involved, the primer is approximately 500 centipoise, the intermediate coat is approximately 1300 centipoise, and the urethane topcoat is approximately 300 centipoise If we used 1 pint of 54 mesh aluminum oxide on that entire job, I would be surprised
Love your videos ! Thank you for your detailed explanations! My wife loves these floors except she is wanting a low luster , not so much shine - how is this accomplished ?
Our single component Polyaspartic gives you approximately 40 minutes of working time. Two component polyaspartics typically give you 10 to 15 minutes if your lucky.
would you still use the epoxy slurry coat if this was going to be a polished concrete floor or only for a floor that would have this epoxy finish on it?
There cheap people that want the lowest and fastest way and there people that will pay for the write materials and time is not the contractors fault is what the client wants you to do and how fast and cheap, they want a Mercedes for a Honda price
What chair/stool are you using while hand grinding? I’m definitely doing my own concrete with epoxy. I’m in Arizona so researching to find the best product that can handle the Arizona 115 degree summers. Got any suggestions
These guys spot on. Removing contaminants with the diamond grinder is the way to avoid call backs and the safest way to do it. Obviously, if the hot tires caused problems you are dealing with really poor quality epoxy(or paint) and possibly whoever etched the floor did not neutralize the acid. I have never ever had a problem with epoxy bonding to clean smooth concrete that is not scratched with a diamond grinder but I am usually dealing with concrete that has no oil contaminates,,,,,,,,,, but that said, I just hired a friend who has an epoxy flooring company to do my basement and he hit my fairly new floor hard with the diamond machine to break through where I power trawled the surface smooth when I poured SCC (6"). I had filled cracks 10 years prior with no primer and it was solid when ground down but again I used a high quality epoxy. He used a primer after grinding and it stayed tacky before the first base pour of epoxy. I have mixed feelings about the primers on surfaces that already have a vapor barrier below. The primer is not as strong since its a waterbourne 2 part acrylic type sealer (and a vapor barrier) but if you get the post seal coat of epoxy on within a certain amount of hours it seems to bond. I prefer using the straight epoxy versus a water bourne sealer to seal the floor since epoxy is so damn strong and soaks in very well especially when pre heated. Bottom line is, make sure you have a really high quality non blushing floor epoxy if doing a DIY; when you prep make sure you neutralize the acid etch and let it dry. Also follow instructions exactly!
I'm trying to do some research before I put down some metallic epoxy in my basement. I've noticed some people sand it but the chew did not. Will the urethane still adhere to the epoxy if I do not do this? I'd like to get a urethane that doesn't scratch very easily since it will be high traffic areas.
First thing to remember is, there is no such thing as a scratch proof floor. The urethane is definitely better scratch resistance than epoxy itself. It is recommended that you lightly sand the surface of epoxy before you apply the urethane. We do have some contractors that apply floor wax instead of urethane and say that is even better scratch resistance, then the urethane.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutionsthank you for the advice. I will definitely do my research into the wax. I was worried that sanding the metallic would take away the shine but I'm guessing the urethane would add that back in. Do you have any advice on maintaining the scratch resistance or I guess how to maintain the luster over time? I read that metallic epoxy force can last 20 years if you take care of them, but I'm looking into what I would need to do to do so.
Yes, we use a 36 mesh aluminum oxide, the particles are larger and settle out of the clearcoat. We actually changed our technique a bit Since this video, you can apply the aluminum oxide onto the dry flake, pour out your topcoat, squeegee and back roll, and it will pick the particles up, redistribute them evenly in the topcoat.
Nice, Great stuff.. You guys do great work. Since covid it's so hard finding quality companies to do good work . Keep up the good work and appreciate your videos. Thanks
I noticed you do partial broadcast most of the time which I prefer when doing my floors . Do you ask the client if they would prefer partial or full broadcast?
We have not done installs now for almost 3 years. Yes we always asked what type of coverage they would like. From a DIY standpoint full flake is the best because it's the most consistent. I find when customers try lighter, flake, they throw one heavy handful, which just leaves an eyesore in the middle of the floor
I'm happy for you and the take off on sales. Wish you were local to California. I would definitely love to take an apprenticeship under you and restart your physical jobs again. Good stuff all around. Best wishes to you.
Just did my fist epoxy job on my own and i had a few mistakes. First i didn't prime and paint dried blotchy. Flakes hid the mess under. Some parts absorbed faster than others and dried. When i cast the flakes they didnt stick much. Tried touching up. Huge mistake. Resanding everything and reapplying base coat and flakes. From man to man, thank you. You definitely help me understand epoxy systems better.
I would be more than happy to guide you through personally, create an account in our store and get contractor discounts . You can email me directly jason@concretefloorsolutions.com. I am here to help.
So here’s the thing I am learning more towards the competitors product. One because most concrete isn’t level, it’s usually sloped toward a drain so I want something that stays
One thing you absolutely need to understand is if you do a topical repair using gel, it does not soak down into the crack, and will not glue it back together, it is a topical Band-Aid. It will re-crack, because there is nothing holding it together. With a penetrating repair like this, it will soak into the crack and glue it back together again. When you are working on an incline, you just use a little bit at a time so it doesn't run down the drain.
It would probably cost tens of thousands of dollars in equiptment but I know someone could make good money in my area installing your products. Very high quality looking floor and very professional installation.
Thank you for watching, we do assist many startup companies across the country. If you know anybody who’s interested, have them get in contact with me. I am always here to help.
Here is what I learned from watching your videos. You didn't say it, because you are nice and don't want to trash the competition...but I've seen enough RU-vid videos to figure it out. Virtually any suburbia home built since the 1980's has a garage with sealed concrete. Unless you build a new house and request no sealer on the cement, it will be sealed. Yet, companies market the acid etching approach for convenience when they know damn well that it won't work...that in reality, a surface grind is required for proper adhesion in virtually all of the cases. But they don't tell you that in clear terms and emphasis that acid etching in all likelihood will not be an option for the overwhelming majority of folks. They let customers buy and use the acid etching and invest in the tools, primer, topcoat and clear coat that is surely to separate in the very near future. What a racket this acid etching is to the consumer... and those companies get away with it. They know most DIYers would be put-off if they realize they will be burdened with the additional cost of rental for a diamond re-surfacing tool, having to go pick it up and return it, setting up dust control system, as well as the extra work involved in the actual grinding/resurfacing to do it right. Crazy but true. What say you?
There are too many variables to give any accurate pricing. It could be anywhere from five dollars per square foot to $20 per square foot depending on location, repairs access, etc..
I have determined that the most reliable garage floor is probably just untouched concrete. Had one for 22 years, a bit dusty but otherwise no problems.
