Amazing! I am thinking about a Shiro Kamo Knife. I am not sure if I should take Aogami Super steel or Suminagashi 1. I heard Aogami Super is harder to sharpen. I own the Naniwa Choseras too. Could you tell me please what is your experience with the aogsmi super and Chosera? Best Regards
These lens should be OK. You have checked haze/fungus/scratches yourself, so optics are fine. The sharpness is uniform across the frame, so not a decentering issue. The change of flare you saw could be caused by the light bouncing off the rear element or the adapter wall. The camera sensor can reflect light and can potentially affect image quality, too. The wider the lens, the angle of the light is wider, that could explain why a longer focal length is OK (your 28mm). I bet your 50mm will work fine as well.
Hi, thanks for your review ! -besdie this model, what do you suggest for making refine edges ? -for home kitchen do i need under 5000 stone ? (my knifes barely get dull)
Hi, i hope you are doing well I just start my kitchen collection and i want to buy more luxuary knives in future ! i was thinking about Rika 5000 and Arashiyama 6000 ! because my knives wont get dull ! i think for now i am okay with one stone what do you suggest ? (its okay if you have any suggestion beside than these i said)
Hello, I have a Shapton pro 320, 1000, 2000, 5000, 8000 ... Suehiro Cerax 1000, Rika 5000 and Imanishi Kitayama 8000. I plan to buy Hap40 and ZDP knives but i'm scared that my stones are not good enough and/or not fast enough. Can you recommend me some stones if you think that my setup is not good enough ? I saw one of your video sharpening HAP40 with an Imanishi 1000 and it looked good.
Yoshihiro Toishi Whetstone. Definitely a pro at high alloy. But tbh...a King 1200 is very good for bringing dull to sharp for HAP40. And I'm not the biggest King fan! Idk what it is about the 1200 but it's prime for HAP40 touch ups and sharpenings...if not too bad. Lastly: a well lapped diamond plate 🥰👍
Burr is just tiny little metal on edge, right? It can be removed by news paper. Doesn't matter which direction. No need to treat it too seriously. Just sharpening work.
Relaxing to watch. Just wondering, when and how do you deburr? When I do only stropping motions myself I tend to form a wire edge or foil edge resulting in a sharpness that doesn't last long.
I'm pretty sure the stone he is using is a high polish stone, so he really isn't trying to create a burr, just polish the edge. If he creates a burr on a stone like this, then it would be really hard for him to deburr without going back in grit to a coarser stone. I think he creates a burr on the first stone he uses and deburrs on the same stone. After that first stone, he is only polishing without creating a new burr. The leather strop also helps remove the last little bits of burr
@@sacoto98 Hi, thank you! Yes, I created burr on coarse stone. Once I get burr on the whole edge on both sides, the work is almost done. Just deburr evenly and lightly on both sides. Then I will move to next stone, but no need to do much work since coarse stone has done most of work. High grit polishing stone has not much work to do either in the end as last process. I try to keep some toothy edge for long lasting purpose. After polishing stone, I use leather to remove tiny little burr on top of edge.
@@EtherTNaniwa 1k leaves quite fine polish for a medium, if there is a strop afterwards, then quite possible. I've just made shitty stainless shave and pushcut on a 400+1000 setup
I didn't know that this stone could also use r2 steel. What other types of steel can it do? Is there a difference between this and the Arashiyama 1K and 6K? Looks like the 1k side is harder and the 6k side is creamier, softer as the arashiyama. Is there a difference in the type of sharpness or how quickly the ridge forms ? Same manufacturer but still apparently different.
