You advice to put the main dimmer switch at the LOAD, saved me a BUNCH of time with my installation of my Leviton Z-Wave Dimmer!! Thank you! In my case, In my case, my 4-way switch did not have a HOT. Instead, it had COMMON, and two TRAVELERS. I re-assignes one of the travelers, making it HOT instead. Presto! Now I had all of the necessary wires to make my remote switch work! I'm with you! I do not like the stranded wire the dimmer switch came with!
Is there an option to do both Fan control and Light control with a single switch? Does the version of the Haiku Fan matter? I have four older L-series and one I-series fans.
I use Leviton DZ6HD-1BZ Decora Smart Switches, but any switch compatible with Home Assistant will work: www.home-assistant.io/integrations/#switch Yes, you will need a machine that runs 24/7 for home assistant to handle the automation.
@@jackstromberg I don't wanna get a machine to stay on. Is there another way to run a switch with this dang fan I just ordered for $$$$$ lol. Or can I set it in app to turn light on as soon as I walk in room?
@@4rdzlla for this scenario, yes you need a computer that would run 24x7. I use a raspberry pi since it's fanless and draws very little power. Alternatively, you can use the SenseMe feature as part of the fan to automatically turn the lights on/off for you as you walk in/leave.
@@4rdzlla here are the recommendations from BAF: 52 inches (132 centimeters): 15 ft x 15 ft coverage. Ideal for smaller bedrooms, walkways, and home offices 60 inches (132 centimeters): 20 ft x 20 ft coverage. Perfect for family rooms, master bedrooms, and kitchens 84 inches (132 centimeters): 30 ft x 30 ft coverage. Great for open floor plans, workshops, and covered outdoor spaces In this case, either is fine. If you want someone to say "Wow, that's a BAF!" then go with the bigger one. It would also let you move more air movement at a lower RPM, theoretically being a tish quieter to operate. 52" fan is going to move a ton of air though, I never run it even remotely close to max.
@@4rdzlla I don't have the uplight kit on my fan, only the Light Kit that faces down. The fan is in a bedroom and the light kit is definitely bright enough to illuminate the whole room, but I also have some lamps that are used if lying in bed that are much more indirect.
Jack, Just tried this after finding your video while I was in search for a solution just like this. I have three of these fans and HATE having a dead unusable wall switch that always has to stay on. I followed your guide using the same switch and it works so well! Its extra special to see the settings change themselves in the app or on the switch and the slight delay is actually perfect. I like the Leviton switch because it has 7 different led's and makes it easier to know about where you are quickly by eye. Also if you would want to use this for the fan instead of the light, bigass fans have 7 speeds... like it was designed for this almost! If you have a paypal or anything would love to shoot you a few bucks for your effort. Its very appreciated!
Glad the video was helpful! As a quick side note, this video is a bit old and Home Assistant has an integration for Big Ass Fans without the need to install HACS. Something worth checking out to simplify a few steps. Appreciate the gesture on a tip; if the video was helpful you can find my PayPal on the blog post in the description of the video. Once you click the link, you'll see the donate button under the About Me section on the right column of the page. Cheers!
It is possible to disable the locator light on the switch. You could try factory resetting the switch to see if it comes back on. To reset back to factory: hold the top of the paddle for a total of 14 seconds (you'll see the LED turns amber after 7 seconds. The locator LED will quickly flash red/amber after 14 seconds). Once the switch is flashing red/amber after 14 seconds, release the top of the paddle and the switch should reset back to factory defaults.
I had the same issue with another brand of fan it came with a remote. I bought a 3D printed holster for it to put it next to door and I just leave it there. I wish they came with gangbox switchs.
I added another video that shows how to use a smart switch with this fan. Might give you some ideas to see if you could do the same for yours: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ltlfZM_A64A.html
Like your videos. I have one suggestion. More edit, it was dragging after a few minutes of watching. I hung with it because I like how your videos really explains things. I wanted to move to someone else’s videos because of the length of time. Thanks and keep up the good videos
If you have the fan on and you turn the power off at the wall switch does the fan remember the current speed and light settings when you turn the power back on at the wall switch? In other words does the fan spin back up when you turn the switch on at the wall?
Yes, the fan will remember what setting it was on. I set the fan to "3" for fan speed, flipped the breaker to the room, and turned it back on. Fan speed remained at 3 and started to spin up again.
Great video man!!!! You helped me a lot. I started with Feit switches from Costco which are great but not for 4 way. Then I bought Leviton and had the master in the center instead of the end. I moved the master to the end and success.
Thank you so much for this video! I was fighting with my four-way for about an hour and was on hold with Leviton for another 30 minutes when I stumbled on your video and it solved my problem. Thank you!!
If you have 3 light switches to control one light, that would be considered a 4way switch. You will connect the master controller to the wires that go to the light/outlet. The switching remotes can be in either of the other two spots on the circuit; you'll write accordingly.
Hello,,,thanks for sharing. been looking for these type setups. Do you have the link to that instructional sheet download? I couldn’t find that specific one showing 4 way setups
Looks like all my youtube comments were stripped. Adding the link to the manual for 4-way installation for future reference: www.leviton.com/en/docs/DI-000-DZ1KD-02A-W.pdf
Green LED is used to find the light switch in the dark. It is on when the switch is OFF and and OFF when the switch is on. Unfortunately, there is no way to change this.
Hi! Thanks for the great video. Would it please be possible for you to make a more elaborate video of how to identify the travellers and the hot and neutral? Especially on the 4-way switch. Thank you!
I’m trying to do something similar with a 4-way install using DH6-HD but I am a little confused. I have two 3-ways and one 4-way. Can I put the two DDOOR’s on the 3 way and the DH6-HD on the 4 way?
Thanks! Yeah I figured out that I had to have it next to my load connection but I never got a voltage tester to see which switch was the load and which was the line (hot). I also read somewhere that in a 4 way, I needs to wire nut the traveler wires together. I haven't figured that part out yet though.
For future reference (looks like RU-vid lost my comments), the recommendation would be to use a voltage finder. You can watch my first video where it talks through how to use one of these tools here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zDKF2u4IuAs.html
