I enjoyed your tutorial very much, I use a Ortur LM2 Pro laser engraver that came with a 10w and upgraded to a 20w module and use Lightburn as well. I was wondering what wattage your laser machine is. I hope to see a few more tutorials from you in the near future
@@klmindustries4812 5w? wow! I'm surprised too, I cut a lot of 5mm baltic bearch ply and the 10w takes 4-6 passes which is why I upgraged to 20w, I was trying to figure out your speed and power and thought you had atleast a 10w Modual. you must have a much larger laser engraver? only being able to make one peice at a time would take for ever to make patches. how much would you sell one custom key chain for?
My favorite Shakespeare Sturdy Stik 7’ Medium action is 40 years old and I finally had to replace a tip and an insert. I watched your video and it was very informative. Thank you. My rod is now as good as new. I could have bought a new one for $50 but I’d much rather keep this Old Faithful. Cheers.
Did you try changing the interval? To 0,05 mm? I bought this machine. Still waiting for it to come. I want to engrave some things for my company. Some machines, some business cards and even cut some plastic for some projects. Hope this goes well.
I did but it just doesn't apply if you make the fill intervall to small. Should go well, just be aware that it smells horrible, so have it in a seperate Room maybe 👍
@@klmindustries4812 YEah. I will probably keep all my windows opened. I am just a beginner. Just testing the free trial of LightBurn as we speak. It's the only one that has a Mac version.
You would have had a much better result with the brass, if you had attached a sacrificial piece of wood, with holes drilled where you wanted to punch the rasps. Then when you punched the rasps, the brass would not have deformed. You would have also had a neat arrangement of holes, so your final product would look much cleaner. Also, it would have been nice to see you use it.
I tried that in the beginning with the first holes, you can see it a bit in the Video. But what happend was, that a lot of the brass was basically "pulled" into the hole. Without the hole there was less deformation. But i think I will try it again with a hardwood backing with holes, as I used fir in the Video.
I too question the overall effectiveness of Fertan. I recently acquired an old steel narrowboat and have stripped back with a Tercoo blaster and then Fertaned any remaining rust patches. After leaving to work for the advised time period then scrubbing off with water I find that many patches bloom up brahman orange with rust within a day or so (no rain). Somewhat disappointing. I think the best thing to do is strip back with poly strip abrasive discs and epoxy immediately. Although this is far from practical when painting a whole boat cabin
Thanx a lot for this informative Video. Could you do once one on the topic of the different grit-standards? I hone my straigth razor on a coticule. They say, it has a grit-range of 6‘000 to 8‘000, but no one can tell me, if it’s the japanese or the european standard. My question is, if I can increase the sharpness with a 12‘000 jnat.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NKsuHuyprdo.htmlsi=0MdCRSDqK5AzqaZV Thats the one where I explain the different Grits. Thanks for the Comment 👍
anyone with basic skills can get better edges with nothing more than single sheet of budget bin sandpaper than most of these youtube wankers with $1500 finnikcy setups. The point is, you don't need anything other than skills. A guy with basic skills will get better results off a literal brick from the garden. That lansky is outdated obsolete junk. Not worth it for $10 much less what they charge. I wouldn't take one for free. It's a waste of time and low quality junk. Yeah my granddad used one too, but wtf did they know? Those dmt plates aren't great either. They're vastly overpriced and wear out quicky. All of them have grit contamination and leave extremely deep and stray scratches. But yes they actually work and you can get good edges with it. I'd take basically any Japanese waterstone over either of those things. The issue is, folks are getting ripped off thinking waterstones cost 2x what they actually do. That $275 10k naniwa chosera they sell of sharpening supplies you can get elsewhere, yes in the US, for $60 full price in 15 mm thickness rather than 30 mm. A 1k shapton pro they're charging $60 for costs $25 in Japan. if you really wanted a fixed system, I'd suggest an edgo pro clone. it's one of the least finnicky and gimmicky systems. Order a clone from China for $50 and be grateful, throw in some Chinese resin bonded diamond stones in the 3" x .5" size for about $10 each and you're set. Also the water stone you are using is not intended to be used for what you are using it for. That is a Suehiro Cerax, which is a highly friable stone that's intended to be used on the wide bevels of traditional style Japanese kitchen knives. It makes no sense to use a stone like that for doing secondary bevels on western style knives. That is a great stone with modern technology if you actually use the way it's intended to be used, which like I said is for WIDE bevels. It will leave a smooth, hazy, scratch free surface on a wide bevel and create a distinct contrast between the layers of steel in a cladded, laminated or pattern welded knife. The stone wears fast and creates a great deal of mud in use. Which is what it's designed to do.
I believe that at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aIuDu_FUVOY.html you took the tool the wrong way. 😅 I've been using it for a couple of years very occasionally, it works really great. It allows anyone to sharpen a chain almost like new, with no skill required. You just have to make sure the end with the chainsaw icon is the closest to chainsaw and that you keep the Pferd CS-X horizontal. What's nice about it as well is that it's easy to use in the forest.
I have it set to 12 volts. You don't need to set an Amperage, that results from the resistance of your workpiece. If I remember correctly it pulls like 1 Amp, so pretty much every power supply is fine.
Thanks for the answer! It´s possible to set limits on the device I had the possibility to use and at 12 Volts an 3 Ampere it was a bit too heavy? So this is not sure but it felt like.
Your technique is the problem. Not the gear sir. Bur removal should be a stropping motion and you should fatigue the burr til it snaps off however you want that to happen cleanly. You are TEARING the burr and destroying the APEX of the edge.
Leather works very good, you just need to play around with the settings, which you can see in my newer Tutorial: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rz1DS0GPN08.html Leatherette is not reccomended because it can catch on fire, since its basically loose plastic. You can try it with a very small emgraving, but be prepared to deal with a possible fire.
Nice vintage Mora, i also have one from 1950, but from Carl Andersson with laminated Carbonsteel, that Steel is super easy to sharpen and the Edge is like a Straight Razor when i wanted it to this Level of Sharpness. I sharpen on a not super fine japanese Naturalstone ca. 1000/1500Jis and then polishing on Charnley Forest.
Nice one, and it will easyly last another 75 Years 😁. And yea these carbon steel knives are soo easy to sharpen compared to any stainless knife. My Mora is from the 80s, my grandpa bought it for my dad in Sweden ^^.
Nice that is from your Ancestors, so to say :D also is that Steel not so radioactive, like newer Knifes, thats cause all the nuclear atmospherical Weapontests , its not harmful, but the Isotops are measurable. For your Morakniv i wish this to, that it will last also so long, keep good care of it and maybe sand the Handle a bit, and oil it then with Lineseedoil. Sandpaper i would use 240, that is not to rough nor too smooth, 400 is nearly polished.@@klmindustries4812
Try not to put too much pressure on the stropping leather for scandi knives. You lose a lot of the flat edge at the apex. It should be just a couple of gentle passes.
Thanks for the Comment, since i use a very fine compound and my leather is pretty soft I never had any problems with that. But I guess that could be different wirh different strops and compounds, especially those diamond stropping compounds.
Do you know of anyone being successful at electro-etching brass? I can get it to darken easily but not actually etch to any depth. Thank you , nice video!
I haven tried it, but then i guess one would need a different electrolyte then Saltwater. Try it with Citric Acid or Acetic acid (Just Vinegar) from your Supermarke. I can imagine that going acidic could help.
@@klmindustries4812 I have tried with vinegar and salt added with no effect. I even tried increased current to 6 amps 12V and not etching, however the oxide deposit was outstanding.
I spent €20 or €30 on diamond plates to lap a fkn tile to hone razors. These things are pretty hard and smooth. It can have a mirror finish so it's definitely over 10.000k grit or who knows maybe 100.000k because it kinda has no grain at all. You can hone it to nano meters and the steel just glides on it or something. The diamonds of course make scratches when I push hard enough but the progress is slow and the scratches could trap the edge with edge leading strokes so I remove them with a cheap, worn and dished grey carborundum stone. It also wears the diamonds out and cant be lapped flat. The razor doesnt like the tile either. It's the closest I got to a mirror shine on the bevel but it creates some kind of weird burr or something. The apex is not keen. Only an electron microscope would tell you what's going on.
When your pushing in to the strop so hard you are absolutely rolling over the edge apex due to the softness of the leather. Your edges will come out much better and with much more bite if you simply use very light pressure when stropping.
Thanks for your comment 👍. I usually find that I have to use quite bit of force to remove the burr on these softer stainless steel knives. But the edge becomes a lot better if I can do it on the Leather. I do use very fine stropping compound, so that might be a readon why more pressure works better for me.
I grew up on sharpening on flat slate river rocks. I have sharpened knives on red brick just for shots and giggles. So long as the steel is around 58-59hrc you can actually get pretty decent edges off red brick. Once your around 61hrc it just won't cut the steel anymore.
