A channel about the stuff I do in my garage workshop. Mostly metal working and machining, but not always. Note that what I do on this channel is almost certainly not how it SHOULD be done, but rather how I did it, sometimes (alright often) with unintended results. Thanks for watching!
Hi Mick, happy to see you again on the workshop! Nice bolt but inconel, where did you find it ? Here in Italy almost impossible for a private, for a company more easy! A big ciao from Italy Mick, Alberto.
@hilltopmachineworks2131 Thanks! Yes AMC 360 V8. Power everything, brakes, steering, seats, locks, windows, mirrors, etc. I love it. I used to go to a local scrap yard and they had this kind of stuff.
Beautiful job. I must also agree with the others that the vehicle is awesome. As uncomfortable I am using that word nonetheless it be awesome. It’s my wife’s dream car. I would love to be able to acquire one and modernize it.(brakes and suspension at the least.) I hope you show some of that work in a video. Thanks again, Mick. Kimber.
@@MicksWorkshop must be several grades of alloy. A guy made a sword out of it. It bent every time he tapped anything with it. It wound up in my hands to straighten and heat treat straightening was easy but I couldn't find anything on heat treatment...
@@trollforge Interesting. I don't know what the stiffness is of the various grades are or how thick/thin it would be. There are several types of Inconel. According to Wikipedia: The Space Shuttle used four Inconel studs to secure the solid rocket boosters to the launch platform, eight total studs supported the entire weight of the ready to fly Shuttle system.
@@MicksWorkshop I realize that I mean the grade of the carbide. It should be something like WNMG 432 …. I am surprised how well it turned inconel, it looks like a standard grade insert judging by the coating. Was it a Chinese made insert?
The Harig 612 is a "bench top" design that sit's on top of a cabinet. It just lifts off. If you have a 618, I don't know. In the manual for the 612 there are specific instructions on how to lift it using a rod through the base and the correct way to strap it for lifting with a crane. I use an engine hoist.
I have a few questions by the way hi Mick I love the finish on the drill press table, and wonder how you achieved that. Question number two did you slot that out the adapter piece that is, with a drillbit ? Anyway, good day to you great to see a video from you. Hope to run into you in Cucamonga maybe in 25.. Kimber
Hey Kimber! The finish on the drill press came that way. No, I used a two flute carbide end mill to slot it. I didn't show the swap from the drill bit to the end mill. Yeah, I hope to get to the Bash next year, it would be great to see you again. Thanks for commenting! :-)
It's been a great tool. I would definitely buy it again. I haven't made a summary video but I've been thinking about doing a shop tour video and I could include that kind of content in it for all of the machines. I've had nothing but positive experiences with Precision Matthews. And I've paid retail for everything I have.
any chance you have a source of replacement gears? my brass gear and worm gear are toast....looks like the circlip was missing, so they got a bit loose in there...
Im curious, what do use your bandsaw for that can't be done with the evolution chop saw? It seems like the chop saw would give you fasr, clean, square cuts.
Most of the time nothing, but the chop saw makes a huge mess of large sharp very hot chips. And it's extremely loud. I'm not in a hurry so I prefer the band saw. In fact I sold my chop saw.
Have you ever measured the decibels of your mill at different rpms? I'm looking to buy the same mill from PM and I wanted to know how loud the gearhead is.
I have not measured the dB, but I have been told by several knowledgeable visitors that it was much quieter than they expected. I find it to be very quiet.
I've been a welder for over 45 years and the best thing you could do is get rid of that flux core wire and switch over to gas . You would find that you could weld much better. Flux core wire is made so you can weld outdoors on a very windy day where the wind blows the gas away . Also when using flux core wire remove the nozzle tip on your lead its not needed .
Great idea. Thanks, I will have to consider getting several: lathe, band saw (same model), and mill (future). Of course I will need executive approval.
@MicksWorkshop I will keep that in mind. Right know I am focusing on finishing my barn, my daughter getting better, and the next daughter’s e Wedding (held in the barn). Have a great day.
7:27 quick question regarding the chop saw. Is that an Evolution saw and blade? Or is it an abrasive saw with an Evolution metal cutting blade? I just bought the HF band saw and look forward to seeing your modifications/improvements. Thanks.
I was thinking of doing something similar with oxidized metal like you did with the blues metal. When you removed the bluing was the surface you revealed metallic like an in blued piece or a bit dull?
@@chrome72 I don't know. What would you oxidize it with? If I have any I would be willing to try it. I haven't tried brass at all. On aluminum all it did was cut into it, but with stainless steel it cut and it left a black finish. Normal steel it left a finish similar to the blued steel.
I have all sorts of acids that get various shades of brown and black. A pretty good oxidizer is vinegar and salt and it is fast. m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wp8CK9_PA1w.html Happy to chat patinas!
What is the most X-axis travel that you can get on this mill? PM says 15" but can it be pushed to 18" or 20"? I'm working on some other bench top machine tools and I need to cut dovetails into cast iron mill tables. Thanks!
I wish Russ would do a you tube channel. Very nice set up, it does my OCD good to see someone else that keeps there shop clean and organize. I get raged by all my friends due to how i keep my shop. They always say i clean and organized more than i work in it. But one thing about it , i dont hunt for nothing i know right where it is. love your shop Russ.
I'll let him know. For him it's not so much a hobby as it is a side gig, and he doesn't really know anything about the rest of the work involved in making videos, so he doesn't want to invest the time. He has offered however to let me record some more videos about some of the stuff he's made, like his lathe radius turner. If that's of interest I'll talk to him about it.
@@MicksWorkshop I would like to see that and I'm a big fan of shop made tools. That would be nice to see more of his work and shop made tools . thanks for the videos.
Thats very strange must be the video but i didnt see one chip at all coming off when you were trying it out. And if you cut 10 thousand a pass there should be chips going every where. At least it does on my fly cutters. I will surely give these a look.
Very interesting Mick, I hope you will follow up with more on using these cutters. Do the inserts rotate on your examples? I would be interested to see how they perform on heavier cuts and of course the price comparison.
The inserts do not rotate when in use, but like other round inserts you can loosen them and rotate them to a new cutting edge. I will definitely be using them on future projects. Hopefully I hear back from the company soon. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I like it...interesting. Seems to use a sheering action to obtain that nice finish.. Well I guess I'm off to there website.. Thanks for sharing Mick 👍👍
Thanks for the tour. Back in my college machine shop classes we wrote the programs CNC and saved them to 5 1/4" floppy disks. Then we put them in the Bridgeport reader and the mill did it's thing. I guess the tape was before the mid 80's?
Yeah tape was in the 70's and lasted until the early 80's. Punch cards were popular then too, but tape had the advantage that you could drop it and not have your program scattered all over the floor.
Great job building this up, it was good to watch and it works very well. We have been looking at these but they expensive over here, I think they are over twice the cost of our press
According to the Alumiweld web site: "ALUMIWELD is a welding rod that is able to repair any aluminum metal by using a PROPANE TORCH ! Also will repair Zinc based metals, (Pot Metal), Mag-Alloy and Galvanized Steel all with a propane torch. AlumiWeld is capable of repairing copper and brass to aluminum." Given that it is specified that it will work with materials other than aluminum, I thought I would try it to attach stainless steel to carbon steel. Worst case scenario, I need to make it again and use more traditional brazing techniques. I really doubt that it's going to come apart, I've literally banged it on the welding table and it's still stuck tight.
Why would I want to set up a dial indicator everytime and zero it out to a known height instead of grabbing a dedicated tool that is permanently set to the correct height. Obviously you don't get it.
@@MicksWorkshop dedicate a dial indicator, permanently mounted for the task. They cost less money than the steel you wasted building a crappy version of...a dial indicator
