Sir thank you. Tons of video but yours is the only one that explains in detail how to use and set up. Well done you sir helped me out. God bless you❤️!
Why do americans insist on calling this stained glass, when it is actually called Tiffany glass. By the way, Solder has an L in it. There is no such thing as a silent L. Try saying sol (as in sun) der..... A sodder is an agricultural implement for scooping or stripping a layer of topsoil and picking it up intact to lay it down as a cover growth or lawn elsewhere
As do most Americans, we all have accents, as does everyone else in the world. No we don't paint it. But I call it stained glass. You can call it whatever... Also my dictionary has this: Pronounced "sod-er." A metal alloy used to bond other metals together. I normally use a shovel or a hoe. I'm interested in watching your videos. Thanks!
@@eallen62 you can call it whatever you want, if you don't mind being wrong. The technique was actually created in the UK by an American called Louis Comfort Tiffany. It appears we in the UK have more respect for him, by acknowledging his achievement in creating a new art form.... Definitions from Oxford Languages · Learn more solder /ˈsɒldə,ˈsəʊldə/ noun noun: solder; plural noun: solders a low-melting alloy, especially one based on lead and tin or (for higher temperatures) on brass or silver, used for joining less fusible metals.
Hi - I have researched this to no end and still have not found an answer. I want to solder a diamond pattern on a large piece of flat glass. I would use copper foil and flux. I want to frame it and hang it in front of a window. Can I do this, or will soldering only work when joining two pieces of glass together? Thanks so much!
No, I am in Louisiana, and I got paid to do that panel... Or it would have been Purple and Gold! I do also have that pattern in our online shop here: edsemporium.com/index.php/product/ohio-buck-eye-pattern/
I’m new at this and have pretty much learned what I know so far from watching. Thank you so much for sharing your skills! Im seeking advice for what to do with a piece I started over a year ago set aside and forgot about. There are several issues it has one coat of shoulder very thick in places thin in others so it needs going over again and looks like I did not wash the old flux off there are places where I see small cracks between shoulder and glass. Is there anything I can do here or is this a hopeless venture 😢? If so what should I do to restart my project?
I tell students, when you solder, it must be all in one session. You cannot leave the flux on the project overnight it will ruin it. My advice would be to de-solder everything. Remove the foil. Wash in dawn and get them squeaky clean, re-foil, and the solder in 1 session... Sorry that you had to learn the hard way...
Made in the USA! Where tech companies have always sourced their electronic components...companies like Samsung, AMD, Intel, LG, Nvidia, Sony, etc, etc... Even your Weller is made in Germany.
Awesome video! I have done allot of stained glass in past & just refreshing my memory so I can get back to it. Your techniques & information is great. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the tutorial! I'm not a stained glass guy, but from considerable soldering experience I have a few corrections/comments: - lead/tin solders melt in the 360-430F range (not near 700). - 50/50 tin/lead has a *higher* melting point (liquidus ~421F) than 60/40 (liquidus ~376F). The eutectic point of tin/lead is at 62%/38%, giving a liquidus temp of 361F. - I really recommend using a wet sponge! It robs very little heat from the iron, and the wet sponge does a much better job of removing the oxidized solder "slag", keeping it off your iron and your joints. You'll find you need to re-tin/flux/sal ammoniac treat a lot less.
Point taken, I did address that in the video description. Use distilled water in your sponge. " your not a stained glass guy" "EDIT: All those years and my Dad was wrong... 60/40 alloy has a lower melting temperature (361-374 deg.F) than a 50/50 alloy (361-420 deg.F) It sure sounded correct. But I am not a chemist, I am a Professional glass artist; due to my dad's 45 years of experience, and my 15 years in this Studio. "
I think this is an excellent video. I’ve share with some of my friends who are new at this. But I like the back to look as good as the front. Why don’t you do that? Is it just economics, using less solder?
The cost of solder at the time of this video was not an issue. We have always only put a bead on the side that we will see. That is our preference. Once you get the bead on one side, you will need to speed up on the back if you decide to put a bead on it.
I really like your video. I have been lead lighting for a number of years but learned some new tricks ☺️. Just one request, if I may. Is it possible to sometimes zoom in on your work to get a closer look? It would help to see the beading, or the tacking, or up a problem. Thank you.
I really like your video. I have been lead lighting for a number of years but learned some new tricks ☺️. Just one request, if I may. Is it possible to sometimes zoom in on your work to get a closer look? It would help to see the beading, or the tacking, or fixing up a problem. Thank you.
I guess you could paint the glue onto the lead and stick it too it. you might get is metal dipped by a chrome plate shop, and have them anodize it gold.
When I use the flower (edit: I meant foiler) I find that the tape scrunches up against the wood as the glass comes back on to the table top. Have you got any ideas what's going wrong? Thanks
Hi Vanessa, not sure what you mean by flower. But, if the glass is wider than 1/8" or 3mm, then you need a wider roller for the foiler. I may have one in stock.
@@EdsEmporiumArtGlassStudio urgh autocorrect! I meant foiler! When the piece goes through the wheel thing it doesn't crimp quite enough so when the glass comes back on the ledge bit, it catches on the foil. I'm probably not explaining this very well!
