My channel is about things to do with life as a mechanic. These include, tool and product reviews, tips and tricks, and general thoughts and my opinions on things to do with the trade.
I feel like the blue threadlocker would have worked even better if it were applied according to dreadlockers directions. All you need is one drop of this stuff directly on the threads right Right about at the leading edge of where the nut is going to seat. From what I understand more threadlocker is not necessary or good with a bond.
Check your turbo hoses and fuel filters. I have had both shut me down in the past. Let me know what you find. Hope it's an easy fix. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching
HELLO THANKS FROM THE VIDEO I HAVE A CAT CHARGER AND IT TURNS ON BY ITSELF, THE USB TURNS ON AND OFF BY ITSELF, AC POWER DOES NOT WORK, EVERYTHING ELSE DOES WORK, CAN YOU HELP ME PLEASE? On
@@shanersmechaniclife3164 I think I lost my money. I don't have the receipt to exchange it. I thought that because it was a cat charger it was good, but I've seen that everyone has had problems with that device.
Thanks for reviewing this tool, but after being ready to buy one, I will have to pass. The adaptors not being retained is a non-starter. I'm not going to fumble with adaptors at every socket change like a monkey making love to a football. The directional switch jiggles like crazy when it operates and would reverse directions if it contacted anything. Ratches always contact things. Also the Torque Test channel tested one that stuttered and jammed off and on. Not ready for prime time. I am at the age where tools are becoming more or a recreational luxury. Your review and others has convinced me to go for the extended reach high speed version. I will buy a shallow socket set. I have a stubby 3/8 impact for breaking bolts loose. I really wanted to justify buying this tool, but it looks a little like it was rushed to market. Maybe the next generation?
You made some very good points. I haven't had any problems with it changing direction as of yet, but your point definitely points out the possibility. They have come out with locking adapters to address the adapters pulling out. Let's wait and see what the gen2 is like... if they make one. Thanks for watching and I appreciate your feedback.
My truck did the trailer brake warning. Then it also made my Stabilitrak and ABS lights come on. They cleared themselves after driving a short distance without the trailer being plugged in. What coud be the problem ?
Sounds like a poor connection or an intermittent short to power or ground. Intermittent problems are the absolute worst to find. Hope it works out for you. Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching.
A lot of Allison's disables a gear if it sees a problem. You may have a problem with 2nd, 3rd, or something that's shared with both. I would check the wiring and grounds. Did it have any trouble codes? Let me know what you find. Thanks for watching.
I really wish that the Philadelphia.Police and surrounding areas would contact us in the towing and recovery industry, especially a serruptible company, is that are 20 years or more in business.There's and authorized police towing companies.We got your back as it is our industry. We towing and recovery industry business are more than happy to help the police and community members as we do every day as emergency response workers. Seriously reach out to us and we will be able to provide you the best opportunity to make a difference in the ongoing issues of car meets as we deal with car accidents and the carnage every day and most of us are gear heads and we have community outreach abilities and in the car and truck world. Yall keep up the good work and know we tow operators have your 6 always. Be safe and don't be afraid to reach out to your partners in emergency response personnel we the towing and recovery businesses are the best for the job in my opinion. Stay safe out there and keep up the good work. OooRahhh 🫡🇺🇸👮♂️🪖
I saved this kit to my account because, it looks so beneficial! Now i am definitly interested in seeing the tools from the telecom world. Especially if a toner & probe can be had for a 10th of the cost. As a good back up, i saved this. Thank you!
My Fluke 3000 has only special probes for telecom and date, if you could make up some automotive connectors to freenup your hands it would be about the same but no little arrow or light.
Good fix - finally. Milwaukee normally gets it right, but this handle thing was not one of their finer moments. I agree, you’ve got to be careful buying aftermarket packout mods. Lots of junk out there.
I have disassembled my whole intake and exhaust side, and took the turbos off (twin turbo system) and looked for a leak. Also replaced all old rubber lines with new ones. I couldnt find any leak, yet the car wont boost past 14 psi anymore (normal is 22 psi), and when leak testing (like in your video) I was only able to build up 4 psi or so, and that fell down quickly too. Even connected a smoke generator but the smoke came out the exhaust only. Did a compression test after that, but all was fine. The only thing I found was that the turbo wheels have quite some play if you press the shaft up and down or left and right (back and forth is no movement at all). And they also click when doing that. One turbo (the one that is most prone to failure from other drivers experience) was also leaking a bit oil at the combined oil feed and drain line, or maybe where the turbo housings are connected with a spring ring. Its hard to tell, since they are close together. But the whole lower part of the turbo is full of oily soot and before I removed them I saw a drop of oil forming on that area. I also had more oil in the intercooler pipes than normal ("puddles" formed between rubber connectors, and dripped out when I took off the pipes). What do you think is the cause? The play in the turbo shaft?
Thanks many! I have a 1998 3.3L Nissan Pathfinder. 175,000 miles. Great condition. Stock. My tank gets alarmingly pressurized when driven a couple hundred miles. I don't have any codes. My Nissan gas cap visually inspects clean and good. Does not leak. I even disconnected all hoses on the EVAP system and cracked the gas cap. No codes were made either. How can that be? I drove it dozens of miles to test. To see if the missing stopped or codes would appear. No codes, except random misfire. Every now and then, but the motor is obviously missing mildly to badly all the time. It gets worse for a while when I refuel. For a few dozen miles. When this system started doing this, I started getting a random misfire code at the same time. These may be unrelated. Not sure. I have verified purge valve works, hoses are clear now. One was dirty about 2" clogged at the canister for the purge line. It looked like charcoal dust. All other hoses clear. Any ideas? I was going to remove the plug from the cannister ambient vent valve and see what that did. It should toss a code right? And make the valve open, from my understanding? I don't want the tank to pressurize like that again. It will spew and hiss for about 6 minutes when cap is removed. I've never seen a vehicle do it this badly before. Thanks!
I have a problem with remote on my Mustang. I do lock the car, everything is shut from hood to trunk. To try remote start I press the buttons on the remote, I see the remote flashing red light. But I can't see any response from the car no light or horn. I have changed the car battery as well as the remote battery and there is no check engine light I seek help!🥲 I dunno if it could the reason but I can't see the P of Parking in illuminated in red as the others if I shift to R,N,D,S. I can see them illuminated except the P.
