@Billy Goat , I'm trying to set the gains on a pioneer gm dx871 and I have a 600$ 2 channel oscilli scope that goes to my 4k$ matco scanner and while setting the gain @50hz 0 db signal it's not clipping past 49+ volts ( scope complains about being over 50 volts )and it's got me so confused. so I'm currently running @ 32.5 volts and the sine wave is nice and clean . What are your thoughts? As far as just purely setting it by a non clipping waveform, i mean can i justify running higher voltages cause the waveform is clean and not clipping at lets say 42 volts @2 ohm should have this amp pushing 900 rms frm a 500 rms rated amp and this is what's confusing me is the clean waveform until just about 48- 49 starts developing spikes just before and after the peaks so i know that it's starting to clip but dam near 50 volts.
Personally i'd say run it as high as you feel comfortable as long as your sub can handle the higher power. If your sub is "cheap" enough, have fun, but if you're going way above RMS i'd model your sub in WinISD and make a box that can protect your sub from going over Xmech excursion where damage happens. Or: if you have a bass knob, then max the amp (cleanly), turn the knob to max and plug it in. This way you can control gain.without going into clipping territory
When I set my gain on my amp I used a multi meter because the kicker volt sheet that comes with my amp says for 1 ohm 400watts the volts should be 20.00v. I do have a o scope but I used it to find out when my oem radio clips so i send a clean signal to my LC2i pro
That's the perfect application of the Oscope 👍🏻 I would still use it on the amp output to verify that it's a clean waveform. There's absolutely nothing wrong with setting gain with a multimeter but keep in mind that the lower the impedance an amp sees from a speaker, the lower its damping factor (control over the speaker). This makes it very important to have a clean signal
Thanks for the reply yeah I'm new to this and it gets confusing to me. I actually think I'm under powering my subs also. They hit hard I'm running two skar 10s 200w rms each and my amp is a kicker 400.1 when doing my math I didn't add both speaker rms. If I do 400 squared times 4 for dvc 4ohm I should be around 40.00hz I'm only at 20 so I may have to up the amp to a 1200 watt and I'd probably run them at 2ohm to get more bass control what you mentioned. Ugh help! Lol
@@Mr.Towboater87 you kinda lost me a bit on your math....you can't determine a frequency based on a voltage/impedance equation. 40Hz, though is generally the most "powerful" frequency even with the Bass Boost off. The 400w you have right now would be fine but if you can get an amo that can deliver the same wattage at a higher impedance it would, imo, be better
Look up forddenial on diyma or AVS, i have a classified where i screenshotted (basic) measurements 😁 Sharpish dip at around 150hz but that could be because i did it in a 3car, cinderblock garage with metal doors
It's already -12db passive @80hz inside the cabs. The kit has that little amp but it can easily be paired with an SA-25 pushing an Epique driver as a sub.
I specifically designed these to operate as standalone 2ch bookshelf speakers, don't have the PN measurements in the video but the range goes well below 80hz (hpf) at a -12db slope using a 70hz port. In a small/medium room a sub is not needed, I assure you, and the 30x30w amp I list in the description is more than adequate
Back then i had Scanspeak D3004/602000 tweets and PHD FB6.1 midbasses and an Adire 12KH501. Now i've swapped the PHD's to Scanspeak 18M4631T00 midbasses and the Adire is replaced by a pair of JBL GTO804's in the back seat area
The gain control knob is exactly what a gain control is by allowing more or less input voltage! both knob and dial on AMP do the exact same thing.. which is exactly what the volume control does at the head unit what else is going on!?? .nothing.. .
You are about 1/4 right in entirely the wrong way. The bass knob (which is what I assume you mean) is a voltage regulator aka "gain knob" of sorts BUT it is not the PRIMARY gain control....I don't really care whether it shows the voltage or is just a knob. You NEVER use the bass knob to set gains because if you bump it you'll start overpowering and blowing things. The gain control on the amp is used to set max output voltage to protect against clipped signal to the speaker. You note the max volume on the HU/source device to prevent sending a clipped signal to the amp. IN NO WAY SHAPE OR FORM IS A GAIN CONTROL EQUAL TO A VOLUME DEVICE. Kindly keep that malarky to yourself.
@@BillyGoatAudioInstalls the gain control on the amp sets the base level of gain !!!! Please get in contact with reality sir. The bass remote level knob biases the difference between input voltage and base level, Head unit volume control increases or decreases input voltage all three are Gains whether you like it or not.. .
@@bobadingo From Google: No, the bass knob on an amp does not change the gain. The bass knob controls the mix level of lower frequencies in the audio spectrum. It adds bass boost and clips the signal. Turning the bass knob down changes the relationship between the bass and treble frequencies. Gain refers to the loudness of an input. It controls how much of the output from an instrument reaches the preamp section of the amplifier
@@bobadingoVolume is the perceived loudness of the music you hear. Gain is how much a signal is increased / decreased by an amplifier www.reddit.com/r/audiophile/comments/ptgwdz/help_understanding_gain_vs_volume/
When your doing a 4 ch amp bridge to two. Do you set the gain each channel or by total . Example the front is 200rms and the rear is 100rms do I do square root to 300 and set the gain for both sides or do each channel
It depends how the bridging is set up on your amp. GENERALLY SPEAKING (caps for liability purposes, read your manual) if the amp is in "4/2 bridged mode" the Front L/R gain would control the entire output for the respective channels. You shouldn't need to set gain for each channel first. THIS IS NOT A GUARANTEE FOR ALL AMPS. READ YOUR MANUAL. NOT MY FAULT IF YOUR AMP BLOWS.
I don't run a head unit. I also kinda cheat because the DSP has an input clip light in the program so i can spot clipping without needing to measure. You can make your own rca adapter using speaker wire or amazon multimeter wires and solder on a female rca end. Then you can watch for clip on one channel from source and then check the other to see if it's clipping too
I talked with a guy that install car sound for 30 years, and I said that the correct way to set gains is with a Osciloscope and he said to me that he does that by ear and it's the best way. When I measured the voltages that he adjusted by ear, they are much higer than the correct ones, so one thing that happens is that if your player have a max volume level of 40, on volume 27 it's already be much louder. I see that there's a lot of people that don't want to change, and maybe are adjusting amps wrong for a long time.
Unfortunately this is a common occurrence. It is a fact that it's almost impossible to set gains properly, especially on subwoofers, by listening for distortion. There's been quite a few times where I've had someone brag that their amp is so powerful it blows subs or complain that their speakers keep blowing and ask for a recommendation on stronger speakers....for giggles i had a few people let me check their gains and then piss them off because I show them with my o-scope that whoever set the level had the gain turned up so high that their speakers were getting almost nothing but a distorted signal. it's cool that you get louder sooner on the volume knob...but at what cost?
I appreciate it! This was just a quick one-take so i didn't have the time to do any fancy editing like in some of my other videos, but i appreciate your feedback
Defintely needed this video in my time of need. Keep up the good work brother. Informative (If you want more viewership, short videos with editing cuts help alot in the algorithim, and yet for the same videos about soldering tips)
I agree that short vids get more views, I guess I'm just oldschool and would rather get all the info into the vid than appease the algorithm. Idk, I'm weird lol
No, los subs pequeños son de 4ohm y los grandes no tienen energía porque son radiadores pasivos. Reemplazan puertos. Mi estéreo es viejo y no puede manejar 2ohm
So why are my 5yr old ryobi drill and 1yr old M18 drill (non-Fuel) still going strong and are used for much harder jobs than screwing into pre-drilled 2x4's? Also, grammar
That's not always the case. There have been some cases i've heard of where the light was flashing way below clip or even didn't start flashing until deep clipping and a maxed amp gain. With a scope you get to see the signal you're working with and, keep in mind, clip lights don't show if your signal is heavily distorted 👍🏻
Hello. I have a bass problems. Settings not help for me, all audio system compontents are 100% Ok (I changed several times RCA, AMPS, HEAD UNITS, SPEAKER WIRES, SUBS) Problem is for shit bass from doors and subs. I hass two amps for this. The settings don't help much or even not at all.. Very small diferences on LPF HPF and time trials on HU is no diferences.. My guesses: its a ground loop ( i only have ground from ground wire but from my tests the ground goes somewhere) Are ground for body amp, can degreade bass? My amps are good powered 300a alt and 80ah lithium, so, power its not a problem. Or i must instal and play only from DSP?
There's a few things that can be causing these problems if I understand them correctly. Door Bass: the best way to get better output from your doors is to spend the time with sound deadener. I like KnuKonceptz KnoKnoise Kolossus and have almost an entire box worth covering both of my doors. The first step after taking your door panels apart is to clean them thoroughly. After that you should make some panels out of wood or lead sheet to cover the openings going into the interior of the door. After that cover the door with deadener to create a (kinda) sealed box out of your doors. That will improve your front response tremendously. As for your sub...there are alot of variables. Start by setting your HPF as low as it will go (usually 10-20Hz) and your LPF around 80-90Hz. That's the average frequency response of the sub. From there, if you have a sealed enclosure, make sure it's sealed. I'll post a vid on how to gain-set subwoofer amps (and others) soon. 👍👍
@@BillyGoatAudioInstalls Hello back! This problem is very weird but Door bass is the same problem of subwoofer bass. Its not polarity Sometimes bass is back, bass is louder, much more soft, diference is on subwoofer and doors (I have one amp for doors and one amp for subs) My subs is EXCURSION SXX 15v2 200l netto and 32 hz port. My old subs: XIon 15 in 110l netto and 35hz tuning and clarion sw 3012, problem the same! Not problem sub. MY car is mazda 6, in mazda 323f (OLD CAR) Problem is the same! MY roof is soundproffed with bitmat ab 25 X3 and Trunk X2 and K9s. There was no difference after soundproofing (As for the sound of bass) So: IF bass back, bass can lost after next engine start or is weaker or weird. Sometimes bass is better if: Windows up down up down several times, or, if i change port subwoofer (SOMETIMES) ( I have 32, 25 and 40hz ports) or more situations.. Sounds like Ground problem. Gains its not this and i no have diferences in sound quality Subsonic (Low cutting ) I have on minimum, and lpf 63hz, sett to 80 or 90 its small diference (Settings from hud, on amp i hass full) Now i have this: IF volume is low (not loud listein) bass is not good but its not tragedy, more volume bass stop, but music goes up, more more voulme bass is empty, rubly... So.. My suggesions its: -Small Ground loop on one of amps, what enters the signal path, (ABOUT to 0,100volts) -Distorted RCA signal, but i dont know why. on all Head Units... All bass boost, loudnes and more is off (zero). My want to buy osciloscope and test signal. My Grounds is good: One 50mm2 from alt to body, and from body to Lithium One from engine to body, and to lithium and nearest from Lithium (Max one meteter) 2x 50mm to body. Amps From terminal lithium, and Head unit 2x 4mm wire powers from lithium. Any questions? Thanks :)
That sounds like a connection/signal issue but it doesn't sound like a ground issue. I would say first check your connections are clean and solid then definitely get an oscilloscope and check your gains. You can't eyeball, guess or use a multimeter to properly set them.
@@BillyGoatAudioInstalls Hello! Sorry for my questions :) but if you have time, read this please. This problem is about 5 years in two cars, By this time, i removed my system about 10 times. 2 weeks ago i removed wires from battery and see connections, very nice and clean. Bass is back not for first play, but next play. - Today i removed all ground wires from: Two amps, and HU. Rca from amps are removed. I tested a voltage and... (WFT) Amps have voltage above 14 volts and no droping (only big amp slowly down np. 14,500 v to 14,448v in 10 seconds) Okay, so i caught short wire to my hand and on bigger amp + and - i did short circut. And i go to samller am. Voltage now very fast droping, now have 5 volts and drop one volt in 5-8 seconds). Bigger amp is charging 0,500 to 0,800 volts in 20 seconds. Its not normaly? I have amps instaled on 20mm WOOD and 16mm long screws, so no problem. 2 weeks ago i have Ground loop on smaller amp, screews under him served a lot ground, okay, i isolate this with BITMAT ab 25. and i from one page I increased heigh amplifier,from not to touch bitmat, because amplifier sometimes it would loading myself.. Bigger amp to same, after tried shortening all screws, and good isolate, sometimes bigger amp is charging but not much, about 0,000 to 0,0100volts. Smaller amp ultimately not charged. 0,000volts after night. Okay i connecting everything, and first play, not good diference, on next playing music bass is better.. And today i know, problem is still extist. What explains my problems (NP. Bass is ok, i leave car and sit back in car, bass lost) or more situations. NP. Closing the door, can charge amplifier about 0,000 to 0,002 volts.. I tested smaller amp with removedrca, + and - wires, only remote connected but remote not gived signal power, and it was charged, so its not problem of wires. in a few days i want to install amps to my subwoofer, to be far from all grounds. Doesn't that seem strange to you? I couldn't believe my eyes I borrowed another multimeter, and the readings are very similar
I have an Audiocontrol ACX-BT1 bluetooth module that is connected to my DSP. I use this because the JVC head unit was sending a bunch of noise into the system and I traced the source to the HU. The fewer actual connections you have in the system, the less possibilities you have for interference introduction. My module is directly beneath the DSP on the back side of the amp wall and there is only a 6in rca between the output plugs of the module and the Helix. Also the power/ground of the module is wired through the board to the Helix power/ground terminals. As short as possible.
I had commented about inquires for u if you are interested in a custom built 5.1 surround sound made from the hardwoods of michigan. With a 18 inch subwoofer
All the speakers will be mounted inside the enclosures with no screws showing , crossed over with the mid and tweeters properly, and i can build according to your liking if for example u wanted to reach down below 20hz for the ultimate movie experience.
@@annihilationindustries1990 Honestly I 1) don't have the space and 2) can make it myself. Sorry. I have a whole mess more gear laying around and am in the process of making this setup into a 7.1
@@annihilationindustries1990 Again, so can I. there are no screws showing in the center/SL/SR baffle either. It isn't THAT hard to do. These are all made from 1/2" pine ply that i had laying around the garage as a "why not? I'm bored anyway" project and I have a sawmill/lumberyard that my family has been going to for wood for almost 40 years. As good as your stuff looks, I'm good
