Droidbuilders UK is to compliment all droid building groups UK & EU and have a hub of like-minded people working towards creating new and exciting builds. This isn’t a replacement for the R2 builder club but is here and set up by the members who already cross paths with other builds. Groups such as the UK focused BB8, R2 Builders, Mouse Droids, DO, BT1, and so on are added underneath this umbrella.
I want to build my own T3 droid. Is there still a T3 buildersgroup alive somewhere? The link to the website doesn't seem to work anymore. I would love to get my hands on the sounds and the stl files from the head. I'm starting with the drive system now and hope to post my first youtube video about it soon.
Hey there, would you be interested in making a video with us one day at this location? We went there a few weeks back but had no luck finding the locations. Or if busy, would you mind helping us find the locations?
Hi Steve I'm a late builder on R2, in fact im still building R2D2. this video is the most explainable video for wiring up, but I'd like to know how would the Teeces set up, can they be connected to this Padawan 360 or is it a seperate connection. I know nothing about electronics, this video as explained alot and also did your pre install the sounds on the sd card first. great video thanks
An amazing build. I've saved the Thingiverse page as a favorite to go back and build one once I'm done with my R2D2 Droid. The R/C car you're using is very expensive and I think I'll try a cheaper car that fits the body even if I have to adjust some of the support pieces on the inside. Maybe what you could have done was build cross bars that slide down the inside of the droid to accommodate different scale R/C cars from 1/10 to 1/12, etc. I know the wheel base changes when cars are scaled down so that may be an issue. Thanks for making the video, sound quality was a little low so I had to turn the volume up, but then the darn commercials were blasted loud.
Hi Lee, j am having the flipsky 75100 for my e scooter, it works all fine till i brake, it seems it makes a lot of cutsoff while braking. Accelerating is smootli, braking toggeling, i dont know how to explain, for me its cutting because its reaches the 85 max regen amp. but i wont set it higher. i think its schould break smoothly in every setti g, and not making cut offs. greatings from italy
A year on, the answer is "Go get your Pledge." hahahaha.... I was like, "pledge"? Like for a charity drive I wondered? Then realized he's not a power droid as we've all presumed, but an oversized furniture polisher -in a sandcrawler of all places. Very nice. I'll be in London come April for my prize. (As long as it's not taking a beating for spoiling the surprise 13 months later. lolz. Thanks to my Novation Rhythm. (Though Is suppose any sampler could have done it. And THANKS for cleaning the clip up as it was leading me to "Don't Walk" with all the other noises. That presumption you mentioned.)
How lovely to come across this and to see Lynn discussing her amazing career. I was lucky enough to know Lynn a very loooong time ago and she was a truly fab person in every respect.
I love to see that someone else made their R2-D2 data port accept the Death Star plans as well. I really like that it's connected to your periscope. I hope you don't mind if I take that idea and try it out on my R2.
I don't understand why there isn't a PC download for this. It's perfect! and would work great if I can link the audio to my microphone in discord for voice calls. I run a Tabletop Star Wars RPG and this would go a long way to bring in more immersion to the players.
I will add a comment in to avoid any confusion: Flipsky and the VESC-project are not linked entities. The VESC-Project is run by Mr. Vedder, original hardware sold by Trampaboards LTD. Please also consider to donate to Vedder, so that the software can actually be developed further. Third parties do not sponsor the software development! The hard work is all in the software! The setup shown in the video is terribly wrong. Y-PPM wiring should not be done, since that will create a ground loop in between the two controllers. Such loops can and will kill the ESCs. Always use Opto decouplers in between the ESC and the receiver, so that GND is not shared. The reciever can only get power from one source and the other devices need an opto decoupler on the PPM line.
HI Frank. Thank you for the information! I am running a number of setups using this method without any problems, although I am not saying you're wrong. Could you share a link to a suitable 'Opto Decoupler' so to help other out? Cheers! Lee
@@DroidbuildersUK they might survive it for a while, especially if it is an older HW 4.xx based design. However, it should not be done this way. For good Opto decouplers I would also need to do some research. Best is to use CAN anyway.
