In March of 2018 Ellen and Scott whimsically tossed around the idea of selling everything we own so that we could buy an RV and travel around the country full-time.
After 4 years of planning, preparing, getting inspiration from others on RU-vid doing the same thing, and eliminating the debt that was holding us back, we sold our house and most everything we owned and headed out in October 2022.
We hope this turns out to be the fulfillment of the dream we have, it entertains, and perhaps even inspires those that may want to do the same. We will be the proof that anyone can do it.
And to have a smaller vehicle to tool around in is really handy. Just since July we put 8800 miles on the SUV -- using 87 gas. Big savings there alone, plus easier to park, Ellen gets to go where she wants when I'm out on tech calls, etc. Its a win for us in a big way.
Yes it does. The exposed ductwork does radiant some heat into the area- but there are some substantial gaps and holes between the frame and walls that let cold in as well, so the net effect of the passive heating is probably negligible in the end. .
Thank you for this video, it set me on the right track for a Renegade Vienna. The Mira to Eclipse upgrade is quite a bit more money these days, but I think it's worth it.
Hello, Sorry I don't. You should be able to call your dealer. They can usually work with Forest River/Riverstone to locate the proper part number for you. All I did was ask my dealer to get us the carpet for the 23' model year 39RKFB -- the floor plan and measurements did not change.
We are trying to do the desk area , but we have a Riverstone 442MC and we only have 3 drawers, we have that are loose but after removing the screws the other side won't budge????
Keep on looking for screws. Something has to be holding it in. You can send me photos of what you have an I may be able to guide you. okletsgorv@gmail.com
Did you have to cut any of the depth of the vinyl? We are in the process of installing this in our 39RKFB now and the new vinyl overhangs the front of the slide more than the carpet did. We didn’t realize it was that much bigger and didn’t make note of where the carpet usually hits when the slide is closed so we don’t know if we need to take any of the depth off the new vinyl. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
I think I just posted a comment on your FB post on the RS group. You do have to cut the depth, but only at the edge that touches the big window wall. You do not have to cut the depth of the flap - that is the right depth and will overhang properly. You do have to cut the overall width as well of course - equal amount from each side, but doing that does not affect the overhang depth of course.
Thanks for the video.. any idea on how to change the go power specs. I want to add more solar, more solar controllers etc and have it show up on the screen. Thoughts? Thanks!
Hello, Thank you for watching! We're glad you watched the video and took the time to comment. I'm not sure where to get those brackets, but I think they are fairly generic. I looked to see if I saved the new ones, but I must have tossed them or misplaced them -- otherwise I would have sent them to you. Here is a link to a generic set I found on Amazon. You can always order them, check them for fit and return them if they don't work out for you. Sorry I can't be of more help. amzn.to/4cbzBYi
Yes, it’s kind of counter intuitive. But it’s typical of public water supplies. The logic is that human bacteria and human access is a lot harder to control & police than boats. It’s a well documented perspective through the country as well as other nations.
I just drove from Battle Pass, through the forest, to Steamboat Springs. It was fabulous! Highly recommended snowy mountain range pass and mirror lake on the way. (About an hour from your location) Interesting, Edison came to Rawlins for an eclipse and got the idea for a light bulb while fishing/fishing line. Just before you get to the continental divide. The roads were just bare, forest, dirt roads but worth getting my car dirty because all the snow melt running into beautiful streams and creeks! Suffice it to say I got some super fabulous photos. When I arrived in Steamboat Springs Colorado, the scene was just as fabulous! There's a beach? That makes me laugh, "The beaches of Cheyenne," subject of country music songs!
I love the analysis - for the past nine years little by little I have learned how important all the weights are. The Escapees will weigh all your wheels, etc which could really confirm your data. Unless, you are a man god and know how to weigh each wheel on a CAT scale. That is above my pay grade.
Thanks for sharing this. This baffles me when I see the limited stuff your cargo area. Have you weighed the RV with nothing onboard? What are you carrying (weights or something? that makes it so heavy? Like - taking all your belongings out and then weighing? Does this have MORryde IS? (That is +650 after install). I just purchased a 2018 38MB -and I need to weigh it, after I pick it up. I have very minimum stuff in it right now and I want to add IS - but that is 650 lbs right there. So, 19,204 is my max weight but I want to stay no more than 18,500. Supposedly, when they roll it off the assembly they put the actual dry weight on the door - that should have all the furniture and appliances. You are very knowledgeable and I am new to Riverstone - have you confirmed the dry weight with the door sticker? We don’t fulltime so I will probably be more lean.
Okay, I just scrolled to the spreadsheet section and I see your trailer door weight of 17,943. So - at 19,720…you have 1,777 lbs of stuff in the camper. So, to haul around almost one ton without water in the tanks seems a little high to me. I watched your RV tour - you are not loaded to the gills in that video.
It is indeed puzzling where the weight is coming from. It overall, the fact of the matter is that the weight of things add up and it’s kind of tough to estimate. Generally things weigh more than we typically estimate. Just in computer/network/camera gear we probably have close to if not over 100lbs. Dishes, pots, pans, glasses, silverware - likely another 100lbs. The pantry items, add another 50lbs. And none of these things individually are really heavy, and there’s not terribly more than we need. Just in sugar & flour for cookies is 2-3 lbs. ;) Then we have 3lbs of coffee. My point is, just the little things that typically don’t get considered as being heavy on their own do add up quickly. And you’re right we are not loaded excessively in terms of the amount of stuff we have. In fact we travel much lighter than many people we know. Unfortunately we did not weigh when we were new and completely empty, so we’ve got no idea of the total weight of what we are carrying. I am tempted to empty everything out and get a weight. It’s frustrating to me not to have that empty weight as a reference. Oh, and then we have a couple of suitcases for when we air travel. Those empty weigh another 20-30lbs. The struggle is real and continues! Thank you for watching.
@@okletsgorv Yes - it all adds up and in a hurry it seems. I think as tedious as emptying out the RV (moving day x2 right) it would be educational due to the amount you are over would certainly warrant the efforts and give you the ground zero truth. Then, if you wanted to be really deliberate on your home scale you could pick things up and weight the categories (collectively) and record the number until you get to the max weight allowed. Then, anything over that on travel days whatever the amount you listed for the available cargo in the truck could be packed up in totes and make up the difference so you are under your max combined. It really makes me wonder if the door sticker is accurate! For those of us who do take the time to weigh and consider these things I think we are ahead of the game and I have learned the weight game has a way of humbling us.
have a Riverstone Reserve 3850RK. The lights above the bed are only controlled by the FireFly switch that is near the door exiting to down stairs. The light is at full brightness and the switch is not a variable switch. Very inconvenient to get up and turn out the reading lights. Has anyone discovered a way to fix this issue. I contacted Firefly and they said I cannot change from a on/off switch to a variable. Moving the switch to beside the bed would fix the access (the switch is blue tooth), but not lower the brightness.
Thank you for watching. I know just a bit about the FireFly system. As an RV Tech, I do have plans to go to the FireFly Certification Training in the next couple of months. Perhaps I’ll find the secrets. I’m not buying FireFly’s claim that the switch cannot be changed to variable. It probably can be done technically, but it probably requires a change to the floor plan coding and that’s not something than is user configurable. That’s my best guess.
@@okletsgorv Thanks for input. I think I have found a possible soliction. Install a 12V dome lite that is dimmable at the touch. Move the switch to the wall beside the bed, which can be done because they are Bluetooth. I have not install the lights yet, but I found them on Amazon.
Sounds like your fifth wheel, like many others, was built with axles and a frame that isn’t suitable for the weight. You’re 600 pounds over the gvwr limit but that limit is still above what it should safely weigh. A commenter above mentioned the 85% “rule” and I think that should really apply to the trailer’s weight vs. gvwr.
This one is built to handle the weight of itself fine. The frame is rated for 21K and the axles 16k, and they set the GVWR at 19084, which when accounting for pin weight keeps the weight within range for the axles. The problem is that despite all of that being in spec, the CCC is low and it’s our cargo that puts it over. If we reduced by the 600 all would be in line with specs. The 85% rule is a good idea but it is just opinion. Albeit a good opinion, it not being a regulation there’s obviously nothing compelling people or manufacturers to abide by it - sad but true.
@@okletsgorv yes, the big problem is that the ccc is so low and unrealistic. Looks like you are traveling sparsely already so getting rid of 600 pounds is not so simple.
Exactly. There are many owners of the same unit that have similar challenges. We’ve made inquiries to Riverstone to see if they will be making changes in next model years, e.g. adding another axle, but so far there are no plans for that. I’m guessing it would also involve a change in frame, so that’s obviously a big cost difference that would be tough to justify if they can’t hold margin without raising the MSRP and resulting street price beyond their target price point for the market/demographic this model appeals to.
Wanted to Take just a second and say thank you so much for all your detailed instructions. I followed your step-by-step procedure installed Starlink very similar to the way you installed it and it’s been working wonderfully. Once again, thank you so much. It was greatly appreciated. Thanks for taking the time.
My personal rule of thumb is that my trailer's GVWR is never more than 85% of my truck's tow rating. It is absolutely dangerous to tow a trailer that your truck cannot safely control. If your bumping up to your tow vehicle's towing capacity, you're simply wrong and dangerous.
In our case the GVWR of the RV is 19084, and the tow rating of the truck is 34000 - which is substantially a marketing number based on the ideal configuration to achieve such capacity - it would never be able to tow a 34000 5th wheel safely. Theoretically the heaviest 5er it could tow would be 26950 assuming 20% to the pin, a drive axle rating of 9750 and thats not even accurate because that would put the the weight of the truck over its GVWR by 1090. So your 85% rule of thumb would not work in that instance as it would be grossly over and thus grossly unsafe. Using your 85% rule of thumb that would mean the RV GVWR could be as high as 28900, (85% of 34000) which of course in our instance is considerably more than the 5ers 19084 GVWR. If it were at 28900 as a 5th wheel (and fully loaded to that capacity) that would theoretically put 5780 (pin weight of roughly 20% of the trailers weight) on the rear axle in addition to the standing 4360 on the drive axle when the truck is alone --- thus putting the total weight of 10140 on the drive axle which is 390 over the rating of the trucks drive axle of 9750 - which would be unsafe of course. As we stand right now, we are under on drive by 1590, under on the steer by 540, under on the trailer axles by 200, under on the GCWR by 13580 and under the truck's GVWR by 380. We are over on the trailers GVWR by 636lbs, but again under on the trailer axles by 200. The truck has more than enough stopping power for the trailer, and the trailer axles, spindles, bearings and brakes have plenty of stopping and support for the capacity when towing. But over on the Trailer's GVWR by 636 is over not matter what, which is the point of the video, and reason why we are endeavoring to reduce cargo in the RV by that amount. I'm not sure what you mean by bumping up the tow vehicles tow capacity. The numbers are the numbers and have been collected from the door, the manufacturer's spec sheet and the actual weights from the scales. There is not wishful thinking here on our part I assure you.
poison is never a good idea. mice or other animal will eat and a dog, cat, owl or something else could eat the dead mice or rat. I guess you can call that a toofer but that's not good. no poison!
I've heard that mentioned but have not tried it. I can see (smell) why it would work. I wonder why its not more popular on retail shelves available as a deterrent. Do you know where it can be purchases as a pest deterrent?
I contacted Firefly about upgrading Mira to Eclipse. Their response: Currently your coach is not setup for Eclipse that would be a custom program at $1,775.00. Time frame would be around 16 weeks lead time!
Ouch! Definitely not worth that! At that price I’d probably just figure out how to leave an iPad type device running the app in the RV and access it remotely from my phone.
Very unrealistic RV Mfgs rate "Recreational Vehicles" to always have empty tanks. Additionally those Mfg numbers assume your pin weight is ALWAYS on the pin - which anyone with more than 2 brain cells knows is not true. Bumps, chucking, etc -- all that weight is constantly kicked back to the axles. Long story short almost zero RVs are street legal empty on the lot. edit: which I think is intentional so the Mfg can always say "you overloaded it" and avoid all responsibility for anything ever
Why were you not in the truck when you weighed it? Aren't you normally in it when you're driving it, or do you know some levitation trick that I do not? :)
I run behind it! No reason really, other than just looking for the "curb weight" albeit a bit modified in our case as we do have some cargo loaded, i.e. tools, etc. I know my weight so can just add in as necessary if I think we're that close.
you CAN NOT be within specs EVER if you carry needed personal items/misc in the rv even with empty fluid tanks.... AND why this is why it is crucial to upgrade axles to the max at time of order because of it!!! the weight ratings will just not add up and it has been a major head scratcher for years on how they are calculated, but initially when these rigs were built they were not as heavy as today nor were folks dragging all the junk they do in them cause folks were not staying for the duration's that they are today.... camping used to be short term, that is no longer the case but the ratings have not changed to allow for the real world we live/camp in!! the DOT answer is this; you ONLY have TWO options if you are caught; 1- it is a 5 cent per pound fine OR 2- you will have to ditch gear to come into allowed weight rating now, can it happen-YES but the chances are low unless you are required to roll on the scale, but the worry is not DOT, the worry is for yourself and the possible safety dangers that can happen if the weight gets outta control, mainly tire/axle failure which would lead to a bad day..... but u can only do sooo much to carry what you need, unfortunately that stuff adds up and there is a reason it is brought along, stay safe out there 🤠
I know several people/couples that full-time with everything they own and still have plenty of CCC in the RV. Granted, they have significantly down sized and when they first started they probably had plenty to make their setup overweight. But your point that people have more and tote more is definitely true. Many can’t part with the things they don’t “need”. Absolutely on point - it’s better to be concerned about your own and other’s safety than being stopped by the DOT. The problem is, that people consider being stopped by the DOT is rare, like you mention. They take that as a pass to be overweight and give no consideration to the safety of themselves, their families or others on the road.
One thing to consider is the weight of stone countertops. Also if your cabinetry to made from melamine it is much heavier than plywood. Tile back splash and floor tile is very heavy too. Hope that helps.
Fortunately we don’t have the stone countertop or melamine cabinets. We do have backsplash in the kitchen - doing the calculations on that it’s estimated to add less than 20lbs.
Hi Marc, Correct but not when hitched though which is when it matters, because of course 20% or so of the weight is being transferred to the truck. Hitched on weighing #1 was 4105, and at weighing #2 was 3950. When unhitched most of the weight is taken by the leveling jacks and not on the wheels or tires of course. So basically take what is on the axles hitched and divide by 4. Weigh #2 15800/4 = 3950, Weigh #1 16420/4 = 4105. Therefore when being towed each wheel is being subjected to the 15800/4 as that is the total on the axles.
You're welcome and thank you for watching and commenting. It is a very easy process, but the device is surely expensive. I hope you can find a better price than I did! I do like the peace of mind it provides and rationalizing that as justification for the cost!
thanks for the video, I have same issue with my 39RKFB but when I follow the homedepot link it take s me to a much different product which contains a lot of extra parts like wood for the side jams. Is it possible that the link or part number may be different?
I just tried the link again myself and it brought me to the correct item. Not sure what the issue could be. Try looking up on Home Depot using these numbers. Internet # 204323544 Model # 12610 Store SKU # 1000017096
thanks, found it. FYI for those looking for this part, Homedepot has a similar pocket door kit but much more expensive with many parts you don't need. thanks again for the video!
That would get rid of the surprise for us but not solve the problem for us. We’d still have to get the bucket and dispose of whatever is there - and she just ain’t up for that. ;)
This is a great video! I am looking for some advice from anyone that has any… We have a brand new Jayco Jayflight Bungalow RLTS Destination Trailer that we purchased in April. The first time we used it the igniter on stove went out and the oven stopped working. The breakers kept kicking off so we disconnected the stove and discovered that the wires had melted. An RV tech said it’s not repairable and needs replaced. We are unable to find a new one that fits (I believe it’s an odd size, 23 inches). With no luck from our service department, Best Buy, insignia, and little help from Jayco. We are two months out coming up on camping season with no oven. Best Buy has offered to give us $600 to purchase the replacement but at this point I just want to find one that I can order.
This is what we found as a potential replacement. It is 24” which is the same size as the Insignia mentioned in the video. www.bestbuy.com/site/thor-kitchen-24-inch-freestanding-gas-range-stainless-steel/6484893.p?skuId=6484893&ref=212&loc=458068864&msclkid=9a28a9b6a7d110f314ffcfdd478d3ecf&gclid=9a28a9b6a7d110f314ffcfdd478d3ecf&gclsrc=3p.ds
Thank you! I've not had to address the issue myself yet, but I did notice some other issues underneath that can be solved with some fender washers, so I am going to do that. I may tackle the underbelly as you suggested as part of that video. Thank you for the suggestion.
When they sent replacement rim was it exactly the same? I mean will it fail too? We just had this happen this morning on day 3 of an 18 day trip. Lost about 8 hours trying to find a place to even diagnose it then I suggested using rim from spare so we could at least maybe get to the place we are staying for 9 days. Lol!
He Kim...I responded to you on FB, but for the benefit of others I am responding here as well. They did send the exact same make/model wheel, but of course there is no telling other than time will tell, if it will fail again. My guess is that they may gave had a bad production run in late 2021 early 2022, and that is why they are replacing them so quickly with no questions asked. I have no way of knowing that for sure - its just my guess. In any event they are quick to process the claims with no hassle and get them shipped out quickly. We only waited 2-3 days in each case.
Look into Boar wheels, the factory wheels are toys compared to Boar wheels. I have them on my toy hauler and it allows you such a beefier more commercial grade tire.
Hello Todd, I have indeed looked in to them and placed the order for them last week. I'm going to stick with the tires I have as they don't have any uneven wear and are H rated Coopers.
Story of my life! I have a love/hate with Siri! That you for that pointer. I can probably lift out the grommet a bit hit it, put back in place and hit again.
