does anyone know what metals BREMSEN coated brake rotors are made of? i cant find this info anywhere not even on their box! my mechanic assures me they are cast iron but BREMSEN's site says the rotors take up to 400c (750F)....
What a load of crap. The wear difference came from the caliper not the rotor. With modern brake material, rotors are discarded with the pads. Unless you live in a high rust area the ''coating'' makes no difference. If the rotor is machined properly the and you don't live in the rust belt the coating gets you nothing.
Agree that the wear on the back is caused by a seized caliper. I had this exact problem on a couple cars. New calipers, rotors and pads fixed it. The NAPA calipers are great.
Is it true that you want coated for open-wheel designs, and regular uncoated will probably suffice for traditional wheels that are covered by hub caps?
Wish you had more options for a 1988 Mercury Grand Marquis but I did install the NAPA Premium rotors...who makes the wheel bearing outer races and where are the rotors made?
I bought high quality zinc rotors. After 4 thousands the top of the rotor is rusted. So don't get fooled. You better buy not coated and spraying them with high heat resist paint. Cheaper and replicable.
I question because of the coating present where the brake pads compress onto the rotor, if the initial bedding-in process of the brake pads is affected in any way by that coating between the rotor and pad? I'm aware that the coating in this area of the rotor will eventually be removed with time but is the braking efficiency effectiveness the same as bedding-in brake pads with non-coated or partialy coated rotors (only hat/veins)? If the braking efficiency is less in comparison than I rather not purchase fully coated rotors.
Why polymer coating? Why not galvanized? Paint flakes off, especially under heat and vibration. Electroless or electroplated zinc would be much more tenacious, and prevent rust from sneaking under the edge of the coating.
I just put these 'adaptive' rotors w mid level NAPA ceramic pads on the rears today. I will revisit this comment years from now to see if you suck or not.
I watched the video again and the piston was still going in. So that tells me the first method did not get all the air out. Show me proof next time and do the second method after the first.
Well so does mine. So there are more than one place that can be a problem. Master first. ABS second. The rear brakes drum brakes with shoes. They are very difficult and people leave them for years. If they are worn down or installed wrong. Mine are installed with the shoes wrong. Air in the wheel cylinder or lines. Air in the front calipers. So bleed the lines back to front. Also it can be a bad master.
I just got the Adaptive One these yesterday, part number AD7318B, and they Do NOT have the Gold Clean Coat on them. I called 4 stores and they checked their stock of this part, and none of them had the gold coating. Just the ceramic pad. I guess since these are Made in China the quality in production went down.
I just got these yesterday, part number AD7318B, and they Do NOT have the Gold Clean Coat on them. I called 4 stores and they checked their stock of this part, and none of them had the gold coating. Just the ceramic pad. I guess since these are Made in China the quality in production went down
I had a question, i need to bleed a master cylinder but its on the car, i bench bleed it when it was out of the car car but apparently it still has air in it,this is not my first rodeo so im kinda stumped about whats going on, this master cylinder is a little unusual,it has your 2 normal ports but it also has a bottom port that goes to the driver side front wheel only, if i decided to do the plug method he first shows in this video, could i leave the bottom port hooked up as it is, to the front driver side caliper ? that line is buried under the master and i would prefer not to deal with it. When i bled the wheels the front ones are great, solid fluid coming out,the back ones 2 but they just dont seem to have a lot of pressure,my problem is the following, the car stops fine but the pedal is way long,i did also install a a booster and i have a tool to measure depth and i did that and left 20 thousands as a air gap,i dont think the problem is the rod but air in the system, sorry for the long post, thank you for any input you might have!
