Going to start off with some videos for helping people save money fixing your vehicles ect. yourself. Adding some Motor vlogging and some RC car videos!!! First time honeybee keeper in 2023!!
Thanks for the video have the same problem on my 1997 already ordered all the parts. I think this o-ring and all the shaft seals on this side of the engine should just be done every time you do the timing belt because it's easy to get to them. The last guy who did the timing belt on my car was a monkey and left 3 bolts out of the top timing cover and it was flopping around. Safe to say he probably didn't bother changing the oil pump o-ring lol
@@bryanrodriguez6759 Yes, you need to take it to a dealership unless you can find a diesel service center that will take your vin and program it for you before they ship it to you.
Got a crazy question if anyone knows got a 06 lbz duramax got tow tunes but everything else is fractory low power low fuel mileage starts fine drives fine just low power can only make 11 lbs of boost at wot no boast leaks new air filter new fuel filter new fpr does loop a bit at idle when warm only factory cp3 and factory turbo truck does has 841,000 miles on it anyone have any idea what it could be no smoke and no codes
The pump shouldn't NEED the additional sealant, but having just gone through this, will do the same (but less than what you showed). I've found that the replacement gaskets are often smaller than the original ones and leak even when new. Further, the gaskets can dry out in the original packaging (the one I just purchased in 2024 had a date on the package from 2008!). So...additional gasket maker for me in addition to the ring rubber gasket. Last, recommend verifying that the oil leak at the pump is solved PRIOR to putting the timing belt covers (2), P/S belt, A/C belt, and crankshaft pulley on (need to install the timing belt, of course). Otherwise you will be doing all of this again if the pump still leaks after your repair. Torque for the 10mm bolts on the pump is low (76 in-lbs).
i have a 69 mustang also and i have never done a restoration. do you think you could help me with like what steps to do? i am building the motor right now and just put floor pans in it. front clip is taken off thats pretty much it. whats next you think? theres some rust holes in the body should i attack that next? thanks
Crazy year!! It is a lot for me to record while i am in my hives. I tried the single deep method with a queen excluder this year and have had at least 4 swarms. I pulled the excluders right before i made this video. I have 5 queen right hives now and another that is in the process of re queening.
Mine seems to be the tail lights. The tail light bulb receptacle looks burned. And After further inspection I found more than 5 electrical plugs and all light bulb receptacles on the outside of the truck looked burned out. Some got replaced and some just got grease. It has been a long difficult and dirty but thanks to your video, I got headed in the correct direction 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
I'm trying to find out if I only have one sympton of three symptoms I need to replace pcv valve ? The three symptoms are oi; and air leaks and high idling . I've only got oil leak 2011 Camry LE 2.5 L 2ARFE If I do need to replace it . I"ll have to remove intake manifold and other things or pay a shop . DO I NEED TO rerplace PCV valve ?
Nice video, helped me get the WWC part I had been looking for, thanks! I'm going through the same re-install of my assembly and noticed a bunch of bits missing. Wave washers, nylon washers, the clip you got from WWC (oem is broken) The diagram for 69-70 seems to be the same but no clear exploited view on what goes in the clutch or brake shaft; I just have the clutch shaft straight across the assembly but I am pretty sure there should be some washers there? The nylon bushings do not fit since the shaft is the same diameter of the guide holes on the assembly.
Changing it out first time was super hard it was way overtightened by whoever did it last time . I stripped my oil fliter wrench and tried with pliers and still wouldn't come off . Gave up took it to mechanic LOL . He had trouble himself even though he had car six feet in the air with his lift . Couldn't get it the first try and used bigger ratchet and finally got it . He didn't overtightened for me when I do it replace it myself . Hopefully
I have the one with foldable square tubular handle. The air line abrades on the handle end where the handle swivels. Definitely and area I need to keep an eye on.
