Not sure if they have both an internal and an external as ive never had the trans apart (and honestly wont do myself) but given there's an external filter id ASSUME its only the external.... I think the 99's had internal ones but i dont know too much about it so, take my advice as just another idiot on the internet lol. Best of luck!
What exactly did this fix in your car? You mentioned somewhere in the comments that you were having a clunk/jerk when you accelerate when the car is trying to downshift, was the filter the culprit? Apart from changing it as a routine, are there signs that i need to change it?
It didn't exactly fix my in-between gear clunk that I occasionally get but fresh fluid in there always helps. They say that you don't have to replace the filter between 60k and 120k miles so it was definitely time and easy enough to do. Best way to determine if its time is to check the color of the transmission fluid on the dipstick and use your best judgment.
These two vids are an awesome learning resource. Thanks loads 😁 The inevitable questions tho- It looks like you used the heavy & hard kind of fire bricks that absorb & conduct heat. Did you consider using the lightweight, soft kind that are designed to insulate? It seems to me the insulating kind would have been optimal for the hottest burn whilst shielding the floor better. What am I missing? I figure if you need the thermal mass you can loosely stack the heavy fire bricks around the barrel?
Cheers to good mead we just subscribed after your video found us . We love to home brew beer , grow some hops make mead and different wines and others on our channel , stay thirsty and make good mead .
@phxws13 pull the transmission pan off and there's a black rectangular filter. You just pull it off and put a new one on. If you're changing the fluid anyway pulling the pan and changing the filter is worth it
@@pierobernini5964 Thanks I seen two different types filters on Auto Zone and was confused why they were different. This makes perfect sense 1 is internal filter and other is filter next to fan and battery. I’m doing maintenance tomorrow. Highly appreciate it 👍🏽
Being lazy, I changed it without taking air box out or fuse box, spray pinch hose connections with penetrant and 10mm bolt. Lineman's pliers are wide enough to catch the wide pinch clamp's tongs. Move clamps down . With a pair of neelde nose pliers, you can pry the hoses off the filter. Many honda dealers will swear you don't need to change this, which is ridiculous. When you remove the old one, blow through it, (with a catch can or something) and see the difference of resistance needed. The video shown is the correct way, seeing I still managed to bust a knuckle, but for some , time is of the essence!
How do you get it to burn so hot I just did a couple of test designs and it's best I got up to 300c at the top of the barrel normally around 200c I tried a 5-inch which plant cleanly as long as I didn't put the barrel on and then I tried a 7 to 8 inch which did burnt clean me with a barrel on but never got above 300 degrees ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GCA0t2dHWEE.html
After almost forgetting about the transmission filter I bought a year and a half ago (ran across it last week when doing some lawn tractor maintenance), finally got around to replacing mine (at 290K). Great video, followed it more or less step by step (except for the bubble gum and lego part). Probably more like 3 hours than 3 minutes, but didn't make too much of a mess or draw too much blood and only lost one clamp from one of the air box attachments. The biggest pain was getting the clamps back on the new filter (and finding the right pair of pliers in the first place that were wide enough to take the clamps off and to put them back on again -- luckily/thankfully I had some on hand), as especially the clamp on the right hand side had become more difficult to grab back on to and stay grabbed back on to. But, success in the end. I'll let the dealer do the fluids... Thanks!!!
I'm not sure as the brief research I did, didn't come up with anything. Mines an automatic and if I had to guess it should (in theory) be in the same place. But I'm just guessing. Honda forums would be a good place for info. Sorry i cant be of any more help
3' x 5' cement backer board on the floor should essentially change a wood floor into a cement floor as long as you have an inch or so of spacers between the board and the floor or the board and the first layer of brick/block (prevents heat building up). Excellent video BTW
damn i watched your video and made a rocket stove out of cardboard and used kerosene as glue and then burnt my house down. i was going to sue until i watched the video again and saw the disclaimer - lucky for you fella.
There is. Watch the video and order the parts off either Amazon or Ebay. I changed it on mine and it made a world of difference. It went from shifting hard feeling like a rubber band shifting through the gears to shifting faster and smoother. Do this and drain and fill the fluid and you should have saved your transmission for a least a few more years depending on its condition. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tWiws7Tr_zI.html
You have 2 5-gallon buckets and both have 4 holes on the bottom of the buckets. How yow prevent the water from escaping from the bottom bucket because of the 4 holes in the bottom.
If your civic has a K series engine then yes. Most of the filters are in relatively the same spot across most Honda and Acura models and look similar to the one in my video. You might want to check out Piotr Bilek's video on the honda civic filter replacement as well. Best of luck!
Was your car slipping first gear before you changed to filter because I changed the fluid and not the filter but it drove okay for a couple days n went back to slipping
My car doesn't have an issue with slipping but the transmission will clunk if it goes from park to reverse on a hill or if you accelerate just right as it's attempting to downshift. Just figured since the car has 380,000 km and I don't have records of it being relaced previously, it was probably time.
The filter that you are speaking of is the one that you showed in your video in the engine bay right? not the 1 incased that you have to drop the tranny bottom out to gain access to?
I’m looking at building One like you’re building but a dual barrel in my basement , I live in a split ranch with another split ranch on top I’ve got my basement and 4 floors on top but each floor is like a half a floor up the flue pipe I am able to reroute on each floor to extract every bite of heat from the exhaust and I know I will probably have to make this a 2 Burner or 3 burner heater ! But I’m looking to see if anyone has journeyed in this Direction ! But I have not seen so I maybe the first ! But Thanks to All the Rocket Mass-Heater Builds I’ve learned something off most of you thanks !
Metal, especially heavy metal, has been discouraged as the inside layer of the heat riser for many years now. A 4" system will not get as intensely hot as a larger system, so the metal will last a lot longer here. Heavy metal is still wasted in this system. Thin firebrick (called "splits") with insulation around them are the most durable material for a heat riser though not the most efficient. The most efficient and easiest riser to build is called a "five minute riser" (google it for details), and is made from ceramic fiber insulation rated for over 2300 degrees F. Not cheap but very good.
@@gjh42 yeah I was catching that ceramic fiber board heat riser and so now I read the concern about fibers burnt off. I have a Silverfire rocket stove - the Survivor - that is awesome for quick concentrated cooking heat from twigs. But as far as the claim for the Mass Rocket heaters being so great - it definitely seems like the designs are still being improved upon a lot. I have a Two Dog with a baffle and just surround it with bricks and then a four gallon pot of water on top - and then the stove pipe goes off at 30 degrees. So by the time it leaves the side wall - it's cooled down a lot. But outside the chimney is rock wool insulated. So I got red glow and blue flames last time I used it - the stove glowed some red. I burn it fully open. So I'm gonna turn it down once it heats up - since the chimney should pull good. But I'm just not sure it's that much worse than a rocket mass heater. I don't get as complete of a burn since it's not insulated but I get probably more immediate heat off the stove. I don't know. Seems like a lot of work to build these things. I've never done masonry - I don't even like the whole "level" and "squaring" and "plumbing." I do like throwing cob against walls. I made a double wattle wall hut with clay slip hay insulation.
Rocket mass heaters are a different animal from rocket stoves. One is made for a superhot fire that then heats a mass, the other is for an efficient cooking fire and has no need for mass. RMH designs are being incrementally improved, though many of the improvements are more expensive, or trickier to build, or sometimes more delicate. The basic design that has been stable for 5-10 years is easy to build, efficient, and durable. You can actually build a J-tube RMH entirely out of cob - I have done it a few times and they work quite well and would be reasonably durable, especially considering the expense.
@@gjh42 good to know - and the "manifold" as well out of cob? Like a Chinese Kang bed stove - only cob and bricks. haha. I have a SilverFire Hunter stove. So it has a rocket stove inside it but it can hold a big pot of water for mass heating. So I'm just gonna use that in addition to the wood stove with the baffle and water on top and bricks around it and 30 degree stove pipe. So I can't remember if Silverfire uses ceramic blanket for their riser? He switched materials I remember. Yeah I only have a 9 x 7 internal space to heat - so don't really need to do a lot of masonry work plus I need immediate heat a lot for the very cold winters in northern Minnesota.
Could you try burning bamboo of different thicknesses (large and small) to see how well it works. I think it to be a good renewable energy source that anyone can grow, but don't know how well it would work.
cracked dry bamboo would burn great in a rocket stove... but, make sure it is nice and cracked, as I have seen popping/exploding bamboo segments that were still sealed. That would not be good in small confined space like this O_o
Maybe as a good idea for next projects: Use with some safety precautions water (yes water) as the mass. There is no comparable good substance to store heat such as water . (you can do your own research -> heat capacity per kilo) For comparison: 1 (!) Kilo of water stores much more heat (at 99°C) and at the same temperature than: - 4.5 kg aluminum - 9 kg iron - 11(!) kg of copper or - 5,8 kg asphalt - 5 kg Solid brick - 4,2 kg calcareous sandstone - 4,7 kg concrete Even if you bring 1 kilo of aluminum to 350-400 ° C, 1 liter / kilo of water (with 99°C) still stores more heatenergy than the kilo of aluminum. (purely to the understanding) And water is a lot cheaper than the mentioned materials^^ If you take a thermostat from the automotive sector (92-95 ° C) and a large IBC container, you have the cheapest and most efficient heat storage. Which can not overcook so quickly (1000 liters of water need "some" time) Should it come that far, we have the thermostat that can push away from the heat source ;)
I really like your design and planning. Just an FYI when wanting to get the paint off the Barrel. I took my barrel to a local Sand-blast services in Denver called Blast-Tech. they can easily take the paint off and it cost me no time, and the charge was $20 bucks. They mostly do auto body blasting work.
Hi guys; what type of fire bricks are suitable for direct contact with such high temperatures such as this? There seems to be different types with different levels of alumina and density...cheers
so the exhaust from a properly operating rocket core and barrel is famously cool when exiting near the bottom of the barrel. How does the exhaust heat the mass when there's not a lot of heat in the exhaust?
I think it leaves the barrel at 400 to 500 F. and then leaves the bench at around 120 F - and there is condensation but no creosote. Then the condensation gets evaporated eventually.
Why don't you people STOP WITH ALL THE SAFETY TALK. We all know about being safe when handling power tools.you people are sicking with your P.C. talk. we're not children.!!!!!!!!!!
Don't you get tired of hearing that message, broken record? Evidently you don't watch enough of these videos to have that safety message ''GRIND IN YOUR EARS''.
It's because of the sue crazy 'Mericans who will sue because they spill coffee on themselves....AND WIN in 'Merican courts. The rest of the world it doesn't matter.
