I need to know about the corporate how to put back Gill Put back together Put back together I need to know do they have a Spring format from cooperator to the muffler is there a Spring there
I have the ns872 a clone of the ms382 and I'm considering eventually doing that too. Luckly my muffler is bolted/screwed together, so opening it up and putting it back together will be much easier. My one issue is I have no way to weld the exhaust pipe onto it. So I may have to hire that done. But I love the increase in power you got. Thank you for showing us the difference without any extra mods. Great video. 😎👍
Thanks for your comment. Glad you found it helpful. Hope you enjoy that saw. All the reviews. I read about It looked pretty good, and it’s a nice size saw for sure.
I removed the main drive pulley and the key came out in two pieces. I am not sure what to do with that or how to get it back in place. I am going to assume I need a new key, but have not found any information on how or where to find one. Any help on where to get parts?
Great vid. So my question is I'm having a problem with not being able to pull the cord. It's stuck and i have the exact make and model push mower. Any ideas where to start looking at first? Thanks..
Thank you for you comment. Answer: Unfortunately I do not have that mower with me. So other than trying youtube videos you may want to try this link: origin.kohlerenginesparts.com/oemparts/l/koh/61857843855d461d145af844/xt675-2075-husqvarna-parts Once you go to that site click on the page 07 starting Use it as a reference. remove the blower housing, about 3 nuts/screws. remove items 1, 9, and 4 as necessary. check for binding and free play as you go check the engine brake cable releasing check the blade under the deck after disconnecting spark wire/cable I am not a mechanic, just a tinker, but i would use this type of approach.
Thank you for subscribing and the question. I do not have a meter to measure them proper. My best guess is that there is about a 20 to 40% increase. If I am not wearing hearing protection I don't notice the volume change much but the tone is deeper and I can actually feel a small pressure on my ears after modifying the muffler. I always use hearing protection now.
I'll be!! I have been chasing a start - run - high rev - stall problem forever now on my ms361 (farmertec build) and this was it!! Well at least I am a master at doing Crank Seals now! Thank you!
Wow. Glad to hear this video helped you get her finally fixed. This was a little faster than doing those crank seals I imagine. Like you said, now you've got crank seals down pat, and a great running saw again. Mines 4.5 years old and I work the heck out of it.
Thank you. Excellent point. For future viewers that want to get to the point they can scroll to 5:05. Then watch till the 6:00 point where the saw has started. I didn't make it in 20 seconds, but I do accomplish the basic task of starting the saw in 55 seconds, without additional explanations of course. Thank you again
Thank you! A lot of us small budget residential users have gone to gathering our own firewood to cut down on heating cost without wiping out the budget. For many of us this means getting free trees from Blow downs/dead falls or Clean up wood removal from tree fallers. i.e. we need bigger, more powerful saws(on a budget) Enter the Chinese Copies with decent power and somewhat acceptable performance, but not like the oem saws. I've noticed the 373 copies are very popular. They seem to be fairly reliable, easy enough to work on and if not pushed they can handle 24"-28" Bar/Chain combos. Problem is, as soon as you lean on them they tend to stall the chain in the wood. It looks like a Muffler upgrade would be the first and least expensive way to greatly improve performance. Your Modification to the G366 seems to confirm this. Again - Thank You!
It’s better than 029/039. I saw you have a 291. The AV system is not identical bet very similar to the 391. So I hope that will provide you with a good reference point. Thanks for your comments.
Thank you for your comment. I could of showed readjusting the carb. They normally run lean after the mod if you don't adjust the carb. I spun the H screw out about 3/16 of a turn then finished tuning with a different piece of wood that was not shown. I also could of max reved the saw outside the wood before and between the cuts that are in the video so you could of heard the four stroke. Thanks again for helping to make future videos better.
It’s the low “L” screw you need to adjust, not the H screw. The H screw is only used to set your max RPM. Need to turn that L screw out a 1/4 turn or so to richen up the fuel/air mixture.
@@SG-ig2th Thank you for your comment. I just want to make sure that you understand that both the H and the L screws are used to adjust their respective rpm by changing how lean or rich a setting is. As you change the ratio of lean vs rich you are also adjusting rpm. The simple version is: the L screw is the primary adjustment for lower rpms, and the H screw is the primary adjustment for higher rpms. The objective rpms when using respective screws are reference points in the tuning process. For example: you may have a saw that is max rpm rated for 13,500rpm but due to altitude, bar length, temperature, type of wood, and a host of issues you may need to use the 13,500rpm as a starting point and then finish tuning for optimum cutting effect "in the wood". I recommend that anyone desiring a better understanding of H and L screw adjustments, and 2 stroke theory might want to watch the following youtube video by Craig Kirkman: Episode 43: carburetor adjustment screws on 2-stroke. Many excellent videos are available on the web, and this one does an excellent job with the use of simple yet effective graphics. Thank you again for surfacing an example of another small yet important misunderstanding.
Did my muffler like your step one and an improvement. Doesn't seem to run near as hot. I am going to order another muffler and do like you did and do step two.. I check my jetting pretty regular with just a fine tune of a screw.I am not worried about warranty as it is out of warranty.I have the stock unmodified muffler but probably never put it back on.
Thank you for this video. I bought two of these over a year ago and neither one would start. Sold one and the other has been sitting. I've replaced everything I could think of (Carb, spark plug, starter coil, fuel filter, etc.) but I didn't know about this. I will have to give this a try and I hope it fixes it. The Farmertech community got mad at me when I complained about it online and they said I shouldn't buy these clones unless I know how to fix them. Farmertech wouldn't honor their warranty either (the saws were DOA) and said I should know how to fix them also. Overall, a very disappointing experience with them.
i have a 366, that the flywheel nut wasnt torqued properly which allowed the flywheel to move slightly when cranked one time. (i think) the engine backfired i immediately opened it up to find the flywheel loose and found the key inverted causing the key to shift and chip the key slot. ive considered using jb weld to repair the chip, but i reinstalled the key and flywheel as the chip damage was about 20% of the bearing surface. and cranked her up starts and runs okay i would suggest all 366 owners remove the flywheel and verify key orientation and correctly torque the flywheel nut.
Thank you for your comments Scott. You are absolutely right. Your comments caused me to look back at the running backwards video I made. When we diagnosed the problem it was a split key and as we took the flywheel off it was very obvious that the flywheel was loose. Nine months ago i received a comment from a viewer that had a bad running G366 and he had put 2 carbs on the saw., After watching the video he checked his saw and found a loose flywheel and split key. He replace the key retorqued the flywheel and now it runs fine. On other videos we have received comments about lousy runing G366s. I agree, everyone that owns a G366 might seriously consider taking the flywheel off, inspecting the key and slots and retightening the flywheel.
hi great video instructions , i have almost the same type , except mine has 2 belts , i had to change the belts , it took long time until i get my parts , now i gorgot how to put them back , i can not find single video like my model , dont know why ??? am i the only one has this HU 725 AWD/BBC , with 2 belts ???? please if any one has like mine or has one , if you can make a very clrar step by step video . or send me a link , by the way i have watched all single video on youtube , all they have one belt. 1 is short belt and second one is long like others , please some one helpe me out
Just wanted to say thanks for posting this video. I have the exact same saw put two new carburetors on it still ran like crap after watching your video I checked the flywheel key and sure enough it was sheared..
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Thank you for your comment. Please disreguard my first response to your comment. The "MAIN ONE" you comment on I believe you are talking about the drive pully with the little star embossed on the bottom of it. Once you removed the blade you should be able to pull it down and comes right off depending on rust. Penetrating oil overnight should take care of that. If that star is sheared off then the drive will still work but the blade will stall in medium to heavy grass. Recommend replacing pully with new part. However I have welded a new star and then ground it to fit with dremel. Best of luck
"now let's go around top and get those other two screws." I found one of these at a curb, took two oil changes in a day to clear that up, now has a clean carb, works great. But those "two screws", that was driving me nuts, I couldn't figure out why that would come off. Thanks for posting this.
