Hi there...I'm Chelsea and he's Logan. Our passion is teaching others how to make their house a home they love - one DIY at a time.
We've been renovating homes for over 5 years all while growing our family. We've got two small kiddos that love to chip in, who says you can't renovate with kiddos around?
Together we make a pretty good team. We share our projects and our frustrations on our blog www.makingmanzanita.com/ ... This is where overwhelmed DIY wannabes can learn how to renovate with confidence.
Great vid. Easy to follow. I'm the "fixit" person in our home (hubby is genius level IT guy but not repairs/renos etc). We are nervous about electrical wire work so will attempt this ourselves. Thanks for posting! :)
Strange I've never had that problem. If you have already figure it out, you can adjust the clamping pressure by turning the knob on the side of the jig. This allos you to fine-tune the force used to secure your workpiece. It might be just want you need to adjust to get the fit you're looking for with a 3/4" board. Turn the knob to the right for more pressure and the left for less.
This method will only work with wood products. For linoelum, you'll want to use a paint that is paint for that type of product. We recommend the Rust-Oleum HOME floor coating, which we've used when painting tile before. You can check that out here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UPja1sk0aOQ.html
Another tip you can try for a refresh is using a hair dryer on high heat, heating the leather will #1 help it absorb any stains and #2 it will actually tighten the leather back up. Which will help the seat cushions that get the most wear.(Also helps to rotate your cushions every now and then bc we all tend to sit in the same seat) You can also tighten the side and back panels this way. Leather will expand and contract with the temp, or if someone leans on it/puts a knee in the side to move the sofa.
Holy fuck lady get to the tack strips we didn’t look up how to remove carpet and padding and we are well aware there’s nails. 2/3 of your video is pointless
Great video!! Quick question: If I’m building a 48 inch wide gate how much clearance should I have on each side of the gate to the posts/other material?? I was thinking have up to 1/2 inch spacing on each side Let me know thanks 🙏
We removed our chair rail and used spackle to repair it - I sanded down and painted a dark color. Now I’m realizing I should have primed over the chair rail repair 😣 is it too late to prime just the chair rail area or will that make it stick out even more now the whole is painted dark. I’ve already don’t 2 coats of eggshell paint 😣
One thing I didn’t see commented on is what happens when a picket runs into the metal bracket? They are running flush on the face so if a screw needs to go into that how do you work around it? I am doing this exact thing this weekend but not sure how that will line up. 5.5 inch planks on 4 foot to center (for FL code) posts.
So that is nickel gap not ship lap. Look at the difference and the tool you referenced as a multitool is an oscillating saw. The finished job looks great. 🎉
I have flat which was already painted with asian apcolite, this was done 2 years back. Is it ok if we apply directly Royale paint on top of old ascolite paint. Or do we need to put again premier and then Royale paint. We were plaining to use morning glory from Royale variant for full house. Nite there were no cracks/wetness issues. Please suggest me
I'm not familar with these of these paint types/brands mentioned, but in general you can paint oil based paint over oil-based paint and water-based paint over water-based. So that is something you'll want to watch out for.
I need to make an outdoor sitting bench, so this will be perfect. I did not know about that adhesive. Is this something that Lowes sells? thanks! oh, just saw the link, so now I know where to get it!
For those people who think its unnecessary to wear protective eye gear, masks or gloves, when working with Pressure Treated (PT) lumber… You should go to the wood manufacturer’s websites. They all say pretty much the same things. DO NOT TOUCH NEW PRESSURE TREATED WOOD WITH YOUR BARE HANDS. If you do touch it, you are supposed to wash your hands immediately. Don’t breath in the saw dust because it is loaded with the chemicals. In fact they even recommend that any clothing that touched new PT lumber be washed immediately and separately from your regular laundry. New pressure treated lumber is very toxic, and it leaches out of the wood for quite a while. This is why you can’t use pressure treated wood inside your home. You also can’t use it for garden boxes that will grow fruits or vegetables, or edible flowers, unless you completely line it with plastic. Our dog was exposed to the in the sawdust because the deck builder didn’t clean anything up. She now has severe lung disease and has to take 2 inhalers, oral steroids and asthma medication twice a day. If you are cutting a treated wood, please wear the proper protective mask, gloves and safety glasses. Your eyes have a mucous membrane that absorbs chemicals very quickly. Most builders recommend waiting a few weeks for your deck boards to “dry out” before you stain OR seal the wood. During this process the water evaporates leaving the chemicals. I started researching, because there were 2 boards on my brand new deck that would stay wet long after the rest of the deck was dry. I looked at several wood manufacturers and realized that the pressure treating processes had changed, because the chemicals being used were deadly. The PT lumber of today, is not the same as the lumber in the 1970’s or ‘80s? The old PT wood was protected all the way through. Most people are not aware that most of the above ground pressure treated products are ONLY protected around the outer edges of the board. The middle of the board has basically no chemical protection. SO as soon as you cut a board, or drill into the middle, you are required to seal the holes and cut ends with TWO coats of a special chemical product that the manufacturer recommends. Some manufacturers require that the sealer contain a minimum of 1% copper. Some product I’ve seen were called Cut-N-Treat or Cut-N-Seal. These products are not the same as regular deck sealer. They specifically state for cuts into PT wood. The reason this is necessary to seal cuts and large holes is because the inside of the board is completely dried out and unprotected. When a PT board is cut or a hole is drilled, the inner wood is exposed. That dry wood acts like a straw or sponge and starts drawing moisture in. Remember back to your science classes when you learned about osmosis, which is simply the movement of water going from a high concentration to an area of lower concentration. Humidity is the amount of moisture in the air, which is higher than the moisture in the wood. There is also the risk of rain water getting pulled inside, during the “drying out” period before you stain or seal the wood. The wood manufacturer might have a 25 year warranty on their products, but if you fail to seal your cuts and holes with the exact product in their instructions, the manufacturer’s warranty is lost. They will not replace anything, for any reason… even if it’s related to bugs and not water damage! As soon as you don’t follow their instructions, your warranty is VOIDED! The warranty requires you to have receipts for the sealer, to show that you bought the correct product and when, you also need to take photos showing the cut ends were sealed with 2 coats. If you are investing in expensive pressure treated lumber, then make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Since some receipts degrade quickly, especially in hot environments, take a photo on your cell phone of the product and your receipt, so you don’t lose out! Yes it’s a pain in the ass, and a bit more work, but replacing a $20,000 deck that should have been covered by warranty is worse! For people who are hiring a company to build your deck, fence, etc. Ask them about sealing their cut ends. If they look at you like you have 2 heads and have no idea what you’re talking about, say goodbye and walk away. This is a clear sign that they don’t read the manufacturer’s instructions for the pressure treated lumber being used. Any photos of their work, would show projects that have no manufacturer’s warranty, and their customers most likely have no idea. Those instructions also include information on how to dispose of left over material and how to clean up the worksite and sawdust properly. So they likely have also contaminated their customer’s property in some way. IF YOU HAVE PETS… PLEASE PLEASE DON’T EXPOSE THEM TO THESE CHEMICALS! It is truly a nightmare to watch you pet struggle to breath!
Good job. Looks very nice. Next time you do it just start with 5 or 6 boards staining them end to end and not stop in the middle of the board. This way you don't risk getting a dry edge by the time you restart the other half and also you don't need to step over wet stain to wipe.
