@@alphanerdgames9417 oh I don't know about that, speaking of somebody who has played D&D for getting close to 40 years I would say that the modern versions are just D&D tedious crap Amvets this is closer to basic
Using the pre supported models from one page rules are such a easy way to print them. Since i use it, the only thing i have to setup is the exp time for my resin mixtures. 90% success rate with them, realy worth it the price and if you have a Patreon subscription u safe 50%-75% of!
interesting gamemode, I will try wen the Grimdark Furure come in the future, (Lack of miniatures for AOF and lack of budget), as I can see now looks fun, great video.
I'm glad you made this video. I want to get into Age of Fantasy Quest. Have you downloaded the narrative campaign "Out of the Shadows"? It's for Age of Fantasy Quest.
I’m looking forward to this. I have the four OPR minis printing now. I’ve also never got around to printing any OPR Vampiric Undead, so that will be a good army for enemy waves.
I would recommend short stumpy models like dwarfs or rat men. I have better luck with opr’s dwarfs and a friend of mine has made great looking rat men also from opr.
I use a similar terrain set up for forest/woods. The flat shape (blue water, green vegetation, grey rock, red lava, light blue ice) defines the extent of the terrain, then a token rock, tree, bush, or grass model defines the terrain type. That lets models move through and hold inside the terrain without being at weird angles or falling over. My hills are similarly gentle slopes or a series of flat horizontal steps for the same reasons. I just assign a height value where needed for blocking line of sight. For me, playability is more important than visual realism. I like the method of having separate neutral, Elven, and Dwarven objective markers to keep track.
2nd printer for me -- this is WAY BETTER!!!! Very simple set up and you are printing. Self leveling is the bomb.... First timers could get one and be printing within a hour. Large plate is great ,, So anyone looking for a print,,, Get this machine WORTH EVERY PENNY,,,,,
Hi. Thank you for your video. Very helpful. I just purchased the files. Dis you add supports? If so, how was the orientation on the rear bezel please. Thank you.
I did use supports. They have a pdf to show where the supports should go. The rear bezel was printed back side down. It is not hard to figure out otherwise.
Thanks for the video, I plan on upgrading what I have with this printer at some point this year, been using anycubic for years and I like them. Will keep an eye out to see how well it works for you longer term. Oh on the dots if you soak the minis in hot water before removing the supports it will make it easier and prevent a lot of the pitting.
Ya I was looking at that one as well. Great time to be looking at printers lol so many choices out there. It has come so far in just the 3-4 years I have been doing it.@@alphanerdgames9417
you can't go wrong with this machine....Has all you need, all the pre set up for printing are already there ,,, I didn't even do test print... I used the setting they had for regular resin and started printing out a "WARHOUND" came out perfect,,,, self leveling plate is great.... 15 prints and no issues... ohhh and they are packed full plates...war hammer stuff for myself and friends --details are awesome...... slicer took bit to get use to, that's bout only thing had to mess about with to figure out .. 10/10
Great video and really helpful. Was wondering about starting a gaming club at my kids school but OPR seemed a little rough for the age range, so Dicehead could be exactly what I'm looking for, thank you
Anycubic was my first foray into resin printing, and the M5s Pro is a brilliant choice for a first resin printer. Good UI, heater, great quality prints, R_E_R_F (Anycubic is a strong recommend for this feature alone), and its got those sensors under the LCD which may save you from yourself (user reports are mixed). Elegoo would be a great choice too, I loved the Saturn 2 and Mars 3 Pro, but the Anycubic is just going to make your life easier especially thanks to R_E_R_F. Buy yourself some Elegoo ABS Like 2.0, or Sunlu Toughness, or Anycubic Tough resin Ultra. These are the resins you're looking for. The thing about resin printers today is when it comes to print quality, it doesnt matter which one you pick - you gotta bust out a macro lens and pixel peep to tdll the difference. So what matters is user experience, and Anycubic just edged out the competition with the M5s Pro when it comes to UX. Watwr washable resin is setting yourself up for pain. Brittle prints, dont even bother. Buy yourself a wash+cure machine, any is fine, and isopropyl alcohol. Its well worth it! Good luck with your printer and I have a comprehensive guide on my channel featuring the M5s Pro to help you get up and running with success.
Sir please DO NOT stop what you are doing, I will be purchasing soon! I'm glad this was showcased because I saw you products on images and couldn't find the site to purchase!
ANYCUBIC Water Washable ABS-Like 3D Printer Resin is more durable (flexible) for the thin bits and less nasty smell. Also, water isn't flammable if you are printing in the basement near the furnace.
Its great if you dont have all or most of the models. I am just getting the campaign with the handful of new models since I have everything. Been woth them since 2020.
While these _are_ old models (read: not newly designed for this frontier) , they still are very good! And even although I already got some of them, the discount was so insane, I had to back it, just like you did! I was put off by the price at first, but my jaw dropped when I did the calculations.
Alpha, look at the resin setup short i posted, it will solve your fume issue. the TLDR is pick a place in your house or garage next to a window. Buy a grow tent and a 5 inch inline fan. buy a AC window exaust kit put the resin printer in the grow tent and have the fan run 24/7. We tested the setup with a air quality monitor that included VOCs and with being judicial in keeping the tent closed when you arent working on it you should be good to go. ALSO the most fumes that will be present are when you are post processing so be aware of that. Buy a wash and cure station. keep the lid on the IPA in the wash bucket when not immediately in use. As for printers Anycubic is fine, but just fine. their m5 pro is pretty cool. my print farm is only stocked with elegoo resin printers, but ive also been printing for years. dont listen to the other comments on the halot. there is NO reason to give creality any money.
It all smells, water washable kind of sucks tbh, std and abs like resins are cool though (Sunlu makes great stuff and for the right price, $18 CAD/L). Use alcohol though (don't use resin detergents), 3min agitated bath, then I dump my prints into tap hot water to soften the supports, pull them off, and shake off excess water then I let them dry for a couple mins before they go under my UV lamp for 2-7 min depending on the size of the model or thickness.
@@alphanerdgames9417 Well to save a lot of time washing you can let them drip off on the plate for an hour or so. And when you wash you are just looking to get rid of the shiny layer, 2-5 min works for most models. Cure times for std resins are usually around the 3s per layer level with the initial being 10x what you layer setting is, plus a few seconds usually. For larger models turn up the layer exposure a few 10ths of a second. But I do suggest watching some videos about calibration matrix prints and how to read them, resin is all about calibration.
UI on the Elegoo is weird, but its good. Halot one Pro has a much more intuitive UI. No printer will fit the bill for fumeless, the fumes come from the printer but the nasty fumes really come from the alcohol cleaning process. When outside besides temp you have to consider UV hitting your vat when you lift the top, or only open the lid at night ? Auto leveling isn't a feature, its a gouge for noobs, there is nothing easier than leveling a resin plate. Fail detect works occasionally. Don't worry as much, once you develop a work flow with resin printing you will see how easy it is, the most important thing with resin printing is nailing the exposure settings with the resin you are using by doing a number of test matix prints, Phrozen makes a good stl. Print fails with resin are often a case of under exposure.
My plan is to do my prints in the morning when the sun is on the other side of the house all the while be under a deck, using an enclosure. I have heard water washable is brittle and abs is strong. I am getting water washable abs so I figure they cancel each other out. The leveling is not a problem because they include bolts for manual leveling unlike the previous versions. The testing is something I need to investigate more. Where can I get the phrozen stl?
