My name is Daniel Tucker, I am an avid rider and dirt bike builder. I also rip sleds in the winter and do all thing power sports. Join me in the adventure of life behind bars and Welcome to the DanMx RU-vid Channel!
Dude, your videos have been a massive help with my sons KTM125 build. Fully appreciate the time you have put in to make this content. It's definitely the best I have found. Cheers
I ran a set of plates for 120 hours, of course it was a mix of tracks and desert free riding. It’s not uncommon if you shift correctly and limit clutch in that it last for a long time. Worst thing on a clutch is using it when not necessary. Learning to shift correctly, with and without the clutch is key to long clutch and engine life. I use Rotella T4 15w-40 and it’s all I use in all my bikes. As long as it has no friction modifiers, your 10W-30 will be fine:
Once again your videos are great and really helps me understand how to fix certain things on the same bike with your good detail and video quality. Really is like the best live manual I’ve ever seen. Also lets me know when I might be getting over my head and when I might need certain tools to do the job right.
Depends on the part, but I am a fan of ProX for motor parts, and I like most of the AllBalls kits for other items, had good luck with them. Otherwise pivot works is great for misc repairs.
hello, i fully rebuildt a husqvarna te 125 which has the ktm sx 125 2007-2016 engine. what should the squish be? i have a high compression head and it’s .7mm is this to little?
Thanks for the comment Lance, yeah I have to back off on the torque specs, there is always someone who either knows better or says I’m wrong. So either check the manual, or snug it up lol
Hello! Very useful video thanks! At 18:15, what is the function of this metal part? Is it a big problem if I installed itt upside down? As You show first :) should I dissasembly again and turn back, or I can use it safe as it is? Thanks a lot! Daniel
In other videos they do the way You did first: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-u2WCVXpK_vI.htmlsi=T9ZQo94uPNhfIxmk I also think that is more senseful.
Hey Daniel, sorry I didn’t respond sooner. The spacer, or washer, must be with the tabs facing upwards. This is intentional so that the bushing does not get pinched in between the spacer and the tube. I’ll post the directions stated from the service manual. “Install the oil seal washer with its projections facing upwards” Hope this clarifies. Thanks again man!
I rebuilt my rear master cylinder the same way and my brakes are still not functional. Ive blead the brakes several times and it still offers little to no stopping power. Could it be something in the caliber?
Hi so I have a yfz 450 very similar engine to yours and I was wondering if you heard a ticking noise as you accelerated because I feel like my timing chain is stretched and was wondering you heard the same noise
I’m guessing you’re talking about the splash guard for the bowl on the inside? Sorry somehow your comment skipped past me, and I missed it. But if that’s it, you need it to keep fuel in the path of the jets in order to allow the carb to take in the fuel.
I know this is an older video, but I recently got your exact same bike for $700 (it wouldn’t start), cleaned the carb and added new gas it started right up within 3 kicks, and now like you said, usually the first kick. I am having some carb issues, and am wondering what jetting your running in your carb. I believe your in vernal, I’m close to you in Kaysville, wondering if you can help me out.
Two things.... why didn't you measure the inner cartridge oil height? Second, wouldn't you want the bleeder screw in the the compression assembly before bleeding inner cartridge?
Great questions and I hope I can make this clear for you. The bleed screw is used to bleed the air pressure buildup from the fork cartridge, and because it is oring sealed on the inner cartridge, and it bleeds over into the outer cartridge, the bleed screw has no effect on the bleeding process. As for oil height, Yamaha actually states a capacity, I don’t know it but I do know this, that is a baseline to start with. After bleeding the air the manual actually tells you to replenish or refill the oil back up to near the overflow holes, then install the inner cartridge, so, the amount is not relevant if you just fill is up past the recommended amount. Hope this helps, and makes sense 😂
Sorry missed your comment, but @dailyshreding9393 was right. Sometimes the crank can somewhat bind with the bearings in install, and this can usually be freed up by just shocking it.
Hi mate I’ve got a ktm 125 sx 2005 I’ve got a washed with an insert nub on it any chance you could help me out and see if you could find out where it goes would be appreciated
Hey, so in the manuals it says 1l oil with Filter. So do you Fill up the cup with 1l oil and put the Filter in to soak it and than pull it out with like a fork or something? Or do you use more oil than 1 l cause the Filter soaked some oil? Hope ypu understand what im trying to say
I just picked up a 2014 for a thousand dollars that has same issue. Guy was tired of messing with it so I took a risk seeing the cracked lenses that it was going to be a easier fix and worse case I end buying a new cluster. Your video gave me some insight on getting it off and fixing it myself. Thank you.
My son and I pulled the cluster out last night and there wasn’t a little moisture, there was standing water. Soaked it in a bag of rice for 5 hours and it plugged it back in, working perfectly. Ordered a replacement lens cover as the one on it was cracked pretty good. Thanks again for your video,
Hey Dan.. Congrats on your videos man you’re awesome..I just finished my top end rebuild on my exc 125 ‘01 but it won’t start..I get fuel in the cylinder,I get spark, good compression but it won’t even think of starting..😢any ideas??spark plug is not the recommended one cause I didn’t find a br8es on my local shop so I bought a br6es instead!! You think it might cause the issue??
Your reeds could be stuck closed causing no air and fuel mixture. Other than that if you’re sure on the rest I’m kinda lost. The plug shouldn’t affect it starting and running. If it’s not a strong blue spark, it won’t run either.
@@DanMX2112 update: it was the plug.. I put a BR9ES and it started on the 2nd kick..maybe the first one was clogged with all the 2t oil I used while assembling the cylinder and all the stuff.. anyway thanks for the reply..greetings from Greece my friend!!
You know, if a part is in a vise and you heat it; it will expand. But, being in a vise, it is contained, and the I.D. will expand some but is limited by the vise.
@@StickmanTV using a thinner oil will allow the suspension to travel at a faster rate, meaning plusher and softer. This is the only way until you get into springs and valving. It works great btw, go for it. Try a 3 or 5 weight oil.
