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Planning to do this on my e84,20d,in couple of days,where exactly is fuel filter located,is it left rear? Also should we disconnect battery before this procedure,and did you prime/bleed fuel line manually or with diagnostic tool
It’s okay video to get familiar with overall process, but according to TIS both filler and drain plugs are 60Nm; not 33. Also it says to replace them so I did because it is safer approach to avoid leaks and have to do the job again. The oil capacity of front diff is 0,8L. Lastly, the reinforcement (stiffening) plate requires new bolts, that should be mentioned, and they get torqued to 56Nm + 90*. So they are stretched and should not be reused.
BMW also recommend 18 000 mile oil changes on diesel engines. Sometimes the manufacturer just wants to make some extra cash on maintenance, ie "new bolts". If it was the stretch bolts in removing the cylinder head i would agree.
@@Hoozpoppin There are certified mechanics who want to do everything according to the book and there are mechanics even in the dealership who forget to tighten your screws. Or he tells you that he changed your oil and didn't even touch it, what can I say about changing the plug. You are both right, now it depends on the customer how lucky he is😁
@@tutorialsbyjulian7478Because cylinder head is aluminium. Two different metal composites make reaction and unfortunately aluminium starts to oxidize, which is rusting. Glowplug are more likely to stuck by rust
Thank you so much! I have been looking for a video like this for over a year, my DPF has gotten blocked up to the point where exhaust is coming out under the bonnet now, I had it cleaned a year ago professionally but I think with 188,000 miles the engine is running rich. Did you use an engine support bar at the top? or did you just support the engine with a jack? Also Where did you put the jack? Was it on the jacking point at for the front? I can't make it out fully in the video
You're welcome, I'm glad you find my video useful, I supported the engine underneath with a jack on a piece of wood, I put the jack in the back of the engine closer to the connection with the gearbox, if you look carefully in the clip you can see.
@@darrellnewens2830 I can't tell you exactly because it takes a lot more time when filming and I never look at my watch when I'm doing something, but for you if you want to do this it is much faster with this tutorial.
In my f31 there are access points in the ceiling, placed like 5 cm off being able to reach the nuts... This drives me insane, like; WHY? It is making a 10 minutes job into 2 hours, so i guess it superb for the autoshops. The mechanics probably curses this as much as me though.
I just did this on my xDrive 28i (transfer case is ATC 35L) , and I got about 0.35L out by sucking everything I could thru the filler cap. This transfer case does not have the drain cap, so newTIS manual instructs you to remove the whole transfer case, flip it upside down in order to completely drain all of the fluid. That seemed like a ridiculous amount of work, so I opted for the method of sucking out.
It is preferable to remove as much as it comes out, then fill it until it starts to drip. If you want it to be better, do a few km with the car, then take it out again and fill it up. It is not worth to remove the transfer case.
Defo take out centre console for easier access , prob adds another 10 mins to job- only held in by 6 bolts. Rear ashtray, top and under gear stick faring
Daca asta este parerea ta, nu te contrazic, important este daca vrei sa faci aceasta operatiune sa stii tu sa o faci mai bine. Multumesc pentru comentariu.