So I looked into it awhile back and I don't think it would have fit in my F-150. Sounds like it's time for a bigger trailer, I upgraded from a 20' to a 23' for a couple hundred bucks and was able to fit my 4 seater X3 and the Joyner easily
A boat's trailer hubs should be replaced every 7000 to 10000 miles. If well cared for, with fresh geese every trip hubs may last up to 27 thousand miles before failure, a novias boater experience.
Thanks for the feedback I'm going to see what I can do to seal it up tight. Would have like to have had a non pop top but definitely want to trailer it and the price was right 😎
I have the same light bar but I do not have the key on an off wire that plugs to the wiring harness which will cause the lights on the switch to stay on leading to a dead battery. I have tried to find that wire that you add on to the bottom of the bus bar but can’t find it. Please help? Thanks for the great video.
So good catch on the tires. At the time I did this, tires were in high demand and extremely overpriced. I picked up some takeoffs. They had quite a bit more tread than you could notice in the video. I'm actually in the process of replacing them. No snow or ice and I took these out to the desert where we Off-road and they actually worked great at a low psi, they were just a cheap temporary fix.
@wernergarage7078 ya I didn't look where you were from and my first thought since I'm from Canada was those will be fun in the winter...lol. Looks nice though ✌️
Not a big deal at all. Like with any rear wheel drive vehicle, you'd only have to be concerned with ramp conditions especially using bunk-style trailers in a tidal area with slick ramps.
@jimg2885 thanks man! In full disclosure, my dad had me driving a 34' rv towing a 20' boat on private roads at 14 😎! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I believe the tow length is from the front of the tow vehicle to the rear of the trailer NOT the rear of the boat or drives so basically the taillights at about 5:18 of your video
Great job. You see motorhomes towing big boats and large race or toy hauler trailers in California all the time. I have been doing it for over 30 years and actually have been over legal length many times. To the river with a boat and PWCs in the summer and to Glamis with a sandrail and quads in the winter. No issues at all except for a blown trailer tire every so often. Have fun and be safe!
Thanks, I agree no big deal! So many people had commented they couldn't believe I was pulling the boat with the RV so figured would show how easy it is... have fun stay safe out there!
So I picked up the Rubican shocks and springs used for just a few hundred dollars. The front leveling kit is from Rough country and was about $100 and the rear spacers were about $150 so you could put everything together for less than $500 if you do the install yourself.
So it was a company called Alumifab Marine, I have more details about it in the video below: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-z8SwJD56duk.htmlsi=FHXmkh8M2lMBO3wF
The blower system works well but it does draw some power and if the power goes down it does block airflow so you need to make sure your power system is up to the task when your running all your accessories! When running all my lights it can draw to much power. I have had to manage the power usage but it works well when I don't run everything all at once.
@@wernergarage7078did it also sit level front and back with the icon rear spacer or would you recommend doing the daystar 3/4 rear spacer instead to level it out ?
It's sits fairly level for me, keep in mind the rear springs are for the max tow, front springs are rubicon (which raises the front up a bit over the S)
Thanks for posting the review,I'm going to be ordering one for my sportsman xp1000 very soon,I've seen a bunch of RZR guys posting positive feedback so I feel pretty confident taking the plunge.
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That's a good way to do it. I decided to cut them proportionately as I wanted adjustability for different drivers but the washer method can really customize it to the specific driver