I have a GE Monogram ZIPS480DTASS purchased 2008 my inverter shorted out and I changed it but before I did I put the unit in test mode and now it beeps 3x when pressed (see video) ru-vid.comuTDwJp5wg58 and to add insult to injury its not defrosting properly (maybe cools at preset temp for 3 days) after that temps start to rise drastically (freezer 22F fridge 55F) after that I have to unplug it for a night, then I'll notice water from the drain tube, power the unit on and repeat. what do I need to replace to get this unit working properly? Which pins on the main control board do I need to test
Wood poles have become almost, if not more, expensive than steel or concrete. (Due to the pressure treating and strength required.) And, in earthquake prone areas, wood poles won't crack or bend like concrete and steel can.
I have had this replaced 6 times and the reason is because they aren't replacing the black tubes that come with it. I see you are also not replacing the tubes. I was told by GE the tubes need to be replaced at the same time. Do you have a video for that?
I feel lucky. My GE Monogram 48 is 24 years old and my condensate pan just failed. I’ve got a small river of ice so far and the ice buildup is also keeping the fan from running. Thanks for the great video of the replacement procedure.
Saw them perform Dec2023 St.Catherines, Ontario Canada - fabulously crazy fun , so honored to have had this experience....audio here does not do them justice ❤
I am looking at one of these built in GE Monogram 48" (couple years older - 2001) for a friend, refrigerator side is not cooling. She has had 3 Appliance Services look at it, they tell her the compressor is bad while the freezer sits at -5F. There is NO air entering the refrigerator side even with the baffle in the opening between the freezer & Fridge removed. The ice maker was removed a few years ago and I think that it has something to do with the problem. There is no back pressure below the evap fan to push cold air into refridg., the air has a straight shot down into the freezer. Also wondering what the path is to get air to the other side of the evap coil, maybe that path is pluged. Should be like a furnace, there is a cold air return duct system. There seems to be plenty of cold air coming off the evap coil into the freezer. But ZERO air blows into the refridg. Ideas?
Bless you for making this video. Our refrigerator is the same model and within three months of the same manufactured date as yours. Same problem with the icicles but I thought it was the inlet valve which I replaced underneath the refrigerator. Tons of fun laying on your stomach with your head, turned sideways trying to do that. Anyway, it looks like that did not solve the problem, and I finally noticed that the water and iceicles went all the way to the top instead of overflowing from the ice tray as I had originally thought and found many posts which said that would be the problem. Not looking forward to this particular fix, but with your video you show it as something very doable and a good chance to clean out the freezer :-). UPDATE: SOLVED This problem on mine. Mine has exactly the same issues shown on yours with the long icicles coming down and pooling on the floor of the freezer. What I found out, and I think was mentioned in some other comments is that the only reason you have icicles is because the heater under the pan is working, therefore the problem is the melted. Water is not draining. It turns out the tube for the drain was plugged up with whatever ends up in tubes after 25 years.… Before you do any of this check that the tube is clear try blowing compressed air through that’s what works for me. Cheers.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Darn frustrated trying to replace the freezer temperature sensor (frozen fresh food compartment). Gave up when I got to pulling out the pan (thought it was just styrofoam insulation, now I know thanks to your awesomely informative & well filmed video kudos to the wifey). Can I get to the temp sensor once the pan is removed or do I need to remove the evaporator? yikes! Was hoping there’s an easier way through the outside top grille panel. Gerrrr. Schematics online don’t show the exact location of the temp sensor. Ziss480nxbss 2013. No local repairmen. Recommend by GE repairman said he had to pull the fridge out to repair from the back!!!🤪an extra $500!!
Yep..u were right..this monogram is a pieces of craps. I had to replace inverter and control board in this July and now defrost heater. Thanks very much
Hi My monogram got same problem freezer -14F but fridge 50F. Will follow u video to fix it. My is 2004 so i could not find the heater switch. Please tell me where is it. Also any idea when freezer door open/close therenis bubbles sound inside compressor tank. But no bubbles soundnqhen fridge door open/close. Thanks
I have one too. I agree it's an unreliable piece of crap. I fixed a handful of issues already. I may be having a similar issue. Except I am seeing water fall down the left side of the fridge and pool inside the ice maker. Mine was bought in 2010 and its still a piece of crap
Great video. Bought the GE monogram in 2014, and what a piece of crap. Replaced the compressor, inverter, ice maker, damper, heater pan, bimetal defroster switch twice to name a few. The freezer shelves have rusted and the unit hardly turns off, and it uses a tun of electricity. Will never touch GE again. Makes me wonder, they do make airplane engines, right?
Thank you for the video. I was about to replace the defrost heater but now I'm not sure if that's my problem or if it's the heating element in the pan. Do you have experience replacing the Defrost Heater Assembly WR51X322? Same fridge as yours.
My hunch: reason why this pan fails is that it becomes waterlogged and frozen. Good voltage and proper resistance = coil cannot overcome the frozen environment. They send this pan with some sealant on the pan side, but it likely fails over time. You can feel the weight difference when replacing this part. Next time someone goes in for this repair, compare the weights of the old pan vs the new and share!
I have a cabinet depth GE Profile built in model #PSB48YSXASS, which I believe has the same issue. My defrost tray is somewhat smaller than yours but a pain in the ass to get to never the less. I have a couple questions if you don't mind. #1 Is there a way short of buying a new unit for comparison to know what the proper resistance specs should be? I noticed that even your bad unit showed to be good. #2 My unit is a 2009 model. I don't think I have a defrost timer. is it feasible to connect the old defrost tray directly to 110v ac for testing? Or am I looking to get fried? #3 Is there anything else I should be looking at that could be a source of my problem? For example there is a wire loop with 4 small ceramic cubes attached that extends into the drain tube from under the tray. I have no idea what it is and it does not appear on any parts explosion diagram. And lastly, What's it gonna take to get you to come over and fix the damn thing for me? 😁 Thanks! Would greatly appreciate and advice you can offer.
Wow. This is an excellent video as it shows how to disassemble the panels step by step. Thanks for the info as it will definitely make my fix more 'pleasant'.
I have the 36" Monogram, and I hate hate hate it. But it's a built in, so I'd have to replace it with an exact same size model, which would cost around $10k. I've had several repairs professionally done by GE, and now I think I have a bad air damper. Grrr
Once again too much band and no dynamics because the drummer is full out on the snare drum through the whole song. Slow it down about 5-bpm and let the singers control their wonder voices.
Bob…you’re fantastic! We are having the exact same issue with our exact same refrigerator and model. Difference is, we just replaced our floors 6 months ago with hardwood, so our floor by the fridge was damaged too. Yikes! I’m in Deerfield Illinois and am going to call in ABT electronics in Glenview….can you give me your best guestimate on price for parts and then labor that would be fair? Thanks Bob…and btw….if you haven’t, you should be hired by GE to teach this stuff AFTER the pay you for re-engineering their crappy kitchen appliances which are awful…. Again….thanks Bob.
i love how in tune and on beat he is with the music… it makes it so much more entertaining where you can’t keep your eyes off… the other contortionists incirque are amazing, but i haven’t seen any bring it close to this level yet.
This is a great diy video, but here’s the thing. Just going through all of this project I learned a few things that make this undertaking much cheaper. First thing is that your original pan is made much stronger then the replacement part. Secondly they sell the heating Element as a stand alone item. Here are a few photos that will help you in the diy project. Sorry I can’t figure out who to attach photos , but shoot me a hello and I’ll hook you up with everything I learned on doing this project. But here’s at least the part number of the heating Element off eBay WR51X321 60.00 so I went ahead and picked one up. Now my unit was built in 08, 1995 so my pan is made of Steel
First I admire you for doing this aa a DIY- this was very complicated . If I had done this and filmed it RU-vid would have taken it down for all the foul language. I have the same unit, built in 95. Just took it out for floor remodel. Had severe rust on top of unit over the ice maker which then dripped down back wall. The unit was installed to specs- the issue was not enough space above the unit to allow for adequate ventilation IMO. This allowed for condensation . Getting a new fridge so I built a chimney - drilled a 2/14 inch hole in the floor and top of the cabinet above Put a piece fo PVC pipe in the hole to allow the heat to escape . Even on the new units GE does not put any vent slots in the front top grill. Don't understand why but that's GE. Thanks again for doing this. Hey, loved the electric screw driver. Kobalt????
I would agree. 100 percent total pos. The hotter and more humid the weather ges. . The bigger pos it is. With today's repair charges that repair would most likely be $ 2000. Great info.
With those plastic insulators that are lightweight when compared to the old porcelain/glassware, they make easy work of lifting those new crossarms into place.