@@MannyRodriguez555 the original cable won’t work on the shifter side . Part Number: BMM-80831 3 feet is the shortest one. The one supplied with the kit is 5 feet way too long.
@@vikenlink is BMM-80831 the one you got to make work? I saw a comment you posted you used a 16” and hoping I can find the same thing to make installing smooth
@@MannyRodriguez555 B&M Super Duty Race Shifter Cables 81831… this must be the one since it’s the shortest one available so regardless of what I may of said on the video. This will make a big difference. You just need to run the loop farther back near the back of the transmission before coming forward towards the transmission cable bracket. Hope this helps.
@@nikkilabuschagne557 I suggest you buy a service manual…. It’s not a hard job if the motor is out of the frame… the process is straightforward but long winded to explain.
If you’re rebuilding your engine and have the extra cash, it’s worth the investment going to a 416 ci engine. I originally had the LS3 in my ride. Loved the power delivery with a mild street BTR Stage 1 NA LS3 camshaft. Going to a 416 with a BTR Stage 2 cam ….the first advantage over the LS3 I noticed is tons of extra low rpm tire melting torque. Im basically getting an extra 100 hp and a 120 foot pounds of torque across the power curve without sacrificing any power tradeoff down low. It’s really not a waste of money as long as you can afford it. Part Prices have gone up about 30% since I built my 416. If I was going to do it again today.. I would spend the extra cash if I could afford to. Good luck with your decision and project.
@@matt81z28 that’s my achilles heel. I can’t put a big cam in my car without losing drivability because it’s an automatic….stall Converters are very expensive. If I had to do it all over again, definitely would go with a 6 speed manual. BTR Stage 3 or 4 cam with the new performance design LS3 XS intake manifold. That’s the new LS3 performance intake manifold that makes more power across the power curve. The intake itself is worth an additional 30-40 hp alone on my current combo. Just not in my budget right now.
Old video… turned into a 416 ci . Intake was swapped for a LS3 intake and ICT Billet alternator power steering bracket. Oh this engine went into a second generation TransAm. I used the Holley Terminator x max fuel injection system. You have the choice of 24 or 58 tooth reluctor system. I went with a 58 tooth on the 4 inch Stroker crankshaft.
I bought this type shifter for my 1972' Mercury Montego with a C4 Transmission, mine shifts smooth and easy. I shift with one to two fingers. I can also bang the shifter with no problem. I have a 351 Cleveland engine with 3:90 rear gear ratio. Great shifter. 😁
Ya… the hard shifting issue was directly related to the fact the B&M second generation F body shifter kit comes with a way to long incorrect shift cable. I ended up purchasing a B&M…. Don’t quote me on this but I believe was a 16 or 14 inch cable which was the shortest one they supply. So I replaced it from the one that came with the kit… can’t remember off hand but it was over 20 inches long causing binding issues. Now she shifts nicely with little effort.
i love how it slides to neutral, like you said it's unlikely when you.re in gear or racing, it's good because you can always slide to neutral at a stop light, when you're getting older and don't want to pedal the brake so hard. i like it for going through drive thrus or in stop and go driving, a lot of times i never have to hit the brake, just slide up and down, makes it fun and saves wear on trans. great vid
Shifting hard, if I can give my 2 cents worth, most problems I have found with B&M, self experience, is the cables, if they are bound any or not set right you have hard shifting. I personally wish the engineers would go back to the drawing board.
That’s exactly why they are hard to shift, in my case the supplied cable was 3 times the length my application required. And the shifter I ordered was vehicle specific. Why the cable was so long… doesn’t make sense. I ended up having to ordering the correct length cable from B&M . Now the shifter performs nicely.
As much as they have done this, seen this, they ought to be able to tell cables vehicle/transmission specific; buy a shifter, 200-4r transmission, okay you need this cable and box it separaterly or somthing. Glad you're going! :)@@vikenlink
Has anyone replaced this into a 5 speed auto? I notice the gear numbers are different but same shift points. Mines is 2,3,4,DNRP? Can I worked this? I just like the classic style of b&m shifters
Technically it should work…BUT there’s a shift cam on the shifter that stops the shifter in the selected gear. I’m guessing if you were to remove the shift cam… it’s basically a flat piece of metal with the shift notches. Try making a copy with closer notches with the extra notch for 5th. Might work… I’m just brainstorm the idea .
Hello. Do you have a manual for the ls3 engine with the aluminum block? tightening torque of cylinder head and crankshaft bolts. Can you share this information?
Hello. Can I ask you for help in building an LS series motor? I have an aluminum cylinder block from a Chevrolet Tahoe. 5.3 liters. cylinder heads from L92 with large intake manifold windows.
Hello, you can’t use the L92 cylinder heads on a 5.3L engine. The bore size is to small on the 5.3L and rectangle port head valves will hit the edge of the cylinders plus the head volume is to big so even if they did fit…… you’ll loose lots of compression and power. You need 243 heads which come with smaller chambers for compression
That’s an emissions thing, you can vent the positive crank case vacuum pressure back into the intake to get the oil and gas vapour burnt through combustion… believe it or not it also reduces pre-ignition detention some what when you use it. I have my positive crank pressure (which in my case is very little if any) coming out of my valve cover, into an oil catch can through a PCV into my throttle body. I actually did the rooting recently.
The summit Racing pro LS stroker assembly was designed to fit without any clearance issues. However, I did check clearances just in case . I slightly clearance the time chain cover for the thicker hi volume hi pressure oil pump and double roller timing chain set. Forgot to mention I had to shim the windage tray 1/4 inch lower , otherwise it would hit the big end of the rods.
I get them off of Chevy Astro vans. I take the whole thing including the master cylinder and power steering pump. They have a remote power steering reservoir and will bolt to the stock LS bracket. Usually the master cylinder is larger on hydroboost because you don't want it to be too touchy and smash your face on the windshield. You definitely need to match parts when doing brakes. Many brake kits use the GM metric calipers with a 2-1/2" piston which is too small. AFCO racing sells brand new GM metric calipers that have 2-3/4" piston. That 1/4" change in piston size equates to @ 1000 pounds more clamping force on the brake rotor. Always do the math to make sure your system is matched and works well. Pedal ratio, boost force, master cylinder bore size, line pressure, and caliper or wheel cylinder size.
Should of installed a 18 tooth for more top end believe it or not the bike will take off faster with taller gearing i know crazy huh it pulls the gear just as fast cause 2012 zx14 has a longer stroke it wount rev like a 2006 to 2011 they have same bore but 2012 has long stroke 1352cc to a 1441 i own both bikes and i think on a good day the 07 would win my 07 not running now but going to put it back on the road i had so many good ti n es on my 07
Funny….. I had a 09 same colour scheme as my 2014. That being said I think 200 mph is probably fast enough. I’m more into the acceleration and G forces produced even though I’m heading towards top speed in the process lol.
Hi.. thanks for watching, hope you subscribed.. The chain is a RK XW-Ring Chain PN# GB530GXW. The sprockets are called Super Sprox PN RST-489:42-GOLD 530 chain 42 Teeth Hope this helps Cheers
Now the kids are grown and gone I can get back to it. I am doing a Ls3/6L80 swap on my 03' Crown Vic Police Interceptor. I found a Ls3 block for $500. I just dropped it at the machine shop last week.
That Bird is gorgeous. I had a 81' Turbo Trans Am back about 97' or 98'. I bought it because the guy thought be punched a hole in a piston. NOPE!!! Oil seals on the turbo were bad so it was smoking the neighborhood out lol. Paid $600 for it. It looked brand new. DecKs were perfect. Car had been garage kept. Black on black car. Not a spit in the interior. Went to Garrett and bought a new turbo for $400. Lol. But being young and stupid. The guy and I had a falling out before I got the title so I junked it for $50. The sad thing was 6 months later we made up. You live and you learn.
@@tokslut with the FIS 60LB injectors, I had a hard time starting the car fanning the gas pedal to get it started, I also found myself adjusting the IAC motor all the time because it kept fluctuating adjustment after adjusting. The Holley injectors are night and day. Starts up immediately without touching the gas pedal and idles way smoother. The IAC motor is now at a steady reading. Was definitely worth replacing with Holley injectors.
1 7/8 long tube headers into 3 inch collectors into two catalytic converters then into X pipe into duel Brola mufflers all the way down 3 inches tail pipes . I have a video getting the exhaust done
@@vikenlink I’m getting the same setup minus the cats.was worried the 3” exhaust would be much louder.I’m older now and don’t enjoy the mind rattling exhaust like I once did,trying to tone it down a bit. Thanks
@@johnnyhotrod well it’s not quite as the video sounds, it’s a little noisy. I guess the mic doesn’t really reflect how loud it sounds. I prefer driving with the T Tops removed.. it’s definitely sounds quieter exhaust wise with the tops off. I’m sure it would be really noisy without the cats, the cats act like a resonator.
@@vikenlink I know there’s only so much you can do with a muscle car.My last setup was a 396 with headers and 2-1/2 exhaust,got the quietest mufflers I could and still it was over bearing. It’s part of it,I’ll just do my best to control it
Ya I hear ya, headers really make the exhaust system bark louder then cast manifolds. Cast manifolds dampens the sound where headers being so thin that they resonate and really define the individual exhaust pulses.
Nice job I’m considering doing the same for a 67 Camaro,my biggest concern is hooking up. Tough to find a happy medium Going to have to learn throttle control if I do it
@@TineEdong ya I know.. OG shifters are hard to find.. I discovered recently that you can get reproduction units at firebird central or classic industries. Identical to OEM
Hi Joseph, I actually never heard of come racing… the rod torquing process was something I came up with. I’m sure there are some engine builders that torque the rod bolts with the same procedure.😎
Just briefly checked out come racing… looks like interesting stuff and I will watch come racing’s channel . I’m assuming it’s from Australia down under since they call the LS the Holden engine.
Got one in my 85 C10. Love it!!! 3 gear tranny with this thing is awesome. Second gear is the sweet spot when cruising. Gotta love being able to drop a gear and gun the thing then go through ‘em all. Neutral can trick you, I have thought I’m in 2nd and not 3rd then went to neutral and the thing screams. But nice it won’t let you hit reverse
Yeah I used the stock condenser, apparently it’s not as efficient as the modern ones. The only modification was reworking the relay and IAC control kick up settings through the Holley Terminator x max system. I did replace the dryer, filter and A/C compressor hi low lines. Works fine.
@@vikenlink Sweet, I'm in the middle of 81 TA LS 6.0L swap. Can you do a video on how you did the relay and Terminator X Max setup. I have the same Holley system.
@@gregoryhogeweide4121 I’ll try…the cars kinda put away for the winter. I might do something new with it and add the A/C wiring. The terminator x has the a/c output full throttle cut off switch and A/C IAC motor step up output on the harness. You’re gonna need two relays since the compressor doesn’t have a dedicated ground wire. The unit is grounded when bolted to the bracket. So you need a relay to control ground coming out of the terminator harness to another relay that controls power.
