Mines the same. But mine has quit a few hoses just loose. Trying to figure out where they all go. Probably part of the egr. Previous pple removed the egr system.
Working on couple different jobs/videos but will prioritize D21 if this video gets 100 likes. Thank you for all likes, comments, and subscribers on all videos.
It looks like transmission case most likely has to get separated. The speedometer gear is on a shaft towards the end with a snap ring. Just not sure if there is another way to remove or replace. www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/w4hhsbijzwgc5mzqylej0/AFJytfUSeUY4EwNowS4JQDE?rlkey=iof5v5tfook54nj2q6p7y9737&st=g29xjojm&dl=0 This link has some pictures of transmission. Hope this is helpful.
The second connector is for the beeping sound when the key is in slot and door is open. There is a position switch (two wire cable going near key slot) in the original one to alert when key is inserted. Truck starts and runs fine with this cable disconnected. Hope this is helpful.
The complete console has to come out to get to screws that hold in the radio support. The screws were missing on this car, so it did not have to, but if the screws are installed for radio support, center console has to get removed or loosened to access screws.
A tiny bit more work but what i did for that 12mm bolt connected with the tio Wingnut, i removed the bracket holding the a/c line. Then used a socket instead to access that bolt a little easier
Nice vid , thank you ! Can I ask why the centre console needs to come out ? I'm running the manual civic 7 so mine is a little different. Can you not just remove the centre dash console and leave the gear stick centre console in place?
The center console needs to come off because there are 2 bolts that hold in the radio support. At 2:16 mark, the threads are visible, but bolts were missing in this car. The center console with manual transmission looks similar, if the bolts for radio support are still in place, the center console on your car is going to have to come out. The screws are near the front by cupholders but that trim does not come off separate. Hope this is helpful. Thank you for comment.
@thatonecarguy5201 thank you very much for replying , I got the whole thing apart and installed a new radio , big thanks to you bro 🙏 best of luck with your channel
This one is also off by about same 10-15 mph. The needle had come off and customer re-glued it back on. I think problem is more with the instrument cluster assembly. The new cable installed on this truck did not correct the MPH reading. It is still off by the 10-15 mph with new cable installed.
This car the airbag light would turn on and off on its own. Its possible after you fix and give some time the light might turn off (system sees there is no longer a problem), just not 100% sure.
I've seen on a couple occasions now and it worked for me too, just taking the fan out cleaning it up with compressed air and reinstalling it. Works like new again and was free!
This one needs a scanner able to connect to Airbag/SRS system. The auto parts stores will only clear the engine computer codes for the check engine light.
The A/C belt on this one is behind the power steering pump belt. You will have to remove the power steering belt first then remove and install a/c belt. Since the belt is already off, I would recommend just replacing it and installing a new one.
Yes, its OBD 2 scanner. Scanner is Autel Autolink AL619 - Works for Engine, ABS (brake) and SRS (airbag) lights. I purchased from amazon but its available couple different places.
Truck was stolen before and the ignition switch was internally damaged. The ignition switch bolts are “Shear Bolts” or “Anti-Theft Bolts”. These types of bolts have a head to screw the bolt on but after a certain tightness the head of the bolt breaks off and a smooth, flat surface is left. This is used to make it harder to remove the bolts for security reasons. The ignition switch also has the steering column lock built in, to lock the steering wheel when the key is not inserted. Thank you for the comment.
The grommets only come included with some of the more expensive blower motors. If you search “rubber grommet with insert” or “vibration grommet” you may be able to find a universal one that will fit. Hope this helps.
Will make sure to do complete and full installs going forward. I would complete this install, but I do not have car anymore. Trying to get another civic to continue repair videos, will do an alarm again if possible. Thank you for feedback.
This white grommet is what holds the cable up inside the instrument cluster. There is a slot in the dashboard for the white grommet to clip into. On the new cable the white grommet is secured towards the top also with spring. Installation video is posted. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--z2gUU8QHxg.html
Ensena que part # "SMP S973" or "SMP S2854" es para este car. Aye de dos pins y de tres pins, depending qual ocupa. El nombre es - Door Lock Actuator Connector. www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,2004,civic,1.7l+l4,1425451,electrical-connector,door+lock+actuator+connector,15847
Sorry but I no longer have the car. I'm working on getting another low price Civic that needs a lot of work. These are Repair Instructions for the removal of the door handle. Hope it helps. www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/m5aibshqgoqezc579kasj/Front-Door-Outer-Handle-Replacement.pdf?rlkey=shsi4b6nr8ebuwsqhp71l9fid&dl=0 I will make a video of the lock removal when I get a hold of new car. Thank you for the comment/request.
This ended up being a 3-6 code for me, later on I scanned again and it became a 9-3. 3-6 codes are just a range of possible codes due to poor ground or some other electrical fault that the computer module cant discern. Honda had no idea, I was stumped too. Just clear it and scan again until it becomes a meaningful code.. 3-6 ... thats just what it means, its in the service manual if you search deep... you're welcome.
So my Honda Civic LX 2004 connects the remote but it doesn’t unlock or lock, and while I was using it the alarm went off, does mine already have the keyless entry installed?
I am not too familiar with alarm systems on these but found some info. These models had the keyless entry option that locks and unlocks the doors and also the better option for an Alarm system that will go off, if doors are opened or car is disturbed. The keyless entry option will only lock and unlock the doors. With the remote you can also trigger the panic alarm, but this is different than the better “Antitheft alarm” that is used when car has the complete alarm system. Interior will have the red flashing indicator light when system is armed. If car has no indicator light, car does not have the alarm system option. These cars also have the key immobilizer used with a chip in the key and a reader/ring near the ignition switch. Hope this is helpful.
If remote works to activate panic alarm, remote/aerial connection to car should be good. Issue could be with door lock actuators or maybe a fuse/power supply problem to door lock actuators. If door locks work with inside door lock switch, problem can also be from the remote (panic alarm function works but locking and unlocking function does not). A second remote can help with diagnosis, if its available. Can see if spare key/remote operates in same way as normal remote being used.
Thank you very much for making this video. It helped me a lot. Only thing I had to figure out on my own was getting the rubber on the window rail/guide. I appreciate that you took the time to make this video. Many thanks!
Installing a good used part will fix the vehicle but that part has the chance of failing again sooner, compared to a brand new part. Door lock actuators go for about $25-$30 new. Considering the price and time it takes to replace, I would recommend just getting brand new. Some places also offer lifetime warranty on parts.
I purchase most parts through www.rockauto.com/ Easy to use site, lots of parts and great prices. www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1320231&cc=1425451&pt=13257&jsn=894&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq%2BEvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbh%2BYrdIIoJ2QvjAcW39YRTU02C77No248W9oPPOPBa0%2ByMrUiaYjGVdwQceOjej2TuRe8f1GOf47sMaJHuB2tqvqdSsnDMzZS%2BPFgkvTqkWLr446s14%2F76iSGLNGcucSznMyFKnAqW4lMdy%2FJe%2FasblIz1S307FDLwqkYkxLky26cnoNjfAD4%2Bi%2FCuLYLs%2FHF51ps0AjFiuYdIBDdawqyUtbHZabc2OwhX%2FdAauh8CwDRIJ9yVw2HKheSa5xvNEhRl1oFSIJJQHw
Hey there, I've had numerous Honda and Toyota and currently have a '12 Civic as well. The first number is viscosity at 0F. I would never deviate on the first number ....never heard of anyone doing that either. The only time I've heard of deviating on the at-temperature second number is Toyota regarding my '18 Camry where if you cannot find 0w-16, you can use 0w-20. On that note, being an engineer working in API rotating machinery design and engineering, I'd never deviate on that either, even if Toyota says you can do so briefly....why? Because they don't own the car and you'd never be able to prove the minute extra wear. On that note, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Amsoil Signature Series demonstrate the best cold pour demos on RU-vid, but ask any tribologist and they'll tell you to ignore that because pumping and pouring are two different things, and a positive displacement pump is never not going to be able to move oil (personally I agree with this but below -20F I'd want an engine block heater). Last tip: pre-fill your new oil filter....even those that are horizontal-mount can absorb quite a bit and it does result in a quieter first-start.
