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@@tahircalligraphy5281 Did you perform the first set of tests measuring battery voltage, loaded voltage and charging voltage? If so, what were the numbers? If you're getting 13.3 volts to the battery, it would see the charging system is working. You may have another issue.
Thanks, to my Dad and my Grandpa I’ve had my own “Man in his wisest years box” containing afull arsenal of items to hopefully get out of a unforeseen situation since I was sixteen years old My bike has a hidden bag containing a plug kit and if I’m any length of distance I have a sleek bag pack that can be wore under one’s shirt that doesn’t interfere with the kidney belt whist preventing one from looking like a total dorky man in his wisest year yet rolling down the Highway on his Bitchen WCC CFL Rigid big motor external belt drive screaming out the WCC FU Pipes!! Personally, it’s been my experience all plugs including non-glue type plugs all require glue to not leak!
I know this is a very old video, but there is a much better technique for installing rear wheel. It's not nearly as awkward and lengthy as your way. I know, that's the way I've always done it. I sure envy you tho, wish I was more accurate than a torque wrench!
Dude, you didn't advise about creating too much load on the inner race by the spacer on the inner races if bearings are pounded in too much. Also didn't mention anything about the tightness of the retainer. Not to nit pick, but beating on the bearing directly with the hammer isn't very professional. Looked like you struck the inner race a couple of times. If the rear wheel locks up by an improper install, driver and passenger could be killed or seriously injured. Might wanna delete this, just to be safe.
I have an 18" Lester on My CB. I was able to get the Break Side Bearing no problem. But the Sprocket Side will not Budge. Is there a Retainer or something? Any advice is Welcome.
Let's start by verifying the battery/charging system. Measure the battery voltage with nothing on, then set the meter to record the "Min/Max" as shown in the video and start the bike (or engage the starter anyway). If it does start, let it run for a minute or two. You should begin with a battery voltage of at least 12.4 - 12.5 volts. Anything lower is an undercharged battery. The low reading on start up is loaded voltage and should remain above 9.6v - if not, the battery is bad. Finally, running voltage should be around 13.5 - 14.5v. If your numbers are all good, then its likely not the charging system causing the issue. OH - and be sure that the battery connections are tight. I've had issues with them loosening up more than once.
@@SouthernBikerTV All good at the battery, 12.8 to 14 while running. I narrowed it down to grounding issue, either at the stator or the regulator. Battery ground looks good with the Star washer and tight on the post. I can't get the OL on my ohms screen so I'm going to try AC or DC reading?at the stater plug while bike is running. How do I check the regulator to battery cable for continuity or ground? There's a ground wire across from regulator, Not sure what it's for.Thank You
Harley Softail Standard comes with spoked wheels except this year. So this video's helpful. Most likely I'll be buying a previous year. Spoked wheels use tubes.
Thought you guys would get a kick out of this. Go to the 6 minute mark. Be prepared to pee yourself. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1q1tDKtCE-U.html
@@SouthernBikerTV yeah it's sad that the Mo-Co is using inferior components inside of these transmissions to include the use of Chinese bearings. It's a 30k plus motorcycle for crying out loud! Geeez...
Never pound directly on the bearing itself like this guy. Also, clean the hub completely before installing the first bearing. Then you won't have to spray your brand new sealed bearing like he did. Probably shouldn't make a video if you're not sure how to do it yourself. Some poor guy is going to watch this and make the same mistakes!
Didn't pound directly on the bearing but the bearing outer race. Clearly said not to direct force on the seal area or inner race in order to avoid damage to the bearing.
I have a 550k and the rear bearing retainer is very different than this one, on this one if im seeing correctly there are 2 slots? on mine thats how it is up front but it has 4 slots, in the back the retainer has 4 holes, its funny how sometimes we cant think of the obvious but i saw this guy cut a flat piece of what looked like angle iron and stick it between the flats and use a crescent sideways and bam, came right out, didn't mess it up at all, i was like "why didn't i think of that?" ha ha ha Im restoring mine completely and i was gonna do my rear wheel but i might have to end up buying the tool,i messed up my front one and that one is only like 12 bucks, no biggie but the back one is high dollar, its already a little buggered but not bad, still salvageable.
Simply poke holes in a piece of corrigated cardboard showing the bolt pattern to stick bolts in as you remove them. You don't lose any bolts and install them back in the holes they came from. No guessing. Great videos. Thanks.
its not so much the vibration as it is the wind acting like a big lever on those tiny inserts . usually the taller the shield the sooner you have to do this . the next time you buy a new inner . poor design
Yeah, that’s how it’s supposed to go. Try putting a new tire on at the same time. There is no pealing or squeezing your hand in to poke the valve stem through. The tire is so stiff you cannot manipulate it at all. When I get the tire half on there isn’t enough play to squeeze the tube in. I’m going to have to put the tire on with the tube already in it and figure out how to get the stem through.
Great video! I was thinking about replacing my front and rear tires, I used to do it whenever I had to, when I was young! (I'm 62 now, with arthritis.) But I think I can be able to do the job! Thanks for all the info! ( It reminded me how really difficult it is.)
Harley makes reduced forward control kits that will move the forward controls back about an inch or two. Not sure what models they make for them, but check with your local dealer. There are also aftermarket kits available from companies like J&P Cycles (www.jpcycles.com/motorcycle-forward-control-relocation-kits)
ive just ordered a set for my 2013 SG, i picked up second hand.... would you say they are a nice loud pipe... how would you describe them and do they get louder after initial install... cheers
Trent_SIEMPRE_DOS_RUEDAS I think that all aftermarket pipes are the same when it comes to loud...difference is in tone...and I liked the overall sound of these pipes. If you want loud, look at shotguns or radial shorties...just remember that taking away exhaust back pressure in favor of loudness will reduce top end performance. And be sure to add a tuner if you don’t already have one. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tnX0pl7i9Ms.html
Southern Biker TV Cheers. Yes running a Thundermax wave tuner and it’s got Crane Cams. Exhaust header is Rinehart slimline and presently got SE cannons with baffles removed. .... don’t like the drone of the cannons now. So new Crusher Mavericks on the way. 😎
what do you think? I changed points and capacitors, but never removed the plate, still in the same spot. So if I adjust point gap correctly, my timing should still be on, and I won't need to mess with it......is this right?
@@SouthernBikerTV Thanks....not easy with these older guys....something else funny: when I first got the bike and wanted to change plugs....#2 very hard to get socket on it....the plug hole must have been originally drilled off the correct angle. The block had been ground, removing at least quarter inch so a socket would fit in there. Had to have been done at factory.
Early this summer my buddy's ride a 92 Evo Ultra was losing headlight power. When we pulled over , the bike barely started but his volt gauge was showing 10V. I always carry way too many tools !! so we did a volt check with my meter same result & no fluctuation from revving motor. We checked all connections from battery positive circuit to ground back to volt reg. & found the issue at plug going into stator pins insert at the motor. I simply used needle nose pliers & crimped the female ends to assure a good contact put a little dielectric grease & pushed back onto stator pins.At this point, the bike needed a push to start but within a couple miles, the gauge had climbed to 12V & eventually climbed & maintained at 13.5V .The trip & all issues have never re-occured since, but after this particular trip, did install a new boot holder a metal clip used to keep boot in place from vibration & losing contact. He never had one & was overlooked since owning the bike a few years . Years earlier on my friend's 72 Shovel a similar problem had occurred, but we traced by shear luck !! The ignition switch brass rotatory plate in the switch housing was creating a break in the charging circuit ! As we were about to give up, I was rocking the switch between on & headlamp on position & the light brightened up. Found a dealer further west on our planned route who coincidentally had ordered one for a customer & was never picked up Go figure ! I changed out the switch right there in the parking lot !Issue solved... The trip must go on !
My buddy showed me a trick, get some old primary cover bolts and cut the bolt heads off with cut off wheel to use as extra line up pins to keep gasket in place. With the heads cut off you have a nice little alignment stud. Thread them.loosely into primary and once you get a couple bolts started just run the alignment studs out with your fingers. I keep about 3 of them in my tool box and a clean out tap to cleAn all the junk out of thread holes n primary. Keeps bolts from stripping over time!
