SIR Thanks a lot for making no nonsense videos and very short but important technical video. REQUESTING YOU TO MAKE A SIMILAR VIDEO COMPARING OME & TOUGHDOG FOAM CELL SUSPENSIONS
Omg. This! 🎉🎉🎉 Literally said the exact same thing Started beeping every time I open the door Not sure why. I looked through the digital menu on the display Looked in the manual Couldn't figure it out I google it and find this. Problem solved!! THANK YOU KIND SIR! ❤
2013 Camry, the open/close would not work, thought a fuse blew. This issue was the tilt was up a smidgen. I tilted to 'seat' position and open/close worked. Also, no more alert-beeps! THANK YOU!
You can definitely see the vehicle moving up and down more with the Monroe shocks vs the OEM. It's similar to my recent experience replacing the rear shocks on my Lexus RX 450h; I replaced the OEM Lexus shocks with the recommended KYB brand shocks and there is a noticeable 'intrusion' of up and down body movement due to the new shocks having more rebound and resistance to compression. Instead of 'floating' over the bumps while absorbing the bump, you end up feeling every dip and bump within the cabin as an up and down movement. I ended up buying a new set of OEM shocks and the ride quality was restored - no more harshness. The key to ride quality seems to be finding the balance between suspension compliance to road conditions without affecting the vehicle's inertia to remain level while keeping the tire in constant contact with the road. Too much shock rebound and the vehicle is forced 'up and over' a bump, which creates a harsh ride.
I purchased the Monroe quick struts for my Volvo and they were nothing but problems. Loud squeaking on both sides, bracket was welding in the wrong position holding the speed cable and I will never purchase a Monroe product.
The OEM had more damper movement. Simply put, I think Monroe would have given a stiffer ride. I'd go for the OEM any day. It is tuned specifically for the vehicle in question. I guess I would be buying onmy OEM shocks for my Fiat Linea instead of aftermarket supplies.
Test is not proof of one being better than the other. Why not get a set of new oem to compare to the new Monroe shocks? I understand it costs money, but your putting this video out here saying this is factual proof, but there are many variables you didn't address. How about a new video to address longevity or performance today?
I tried kyb gas a just and kyb gr2 on my Silverado, both made it ride like a rock, pun intended. Monroe Magnum truck shocks made it ride smooth again, guessing it's the larger volume, because they're massive compared to the gr2s.
@@dutch3795 The shocks are doing two main jobs. The most important one is to control the spring, because if there was no shock, the spring would keep bouncing up and down as the energy that is stored in it from a bump just gets bounced around. The shock dampens the spring by taking that energy and turning it into heat in the hydraulic fluid of the shock. What you are seeing with the old OEM shocks here is not necessarily that they are more compliant to the road, but that they are not doing as good of a job controlling the spring and keeping a consistent pressure on the road. Notice that when a bump is hit, both shocks travel a similar amount - but the newer shock follows the road and the older one bounces more before coming back to rest. The other job they do is to control body movement, which is usually the "low speed" movement of the shock (high speed being something like hitting a bump) and is tuned differently inside the shock. A stiffer "low speed" shock will give the car more stable and predictable handling during quick/emergency maneuvers.
I’ve owned my umbrella for several years. Figured out why it would no longer crank up to its proper height. It’s not the crank falls off try not to damage it or break the string. The problem is canvas shrinks after being in the weather for so long. To fix the issue hacksaw approximately 1 inch off the end of every rod The unit will then crank up to its proper height once again. Be careful of the wiring where the switch is located
