Ever since opening our doors, we’ve assisted individuals achieve their pursuit of knowledge. We are committed to providing excellent education, training and resources so that our students will thrive in the endeavors they so choose. With flexible program options and great instructors, we’re sure you’ll be satisfied with your education at Boolits Builders LLC.
We want to provide a safe and friendly environment whether you’re picking up a gun for the very first time or are just brushing off some dust and need a little refresher. You’ll immediately feel at ease and will be provided with a hands-on, one-of-a-kind experience. All ages welcome with adult supervision. Beginning to intermediate levels of shooters.
copper sulfate. Apparently you can run the annoyed and cattle backwards and create the same solution you get RU-vid videos on that. thank you for watching
Thanks for the video. Very interesting. I see you only do one treatment to cover the ends. There is one ingredient that I don't understand why: The root kill. I can't find anything similar here in my country. Which ingredient is really of interest to the mix? Thank you very much for your reply. Best regards!
I am not worried about the lead level. However if you choose to do this method. Use all Necessary PPE (personal protection equipment) to keep yourself safe. Thank you for watching.
the one thing i will suggest is get some auto wire wrap or take your cable ties & wrap all those loose wire into 1 wire for a neater(as in cleaned up) configuration. have watch a couple of your videos. an you have loose wire everywhere getting in the way.
How do you get the copper plating to form thick enough to not break off? Mine is probably .001 inches thick and flakes of easily. If i leave it in there longer it just dissolves back into the water
Thanks for watching the video. For me, its slow and low. 1.10 Amps and as slow of a rotation of the drum as you can get it without stalling out. 10 Hours Minimum of a cook (soak) time.
Any thoughts on tolerance and thickness of copper coating. Are the boolett diameters enlarging in a way to interfere with safety and performance. a Are they selling boolett molds that compensate. Say for example using a 223 mold for 556.
To the best of my knowledge. You can order any size molds. Safety, that is for you to do your research. I have run into no issues as of yet. Thank you for watching
Im a potter. You can by copper in two forms. Copper carbonate; and copper oxide. Both in powder form. The stuff is relatively expensive but highly concentrated.
don't knock yourself about designing you did a great design. those that would say anything about your videoing skills are not watching for the great information thst you have provided. keep up the good work
How much do you pay for the stump remover. (potassium nitrate)? Buying bulk potassium nitrate from a pyrotech distributor might be a lot cheaper if your going to continue making big batches ? Love the video . Did you ever try copper coating steel ?
Something like this. www.amazon.com/Bringsmart-Bracket-Diameter-Gearbox-Reduction/dp/B0C7GSFBRW/ref=sr_1_7?crid=35MRJ2285VUWY&keywords=dc%2Bmotor&qid=1697717452&s=industrial&sprefix=dc%2Bmotor%2Cindustrial%2C71&sr=1-7&th=1 thank you for watching
Would you be interested in building one for me? I realize that with the amount of time it took you to develop this unit that the cost would be very high. I likely couldn't afford a fair price for a completed unit. I would want the whole thing so all I would need to do is put it into the reservoir, mix the soup and fire it up. $400?
I am flattered you can find the setups much cheaper than 400 online. With some research on your end ( copper plating barrels) I think there are a few companies overseas that offer professional more sturdy ones for like 200 and change. Thank you for watching.
I kinda wonder if ya ran the speed a little faster maybe the bullets moving around would make the bubbles, and wouldn't need the bubbler , very nice set up. awesome set up
@@boolitsbuildersllc.106 hmmm, well it seems you pretty much have it figured out, you think you'll ever be able to do a thousand or 5 all at the same time?? I really should give this a try
Dang, this is really kool. I really gotta quit watching you tube, sure getting pricey😂 Sure does seem like way more involved than powder coat, but if had a way to do 1000- 5000, set it and forget it, may be a really good option. Thanks alot for sharing this, appreciate it.
There used to be several videos on you tube about copper plating. About 50 years ago when I was 17 or 18 I made the mistake of sticking my ladle in a Cast Iron Pot without pre heating it. Boy was I glad I wear Glasses. Emptied that 10 pot all over my Mothers Kitchen ,burned a might to. I built a P.I.D. controller for my Lee Bottom Pour 20 lb. casting pot and it really helped the uniformity on long sessions. These days I just Powder Coat but I did think of trying copper plating.
Thank you for watching and commenting. Oh, that's quite an experience! I can relate. It happened to me during my third attempt at melting down range scrap from a dirt berm. Luckily, we were outdoors, and we had around 30 pounds of dirt and scrap in a pot. After melting it down, my friend added another shovel full, and suddenly, there was a loud BOOM, POP, WHAMMY. More than half of the pot emptied out. It seems our guardian angels were watching over us that day. We still have the splatter pattern as a reminder of the close call.
Cool process and concept. Smash test shows it flakes right off. Don't think this will survive the violence of a barrel throat. Pretty sure pure lead core is needed for proper adhesion of plating, and surviving the smash test.
thank you for watching, After firing 2,000 rounds, there is minimal barrel leading, comparable to what a high-quality powder coat would leave behind. Nonetheless, experimenting with pure lead poses a challenge in achieving the correct brinell hardness. Don't you think?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FNVESV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 To power everything I used an old desktop computer power supply. Thank you so much for watching
Great video. I built a system very similar to this during COVID when I couldn't find bullets in the store. Used the same solution and overall setup. I did discover that the 9mm needed to be sized to .354 BEFORE plating, or the plating would crack when sized. I've plated for 9mm, .380, .223, and 45 LC. I put it away when supplies came back, but this makes me want to play with it again. You can add a brightener (diluted MiraLAX) to the solution towards the end of run time and the boolets will come out shiny without tumbling. It needs to be added with each batch in my experience, and will eventually saturate the solution. Supposedly it can be removed with a charcoal filter to renew the solution, but I haven't tried that yet. Thanks!
Thank you for watching and if I may pick your brain a bit. How long did you cook-em for? Did you use any "pre-soak" any acids or anything like that? What did you find about long term storage? Did you resize 2 times or just pre-cooking?
@@boolitsbuildersllc.106 I would run them from 12 to 16 hours. When casting I would quench in distilled water and then hold them in acetone until I was ready for plating. The purpose was to prevent contact with air to minimize pre plating oxidation. This seemed to improve the adhesion of the copper to the lead, but it was never as good as powdercoating. I tried sizing to .356 (9mm) before plating and then again after plating to get back to spec, but the copper would always crack. That's when I decided it needed sized to .354 and plated back to the desired size. That's about the time that I put things away, and I haven't played with it since. I may tinker with it a bit more over the winter. One detail I remembered after commenting last night is that my solution used battery acid in lieu of salt. As far as storage i have a few hundred I made in 2021 that have been kept in a plastic jar with a lid. They look the same today as when I plated them, and are still shiny.
Roughly how long in the acetone? I tried muriatic acid for presoak (1 hr max soak time) and it turned them black. Sill coated just didn't stick as well.
@@boolitsbuildersllc.106 Just as long as it would take to set up the plating system after casting. Mainly to make sure the boolits were clean and never exposed to air. This usually never exceed 15 minutes or so. I never observed any discoloration.
@@grassyacreshomestead700hey! I’m preparing to build a system with the ammo crisis (that and wanting to get my ffl) and I was wondering if I could possibly get an email with some details on your setups for different round sizes? I work in the automotive industry so I have plenty of lead to smelt I just want to learn to make quality boolits. God bless!
this looks like a cool process. However. It states it removes a small layer of metal. So for me I think I would stick with the dry polishing for the boolits. Only takes an hour and I assume it keeps most of the plating intact using the dry polish method.
@boolitsbuildersllc.106 that's up to you, your time plus fabrication materials. I'm sure you have a nitch market for these. Patent it and make some money. I'd like to see your skill and Innovation rewarded.
That is very kind of you to say. You tell me I am not too good at the CAD software so probably 60 Hrs in R&D and $80.00 in parts and 52 hrs of 3d printing time, what you think would be a fair price?
Can you share what type of controller you are using and motor? I watch your other video of assembling the unit but I could not quite see the motor or controller very well. It would be cool if you you could share this. I would like to build one just like your. Looks cool. Thanks.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FNVESV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 the motor I took out of an old something Its been awhile. But its something along these lines www.amazon.com/Bringsmart-Bracket-Diameter-Gearbox-Reduction/dp/B0C7GSFBRW/ref=sr_1_7?crid=35MRJ2285VUWY&keywords=dc%2Bmotor&qid=1697717452&s=industrial&sprefix=dc%2Bmotor%2Cindustrial%2C71&sr=1-7&th=1 the power supply is out of an old desktop computer.
Absolutely genius ! Where did you find this rotating + electricity engine ? EDIT : Ok I’m figuring out the screen part is a variable power supply that probably feed a rotating tool… I thought that was an all in one but not sure ? I should watch the video again, there’s so much cool informations for a beginner like me !
Hello, great job and nice video, also dedicate myself to the copper plating of the ogives, let's exchange the results, I put a few videos on youtube: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oRFd64unCck.html I usa disillated water, copper sulfate and solphoric acid
I think that the axle on which chamber is rotating delivers the current; it's extended into the chamber and has a bent so the bullets can tumble around it. That's my observation only
you are correct the cathode is made of lead and old jumper cable. weights about 1lb to keep it in the bottom of the Boolits and is stuck through the hollow axle and does have a slight bend to keep it flat in the drum. Thank you for watching
I drilled a 1in x 1.5in hole and piece of wood and filled it with hot lead and used 2ft old jumper cable wire and put it in the lead as it was hot. Waited till it solidified Then I stuck it through the hollow axle. Thank you for watching
This is awesome. We need more small guys making components. Support ourselves and tell the big guys to screw off! I hope you are able to sell more than you can make!
