The color is purely driven by the voltage. It's nearly instantaneous, certainly far faster than I can dip it in and withdraw it. I was really happy with this, although I haven't gotten a good pink color, which needs above 85V. (Current draw gets pretty high and voltage drop is significant so I need a more dilute electrolyte)
@@smellsofbikes yes if the supplies are rated for floating, could work. Was thinking about rectifying output of a variac should get you some pretty good voltage range and a good amount of current, could be dangerous too
Keep at it, trials is not easy and can be seriously frustrating. However, it is worth keeping going. Things start to drop into place and improvements are really satisfying.
This is a 1500. My understanding is that they used this spring from 1971 to the end of production. But I think the earlier spitfires used a similar semi-swing-spring, as well. So: I don't know for sure but I bet you'll go through the same process.
Hi, is there any chance you could provide details how to design own constant velocity joint? I would like to create one with the parameters, that will fit my needs. Could you advise or share materials, that could help? Thanks.
I don't have a great answer for you. The only important thing is that the ball tracks need to be spherical. I drew this in freecad, and my process was defining six tracks that the balls went in, as three circles at 60 degree angles to each other, and I used that file to cut out material from both the outer and inner joints. That way I was sure the tracks corresponded with each other. I really struggled to get the bearing retainer ring designed right: that was trial and error. There's about 1 nozzle width of space between each of the prints. Both the inside and outside joints are just spheres with the tracks and clearance cut out of them. Sure wish I could machine one in aluminum!
Similar to how the real ones are: you force the thin shell around the inner section, insert that into the outside, tilt it way over to like a 70 degree intersection angle, and start popping balls in the exposed space. Coz, yeah, it won't come apart when the shafts are anywhere close to coaxial.
I imagine that when you burned out the PLA the mold broke on you. I've tried to do something similar to this building up layers of wet plaster of paris and then coating it in play sand. The best way to do shell casting is to use silica slurry and sand. In college we would break apart old shell casting molds and grade them into different levels of coarseness and use that after a few layers of silica slurry and sand to more quickly build up a thick shell. Silica slurry is kind of expensive for a hobbiest. I've read that you can use the 5 gallon premixed joint compond buckets from home depot to build up a shell, however from what I've read you need to water down the joint compound a lot. It's similar to what you are doing but the premixed joint compound doesn't cure like plaster of paris, it dries. I've never tried it though, maybe it works maybe it doesn't
Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. If the mold thickness is over a cm or so, I don't mind if it breaks because I can essentially tape it together and bury it in sand and pour anyway. This one had a section that wasn't coated enough, and when it cracked the pieces were too small to put back together. I have another sitting waiting to cast, but we've been on a no outdoor fires of any sort for many months so I'm waiting for precipitation.
By the way, Ransom & Randolph sell something called Plasticast. It's perfect for this because this is what it was designed for. I don't have any right now is all.
@@smellsofbikes I should have known something was up when I saw the BK. My gear is a mix of HP (Logic Analyzers, Frequency generator, Data Acquisition unit - the oldie but goodie HP stuff) and Rigol scopes. And of course meters, soldering/desoldering stations, and whatnot. And I surmise from your site that you are in Colorado? I grew up in Black Forest outside of Colorado Springs. What brought me here was a recommendation based some searches that I made for a "modern" version of these. Wegs Garage (TR4 channel) ran into the same problem as you and bought a replacement for theirs. But I suspect that Moss shipped them a positive ground version by mistake. It blew, of course, and the teardown revealed that it was a through hole device mounted as if it were a surface mount device. :)
@@MrWaalkman 90% of my stuff is HP since I used to work for them: all 1980's stuff. I used to go to summer camp in the black forest. There are modern replacements but as you've found they can have polarity issues. I put a buck regulator in this car for a while, during repairing this one, and now have a modern linear regulator doing its job but since the vintage one is repaired I could always chuck it in again.
@@smellsofbikes I remember the HP place in the Springs, I can't remember what they made. As for summer camps in Black Forest, all that comes to mind is La Foret. No summer camp for us, we just played in Kettle Creek. :) So what wire did you use to repair your Smith's? Or did you just pull the bad spot away from the bar to isolate it? And it looks like it uses Litz wire.
I just jamed a couple chisels between the leafs to get the plate and bushing in .... MAKE SURE THE 4 BOLT HOLES ARE SYMMETRICAL TO THE LOCATING KNOB ON THE BOTTOM OF THE SPRING ... this is an ounce Of prevention to insure it bolts right up... I did this by myself, I had the spring in and out a couple times to get it right in 100' heat😤😓
It's a nortel midrange. I looked at oxygen concentrators but I've never used enough oxygen to justify the cost; there's a place just down the street that sells oxygen (tanks/exchange.) Do you use a concentrator? Any recommendations? Camera is just my cellphone rubber-band attached to a chemistry ring-stand. I desperately need better camera choices, and would love to hear suggestions.
@@smellsofbikes your camera recording looks great. I am using a local concentrator. So I can’t recommend any company to you. That torch could also melt boro as I have researched. So a concentrator with 10 liter/min for soft glass and 20 for boro should be fine.
Yes. They're more appearance than viscosity, but white and light rose lose viscosity very quickly at working temperature compared to most other colors, for instance.
so if you turn for example to the left and the corner is very long you will break mechanism becouse one wheel will turn faster than the other it means if you turn one wheel in one direction and second wheel in another their speed must be the same , if speed would be difrent their will block each other
No, the entire mechanism spins. If you look at the mechanism when it’s not spinning, when you apply different forces the mechanism has one wheel spin backwards relative to another, but then when you let the whole thing spin you can see that that simply results in 2 different speeds, one “spinning backwards” simply translates to one spinning slower than the other when the entire mechanism itself is rotating.
I don't think my 3d prints are suitable for sale: I'm a hobbyist. You should look at shapeways.com or the like: they do very high quality prints for a reasonable price.
Also in this rzeppa joint, if you assume the shafts are not currently rotating, when you move the output shaft from one angle to another (relative to the input shaft), does this cause rotation in the input shaft like it would in a standard u-joint?
It doesn't. That is precisely the point of a constant velocity joint like this: the phase angle relationship between input and output is conserved across all joint angles. (This is one reason new front wheel drive cars have much less steering wheel yank than old jeeps and trucks.)
I'd seen other videos but they used 3d models of an actual torsen and while I saw that it worked, I couldn't figure out why. Your model helped me see how they actually work.
I will say: I am not sure casting is the best solution for end tanks. I'd be really tempted to make a wooden form and hammerform sheet aluminum over it. The reason I say that is because if there's any porosity at all in your cast, which when you're doing this with back yard equipment is hard to control, a thin section like a header tank may end up leaking through pinholes. You have to weld the tanks to the core anyway, right?
Excellent video, thank you for posting. Just about to install one of these myself and your video perfectly demonstrates and explains all the missing details in the BPNW video. Well done!
I'd say the most important thing is to MAKE SURE the 4 holes are Symmetrical to the locating pin . Or the bolts will NEVER line up I learned this the hard way. An extra 10 minutes getting it right Is time well spent
@@jeremyhank4595 make sure your 4 bolts are symmetrical to the locating knob or your bolts will be miss aligned to the differential... not by Much .. just enough to miss, You can't see down the holes either So do it on the bench I layed the spring upside down Put the bolts through. Then used a small bar across the 2 bolts and measured from the bar to the knob then did the outher side Adjust till they measure the same Then lock the pivot bolt LOL it took me a wail to figure it out A rush job always takes twice as long
Very interesting way to "regulate" voltage back then. Yep a modern sub 2 dollar dc-dc buck module would definitely fix that. I would use a LM2596 module.
I think the modern replacements still use a linear. I replaced this with a buck module, but don't remember which one, in a little stamped metal enclosure I made and bolted to the back of the dashboard.
I love using the GF. You should put a GF referral link on this video. On my GF videos I have had about 5 referrals, free money to spend in the GF shop, plus the person using the referral code gets a nice discount too!
