Instead, I drew reference lines on the mask based on the model instructions. After painting the circle, I lined up the star with my drawn reference lines.
After spending some time with Harper, I don't think she has any fear towards men. I think her initial reaction to me was just being scared over being transferred from her previous home and a long car ride and uncertainty over what was happening in the moment. She has met my Dad and Dina's dad with no problems at all.
G'day Rick. I wondered what Cameo cutter settings you used for the Tamiya masking sheets? I have a Cameo 4 and haven't tried it with the Tamiya sheets yet, but it looks good. Regarding alignment of the USAAF stars with the panel lines, use pen/pencil index lines at the top of the star arms on the circle surrounds to place them correctly. The Tamiya masking sheets should take pencil alignment marks better than Orafol vinyl. I hope this all makes sense.
I spray the colour of the model your painting first very lightly just to seal the edges then the white works every time and no block colours showing through. 😊👍
The whole process is not difficult, it just takes experience and patience. It's not some unreachable goal reserved for a select few elite humans few like playing in a symphony or a professional sports team, so don't think that just because you can't do it now, you won't ever be able to do it. You don't really even need to have very steady hands if you use enough masking tape 😀
The bit about first spraying the base coat over the mask to "seal" the edges against color bleed is an excellent one, and I haven't heard it elsewhere, so thank you!
You are a lot heavy with the white paint if you want gonna have it around center and light around the edges you would add that Is that white outer ring
I asked a very experienced machinist what the optimal cutting angle would be and he said 45 degrees. In retrospect, I think I misunderstood him. I believe he was referring to the cutting edge of the tool and not the angle of the tool itself. If I build another one, I will use a much smaller angle for the reasons you mentioned.
Thanks for the compliment on the tail checkers. A lot of work went into that. Probably 5-6 hours and several feet of tape, but it was an enjoyable experience. The checkered tail idea was borrowed from the markings on the P-47 Thunderbolts, hence the warning on the title screen. I don't build my models to be historically accurate - more of "what would look cool on this plane that will sit on a shelf in my basement and never be seen by anybody?"
I love this vid but…. I may have to stick with decals because i have no idea what you are talking about in the beginning of the vid . Something about programs?? Ugh.
The software for Silhouette Cameo doesn't support SVG files. Most of the vector based files on the internet are in SVG, so you would need to either find some way to convert those files to something the Silhouette software can work with, or pay for the upgrade to the Silhouette software to enable SVG support.
@@tomspettel3646 I've never used a Cricut, so I can't say. I wouldn't let the file formats be a deciding factor. You can use an online converter to convert .svg files to .dxf which the basic Silhouette software can use. cloudconvert.com/svg-to-dxf
I wrote them down as I was doing the experimental cuts, but I'm afraid I must have thrown that paper away and I never stored them as a user defined setting in the Studio software. Since then, I have done some stencils using vinyl transfer film (much cheaper than Tamiya Masking) and they work okay, but can bleed a bit under the edges due to the lower adhesion, so it would be a good idea to put down a clear coat to seal them before spraying the color. The settings I use for cutting transfer film (and Oracal 651 in general) are Autoblade, Depth 3, Force 10, Speed 5, and 1 pass. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I watched a video this evening where the artist was doing pretty much the same thing I did, but he went the extra mile and included his cutter settings in the comments. I saw that he also mentioned that he never uses pure white or black as they just don't look right, so it is nice to know I'm not the only person that feels that way. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ha7Iccb9ZYQ.html
My way to avoid your problem is to paint insignia (or whatever I want to paint using masks) first, and camo later. I case of P-40 I would prime the model firs, paint dark blue area where insignias should go first. Then I would put mask down to protect dark blue part of the roundel. Next step would be to paint white stripe. Once that is dry I would mask it, so painted insignia is protected. I would then paint overspray with thin layer of primer again and paint the camouflage. Once all is painted and masks are removed, you have nice insignias without any white borders. Masking this way is easier as well.
@@ricknelson6405 Didn't you used to sing that song "Garden Party" ? So here's thought Rick , make the fly cutter body so you cut a 15 degree Internal taper to center on the lathe with a 2" or more head diameter. Then hold it in a v block and indicate along that surface then cut the tool slot for a 1/4" shank tool to center offset so the carbide tip is on center. put 2 set screws in the thick side 3 screws if you can fit them. Do the same 180 degrees on the other side. You have to cut the 1/4 shank down so they are short enough. Then you set the tools by putting it in the mill and loosen both tools to register on a flat surface then tighten. Now you have a perfectly balanced fly cutter with 2 tips.
I am a complete beginner when it comes to machining, but I'd love to learn as much as I can just for personal use. I've never had any training or job experience. I picked up the ubiquitous chinese mini lathe and a benchtop mill and am finding my way from watching videos from experts like This Old Tony, BlondieHacks, and ABOM. I'm glad you enjoyed the video!
@@ricknelson6405 On this how come you used such a steep angle 45deg for the tool/cutter? Blondihacks made one that was far more typical at about 15deg. Some I have seen are almost flat.
@@tonywilson4713 I don't have a good answer for that. When I was in the planning stages, I asked an experienced machinist what angle to go with and he said 45 so that's what I went with. A lower angle would give a wider cut, but maybe the 45 gives a better cut. I don't know. I'm just a beginner with a milling machine and a cheap mini lathe and not somebody that you should be getting advice from.
@@ricknelson6405 Yeah, I noted that from the video. I was just wondering why. Are you going to be doing any more videos about your projects? Don't be afraid to repeat projects that others do. None of the hobbyists have the same machinery or experience and each one has to ends with a solutions to suit. Nobody expects any of them to do work like Joe Pie, Stefan G or Robin Renzetti. All those variations and solutions keep adding to the overall knowledge base. Even the mistakes people make add to the knowledge base. Look at Blondihacks she doesn't hide her failures and a few others are following suit.
@@tonywilson4713 I guess I could leave it to the pros to make videos teaching how to machine parts and I'll make the videos on how not to machine parts. Let other people learn from my mistakes. I don't use the machining tools very often, so the videos would be few and far between.
The method I've settled on is to paint the national markings over my primer layer, carefully cover them with an overlay stencil to protect the finished marking, then paint the rest of the the paint scheme. I've managed to avoid the halo effect using this method, although it does require you to cut the additional cover stencil. In cases where I want the underlying camo scheme to ghost through (to replicate markings hastily applied in the field) I place the stencil, apply a clear coat to seal the edges, then paint the markings to the desired opacity. You need to have more than one tool in your toolbox.
It is far better to paint the white background at the very beginning, then the camo scheme masked with a full circle, and finally the navy blue star. White tends to be very thick if required to be truly opaque on any dark colour. Nice tutorial anyway!
In the beginning, I mentioned German insignia which makes no sense in context. The reason is that I was cutting decals for both a P-40 and a BF-109 at the same time and planned on including both in the video, but ended up editing out all of the parts of cutting the German aircraft crosses (Balkenkreuz) to cut down the length of the video as it would be redundant.
In editing the video, there were a couple close calls. I'm not going to lie and say I've never sloshed paint out of the top of the cup, but it has never wrecked a model. It would be better to put the cap on the cup, but it is easier to cross my fingers.
I’m not sure about starting with a darker color first...a tip for not getting the white halo is this...once you have the white mask positioned, lay a ring of rolled tackit around the edge. Get it close to the border of the original circle mask. This will keep the border of the white a bit fuzzy...this technique is essentially the same the people use when they want softer edges in their camo. So, now you have a white background with a soft edge that doesn’t go quite to the edge of the mask. Put down your star mask and paint the blue...you shouldn’t have the white halo. The process is a bit more involved but it will eliminate the white edge and it allows me to keep from painting a light color over a dark one...I always try to move from lighter to darker colors.
That's a very interesting concept. I don't like painting lights over darks because you have to lay it on so thick and this sounds like a great method to avoid that. The soft edges would only be at the very tips of the star points, so not very visible. Thanks much!
Do you make your own graphics for the mottle templates or download them? I'd love to find some available for download (also splinter and digital camo).
Rick Nelson I found a pattern with good resolution on line. Then i used the trace feature in the silhouette software and away you go. Camo patterns should be easy as well. I have never tried this but you could just scan the camo pattern from the painting guide that came with the model then import to silhouette software.
I purchased my first set of Masks form a guy on Large Scale Models forum. The first thing he said when instructing me on how to use them was. Never do White first. Always do the base color on the mask (Blue for the Insignia.) Then Align the white mask and paint it. Otherwise you always get that Halo effect. YOur painting method and colors look perfect!
The terms I've used when describing this method to others, are "positive" and "negative". The "positive" mask would be the star Rick used, while the negative would be like the circle. I would have painted the blue negative first and then the white star also would have been a negative (laid over top of the blue). Hope that makes sense to anyone who reads this, lol.
I wrote them down as I was doing the experimental cuts, but I'm afraid I must have thrown that paper away and I never stored them as a user defined setting in the Studio software. Since then, I have done some stencils using vinyl transfer film (much cheaper than Tamiya Masking) and they work okay, but can bleed a bit under the edges due to the lower adhesion, so it would be a good idea to put down a clear coat to seal them before spraying the color. The settings I use for cutting transfer film (and Oracal 651 in general) are Autoblade, Depth 3, Force 10, Speed 5, and 1 pass. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
I watched a video this evening where the artist was doing pretty much the same thing I did, but he went the extra mile and included his cutter settings in the comments. I saw that he also mentioned that he never uses pure white or black as they just don't look right, so it is nice to know I'm not the only person that feels that way. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ha7Iccb9ZYQ.html
