I am an old motorcycle mechanic who has now reached that part of his life that means I can spend time and energy doing things for fun, rather than trying to earn money to pay bills and all the other things that are life.
I am passionately interested in the first and second world wars. I love going to the places and experiencing the events that happened there. We have been to the Somme and Normandy amongst others, and really enjoyed it. We are going to go to Arnham, and the dams raided by the dam busters. We are hoping to go there this year, and I am hoping to make a film of the event.
The plan is to enjoy what is there to be seen, but also to enjoy the ride and the companionship of my friends.
Being able to have a laugh, is also very important. Come along with us and enjoy the time.
Thank you for your help for the steering. I found out it was the speedometer attached to the brake line. I have encountered another problem, my final drive is leaking from the breedercap, any advice. Thank you for your help.
Yes I have seen that quite a few times. A real pain. What I normally do is drain the unit and then refill and make sure you don't overfill it even a small amount. I don't know why it does it but that normally cures it. Let me know how you get on.
I had this issue with my K100LT, if you changed the battery then this would be an issue. Slightly differing in approach but the local BMW garage had the same spiel.
Yes, all manufacturers have spent ages trying to make systems which we can't 'adjust' meaning we have to go to them and give them vast amounts of cash for them to do a 'secret' trick. Nowadays they sell you a machine, then after a trail period, they delete all the 'bells and whistles' unless you PAY them a subscription!!!! Thieves. Just one reason why I would never buy a new machine, (car or bike)
Just test-rode one yesterday .. a friend is willing to let it go for the right price. But the ergos seemed set up for someone with shorter legs. Wondering how much that can be fixed, with taller seat, lowered pegs, some bar risers and a different angle to the handgrips?
Hi, yes there are quite a few different ways to 'adjust' the bike to suit individual riders. There are lowered footrest kits available, and the seat has three different height settings. You can also increase the 'height' by fitting the 'comfort' seat too. that works wonders I have had a couple of them. they are a must have for me if you are doing tours. With the bars you can fit the GS upper 'triple' and then fit any bar set up that you want. Plenty of kit available for these bikes.
This video has been really great to find. You explain everything so well. I'm going to do this job tomorrow, the chain adjuster on mine appears to be seized. I got a loan of a no 46mm the day before yesterday but then had to go to the shop today for a converter 3/4 to half inch. As it turned out, the 46mm nut on mine wasnt tight at all and only for it was staked i could have almost undone it by hand ! The same couldnt be said for the no 36 axle nut on the far side, it was violently tight and resisted to the bitter end . Anyway thanks again. I must look at your other videos
Hi, thanks for the nice comments. I am glad you found it helpful. One of the things that make the bearing carrier hard to move is when people don't use the correct tool for adjusting the chain. They use a 'chisel' to tap the carrier round to adjust the chain. This allows the 'toothed' section of the carrier to become burred, and as a result it won't move very easily. Once removed, de-burr the teeth of the carrier and use the correct tool (C spanner). It isn't the preferred tool. IT IS the MUST HAVE tool. Good luck with your job, and don't hesitate to ask me if you have any other problems.
Thanks very much for the reply and advice. I got delayed the other day so I'm doing this job tomorrow . I was just running through your video again when I saw your reply. I'm actually looking forward to doing this job now. That's interesting about the wheel being difficult ....I wouldnt have expected that. Regards
Damn that was very informative ! I'm in the process to clean mine after buying the same motorcycle. One main jet was in 130 and the other 140, all the oil air mixture screen were badly tunned. I found the pdf version of the same service manuakl as yours but it help so much to have someone with great experience showing all the part and explaining why and how it should work. Thank you so much :)
Glad you liked it. How did you get on with your police model? I once got an 'army' bike that was fitted with a lot of the police systems. Very interesting the amount of extra wiring that was used but quite easy to revert it back to standard. Let me know how you get on if you buy it.
Thanks for the video, I tried this before (gonna do it again) but didn't work for me last time. Does that mean that there is something wrong mechanically with my ABS? Started for me when I disconnected the front sensor to replace the front forks.
This is the way we used to re set the ABS after doing any work that was necessary, or if it went AWAL. Remember to leave the ignition on when you release the switch and earth connection. It should go straight back to normal (unless there is a problem with the ABS) I have never worked on a bike that this didn't work on, as it is the BMW way (they used a switch which did the same thing) If it was working OK before you disconnected the front sensor, or unless you broke the sensor, it should work.
@@RestorationBiker Thanks for the reply. Have managed to get the first one out, so now I can see its exact make up. Can you remember if when you looked down the jet, it looks like it is sleeved 🤔, I suppose it could be just corrosion etc, but looks a tiny orifice.
@@martinowl Hi, yes I normally renew pilot jets because the orifice is so small, that it is sometimes very hard to clear them. Because (normally) they are very cheap (about £4 each) But, You can't get these ones as they are now 'unavailable' So, you have to remove them, and fully clear them. Take your time, and make sure you get them very clear.
Hi, I watched the video again, because it was a long time ago and I couldn't remember leaving it out. It does look in the beginning that the valve has been left out. But it is in the bit that you can see which would make you think the valve was out was a balance weight that was still stuck on the rim. It had me fooled too until I saw the valve as I was fitting the tyre. Thanks for watching, hope it helps you.
Hello, found you by looking for BMW F650 info as a bike fo beginner rider - one of your other videos. Thanks for the info shown and explained. Pretty understandable and usefull. +1 subscriber of the channel.
Thank you so much. Straight to the point. No nonsense in order to amuse the attention impaired. New owner old bike. I'm coming to understand the BMW addiction. They are not Japanese perfection by any means; but, I'm in love with this thing. You know your in love when you find foibles charming!
Brilliant many thanks for your comments. Glad it helped you. These BMW bikes are an addiction. Once you have been exposed to them it is hard to look elsewhere
Good grief, word to the wise. First, once I got over the intimidating part of removing the swing arm, it really wasn't that bad. Once the wheel and brakes are off it's mostly cosmetic stuff. I'd say an hour or two would do for the whole job depending on your level of experience with automotive/motorcycle repair. (I'm an automotive teacher with way too much experience.) Before I installed my $15 eBay part I made sure the switch lit all of the gear positions by manually cycling the switch, but I forgot to verify it on the bike, so I think I indexed in improperly when lining it up to fit. (Turned it clockwise or counterclockwise when it should have been turned the opposite direction. So, here I go again. Maybe I'll time it this time around and update this post.
Wow, what a nightmare. You've done the job, only to find that you have got to take it all apart again!!! Hopefully all should be ok once you have done it again. Let me know how you get on.
I always put bearings in the freezer for a few hours before fitting them. By rights this should make them shrink a little and make them easier to fit. Keep them in the plastic bag so they don’t get ice on them, obviously.
Hi, yes I see what you mean, it does look as if they have been put in the wrong way. They haven't been put in the wrong way, the middle of the piston has a thrust washer fitted at the pad side of the piston. They are in the correct way, I can assure you. Let me know if you get any problems.
I test rode one of those at a motorcycle event. I really liked it but I felt it needed more power so I stuck with my set up for sport touring ZX11D. I didn't expect the RT to have ZX11D level power just a bit more than it had.
Yes, I know what you mean. With the RT that I had for 7 years, I fitted a RS gearbox, (M93) and changed the rear diff. These mods gave it so much more mid range power. My mate had the same bike and mine used to leave him standing.
Yes, once the piston has moved a small amount it closes off the large hole. This hole is how fluid enters the system once the lever is released. Hope this helps, good question.
@@RestorationBiker thank you . I'm currently working on a xj900 diversion and have been having issues with pressure loss on the front brakes after doing a full rebuild of the callipers and upgrade from rubber lines to braided . my original master cylinder was far to gone to be saved and bought a new one and had noticed that the silver piston that can be seen through the lager hole wasn't fully sealing off the hole when i released the leaver and wondered if that could be the issue or not
I recently rebuild mine too. it is a '92 EU model with only 14K miles on it. Changed and repaired everything on it. It is factory new now. Love this bike. 😍
@@RestorationBiker Yes great bike! Bought it 4 years ago for like 300 euros. Spend almost 2K on it while restoring here in the NL , but now it is priceless to me. instant start. pure joy. Does not go fast or high HP if i want that ill get on my other 2 bikes 😇😇
Excellent, clear and informative video, thanks. Looking at a 97 F650ST thats been garaged unused since 2015. Not running though, (no battery and old fuel) so it's cheap but hard to test for any of these main flaws. Just go on overall condition? Is corrosion an issue?
Hi, Thanks for the nice comments. Yes, if it is a non runner then you have to work on the understanding that it could have any of the common faults and maybe a few more. But, if it is cheap enough then that will allow you to attend to the problems IF they are there. Corrosion isn't a common fault with these bikes but obviously, it CAN have suffered if it has been left outside or something like that. If you buy it then get a battery (even a jump start may help) so that you can get it turning over, Then spray 'easy start '(ether) into the carbs to see if you get a response (firing) Then if you do, you know you can invest in a new battery, and perhaps totally strip and clean the carbs. If it doesn't fire at all, or won't turn over (sprag clutch) Then you know where your first work must be. Sounds good fun. Let me know how you get on.
Hi, I have tried loads of different types of engine cleaner. The one I always use now is Carplan engine cleaner. It isn't cheap about £28 a gallon. But it works superbly.
It took a long time to find someone who could supply the right diaphragms for these carbs. I use a company on the internet who supply diaphragms for loads of different carbs. I sent them pictures with dimensions etc from the carbs I was rebuilding. They had a good research and finally found the diaphragms that I needed. I can't remember their name but I will have a look for the receipt and let you know.
Hi, that's a good question, not very easy to answer though. The paint on these heads is very difficult to remove. It does flake and peel, but you can remove the flaking bits, but you won't get the good paint off. The only way is to get it blasted, or remove as much as you can then, rub the rest down to get the best surface for a re-paint. Not easy, you can make it look ok but it is a long job.
@@RestorationBiker Thanks for the reply. I have just contacted motorworks for a quote on a replacement head. The paint on them is almost as tough as the magnesium alloy they are made of. The bike is a beautiful piece of engineering shame they designed them to dissolve in the rain.
Well done, I bet that was a great feeling getting your old bike back. I saw one of my old bikes up for sale a few years ago, and I didn't buy it even though my wife urged me to do so. I really wish I had because I had done so much work to it.
Merci pour la vidéo. Aujourd'hui est-ce intéressant d'acheter ce genre de motos qui a 25 ou 30 ans ? Si oui, quel est le prix d'achat d'une telle machine ? Pour l'entretien et la maintenance trouve-t-on encore des pièces détachées ? Ce type de moto est-il fiable ? merci
Bon jour mon ami. These bikes are superb. You can still get all of the parts for these easily. They are quite cheap to buy and maintain. They ride brilliantly, I love them. Cost for one at the moment in England (may be different in France) is about £1500 - £2000 for a nice one in good condition, about 1995-99. And, yes they are brilliantly reliable. Let me know if you need any help or info
