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When I was a kid I met George in Del Mar I was walking to beach with my new G&S knee board I knew who he was from pictures in Surfer magazine. He was so cool. I was a little surf rat he wanted to check the board out I was so stoked!
I had a good conversation with George one day.. just bumped into him and we just talked about things in general and photography using a motion picture camera…I spoke to his mother once.. she was a friend of a friend… George was in OZ by then… I told her what a legend George was… She appreciated that… Old SB… long gone now… too many Mutts..;
You were mentioning uplifting the community and the environment. I just want to add that all you surfers need to behave once you get out into the water as well. Are we really intertidal creatures fighting to the death over that last little morsel of detritus???
Wish there were more films of him surfing other breaks besides PB Point. I surfed with Skip for many years. He was always a gentleman. I was one of the original owners of the first Frye model s. He shaped all my boards and when I saw him at Sunset Cliffs one winter afternoon I asked if he could make me a board for my trip to the north shore of in December. He had three guns with him and said he was testing them for the upcoming world contest and would give the one he wasn’t going to take. It was fantastic in 15 ft Sunset and pipeline.
To those disparaging these mats. You don’t have a clue. The old mats were pumped up stiff. I even remember a kid who could ride them standing up. These new mats are soft. I used to ride this giant pillow case called an airbag. Those were developed in the 40s. After World War II. I could fly on that airbag at big Makapu’u. I would takeoff outside in the middle of the bay, as the wave would die out before it reforms again on the inside, I would be spinning, and I would fly through that area until I would drop down another face on the reform. I’m now trying to learn to ride one of these new soft mats. And it is not easy at all. It’s more like riding the old school pear shaped plywood Paipo boards that were popular in the 50s and 60s. Before boogie boards were invented. And leashes. When you really needed to know how to swim to surf.
Surf mats we rode as kids in the 60's in Redondo Beach, CA were made of canvas and they inflated them to rock hard water craft ! Interesting to see how little air these mats need to perform so well.
sad to say i was on the same surfboard team with this guy and spent a week with him in margaret river when he was at the peak of his powers. as a young aspiring pro-am surfer i looked up to herro so much. i hope he will be okay. much love to him.
can you make something like this to fit existing U holders that I already have 2 pairs of from previous bike racks where the clamp went with the bike??!! Anyone have suggestions of how to do that?
@4:01 This cat has got a really early version of a GoPro strapped to his helmet and that really cool period correct peace symbol hand with the American flag on it. I used to have a patch like that I'm one of my old t-shirts that got stolen from me at Woodstock 94 along with a couple of other items.