I saw this video yesterday and tried to look for the vinyl trim used to hold down the plastic but didn’t have any luck.can anyone assist me what it is and when I can find it? I’ve used firing strips before and didn’t care for them.
Sorry, I do not understand the question. There is a reservoir (tub) at the base of the tower. The tub has several galllons of mixed water and nutrients. The small DC pump pumps the water/nutrient solution to the top of the tower; gravity allows the water to flow down inside the tower (over the plant roots), back to the tub...and the process repeats. There is no "dirt"; for a growing medium I used a mixture of Perlite and Vermiculite. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching!
Even with an RCD unit in the mains power line, I still use 12volt DC pumps etc. water and 220 Volts are always a risky business. Thank you for sharing your towers and tips, I will keep my plant spacing less than I had in mind. Greetings from Tasmania Australia 👍😁🇦🇺🦘
Good presentation. Good job. We have a group of green houses. All basically high tunnel of poly tubing or high panel projects. Good start. Good luck. Dandahermit
About heat, the 2 best ideas, any size trash can w a fish tank heater inside and, a counter top water distiller has a fan & gives water! About greens, try Swiss Chard!!! It will grow thru the snow outside! Start a big row in summer or fall and grow thru winter! Great job!
48” thanksgiving week 2019 i’ve been in New Hampshire for 40 years right about the same northern exposure as you but I’ve been told that if you go inside but with the back of a push broom whack the panels the snow will slide right off? We’re going to build one probably next week
That is probably true. Thing is, the weather does things we don't plan for. Last year I got 30+ inches of snow plus high winds OVERNIGHT. If the greenhouse had no support, it would have collapsed like several others did nearby me. Cheap insurance so I don't have to even think about how much snow comes down. Also, if you get freezing rain that changes over to snow, it will not shed snow no matter how much you "whack" it. Building it once was fun. Cleaning up a mess, then building it a second time doesn't appeal to me. Good luck.
LOL...I doubt it is the best, but thank you for the nice comment. Hard to believe it has been eight years! It is still standing with no issues. The 30-inches of snow I had in one storm late last year had no effect! Regards...JT
Good day...thanks for watching! I am unsure exactly what you are asking... The 12-volt pump runs continuously (24/7). The nutrient solution (in the tote) is pumped to the top of the tower. Once inside the tower, the solution drains down and out the bottom of the tower then back to the tote (gravity); the process repeats. The 12-volt pumps are quiet and are economical to operate. The pumps have a maximum lift of about 7-feet (200 cm). Hope that helped. Regards!
Loved your video. Great greenhouse. I'm in the South and don't have the snow. Great tips. Liked the vinyl trim technique. I also watch the Texas Prepper. Thanks for your tips.👍👍👍
Hi thanks for the video. I have an analog oven clock buzzing like yours was. What was the name of the oil and the sealant you used? Was it Permatech or Permatex?
In Northern Hemisphere longest side should always be the South side ! In my area windchill come from the west side most of the time so window is placed there. Door on the east side open out from the south to block out cold north winter wind plus insulated with bubble wrap north and west sides to to ceiling ! Earthen mound around the base of Greenhouse with tent pegs
Great video! This may be below your level of expertise but I need help finding a fuse in my identical mower. I just received a used Huskee 4200 but when my brother-in-law had the battery charged, the guy hooked it up backwards! It was working fine until that happened. Now, no click at all when I turn the key. I added brand new fully charged battery, and have tried jumping it off also, with no success. I can't find the dang fuse the wiring diagrams say is in there. Do you have any info on how to find it?
Sorry, I did not see this until today. I no longer have the tractor near me, but follow the red wire from battery+ to the starter solenoid post then continue to follow that wire to the fuse (20 Amp). Hope this helps...sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I might see the tractor today; will check for location. www.partstree.com/parts/mtd/mowers-lawn-garden-tractor/13w2775s031-lt4200-huskee-lawn-tractor-2013/electrical-schematic/
Nice! Good ideas, which complement the TexasPrepper hoop garden design. First, I like the cattle panel idea. I live in Austin, TX, and know the PVC pipe won't stand up to the TX sun--I may not use the greenhouse much in the summer, but it will still take a beating from the sun! If I DO use it, I might consider insulating, it, to keep some of my plants COOLER! The bubble wrap idea sounds clever--also, covering part of the greenhouse to shade it and using windows for ventilation might work. . We went through a long hot dry spell last summer, with no rain and temps greater than !00 F every day for a few weeks. The leaves of some of my plants--even the top of a young maple tree--were fried brown! Maybe with a portable solar electric system I already have, I can use it to do some minimal cooling--just dropping the temp by 10 degrees could help.I also like the door swinging out, so I have more useable space inside, and the extra wood braces, and use of the vinyl instead of wood furring strips. We get some winds with up to 50 mph gusts at times, & I'd rather have the extra strength, and not worry about having to re-build, or, to recover the plastic. The use of cattle fencing on the ends means more money & more work. It might be over-built for some folks, but I like it. I also have dogs--and one especially inventive puppy! I need to discourage them from thinking they can dismantle any part of the greenhouse! For my climate, the black pool liner would cause problems with mold, but I can see why you're using it in NY. I've lived in northern climates, and it is a whole different situation, for sure! I bought some used Mexican talavera tile, (a red, low-fire clay tile) and plan to put that on the ground to have something to walk on. I'll probably put down pea gravel first. Nobody likes mucking around in wet mud! I'm impressed with your ingenuity, with the inside extra insulated container & the use of the BBQ temperature probe, and also, the underground heater. Clearly, you've put a lot of time & thought into your project. Check out the programs, like one in Nebraska, using geothermal heating & cooling. I live in the city, and also our soil is mostly clay & rock, so the cost for me to do something like that--which entails digging about 300 feet of 8 foot deep tunnel--would be cost prohibitive, but geothermal energy is essentially free, once installed, and is far too often overlooked. Builders putting in new subdivisions could install it, cutting down heating & cooling costs significantly anywhere it is used. I've heard that in Iceland, everyone has access to geothermal heat, taking advantage of some of their natural hot springs. Thanks for sharing your ideas. I've made notes, and will try to learn from your example, and save myself some time & unnecessary hassle. I'm shorter, and don't think I'm up to gardening to the degree that I'll need as much space, so I'm thinking two lengths of cattle fence for the top, and part of one more, to use for the ends, should work for me. Now I have a head-start, and I expect I will avoid many of the pitfalls I could have run into! I have plenty of extra lumber from previous projects, so mostly, I will just need the cattle fencing, 6 mm plastic, vinyl strips, some hardware and screws, and a working staple gun. I like to use either tape, or thin furring strips, in most places that need to be stapled, to prevent the plastic.from ripping. I might cut plywood for the north-west end of the tunnel--my house is skewed so that it faces south-east. So, from watching some other videos, one side --and it can be an end, depending on how you orient your greenhouse--doesn't really get any heat from the sun, and would benefit more from insulation (and in some climates, a reflective surface) rather than as a light & heat absorbing area. As my greenhouse won't be very large, it might be good to make that an end, which will help to stabilize the shape of the hoop, and additionally, minimize issues with the polymer plastic on that end....We'll see!
@@Kntryhart Cool, well according to chemistry we don't put o² in water, that's a myth. All we can do is to remove the excessive co² from it, and the culture you are planting needs a minimum of co² in the water which can be achived by air stones or venturi. I'll give you a link to build a mini venturi to help remove the co² from the water and you'll notice that even the taste and size of strawberry will increase. ru-vid.com?search_query=venturi+aquaponics See ya,
I REALLY like your set up! Very we'l done! Looks quite sturdy with practical well thought out design! I'm thinking the panels on door & end walls will help support the plastic in the wind as well. More I'm really thinking of redoing the my grow panels! I have 2 or 3 panels didn't use yet! Thanks SO much for sharing!
Hi, I 've looked up many designs, yours looks the smartest most efficient one i've seen. I am wondering if you could help me and provide me with some details.. - What type of material if the main pole/pipe that carries the entire structure.. - What are the dimensions for it, what is the name of it, how much does it cost.. - Where did you get it from.. if you have any guidance and/or measurements sheet on the entire design it would be a great thing. Last but not least, thank you for taking the time to share this, and i am sorry to hear that you had to give up on this because of the flies..
Kntryhart Thank you so much for getting back to me, and for taking the time to update the info. I am sorry for the late reply, I thought I had done this reply previously, but I guess I got interrupted and never finished it at the time. Keep posting.. I enjoy your watching your materials, thank you once again.
I like how you built the bracing for the snow load. As for your soil warmer experiment, have you given any thought to using some solar panels. That could cut your electric bill some.
Unfortunately, I don't do much gardening anymore. Father time gets us all. Also, the cost to grow veggies for one person makes it quite impractical and expensive. The greenhouse now is used mainly for storage. Thanks for watching!
my whole cucumber garden is gone.they killed it.I spray neem oil soap water spray many time but didn't work.so I'm looking for some thing for next year.let see what works for next year.thanks for your information.I subscribed.come see my channel.
No longer using them. A new type of fruit fly has made it impossible to keep the fruit from getting devoured. If you would like the towers (free of charge) you can have them. Zip is 13778 (no shipping).
Kntryhart oh darn!!! I wish I have the means to go there. I will glady pay you back for the materials. my hands are frail and I can't do any drilling or sawing. my husband circular saw is dead and since I don't drive (I'm a stranded Asian living in Missouri), I can't go anywhere unless I have a driver. my problem when it comes to strawberries are either slugs or birds. I was advised this year to plant strawberries in hanging baskets and I came across Garden Answer who made strawberry towers out of galvanized tubes. it gets really HOT in Missouri during summer months. i'm afraid to use galvanized tubes. I might end up cooking the strawberry plants.
The first year, the towers worked great. The second year, I had problems toward the end of the year with fruit flies. The third year I lost almost all the strawberries to the fruit flies. The galvanized tubes do not appeal to me due to lead leaching out of the plating. www.bigberkeywaterfilters.com/blog/lead/galvanized-steel-pipes-leach-lead-into-drinking-water/ Regards...
@@Kntryhart Just for the record, galvanized pipe after 1960 does not contain lead. The zinc used is pure. It does however trap lead in it's corrosion, and in cities that still have lead service lines that can be a minor issue. Most lead lines have been around so long they have a coating inside that traps the lead, unless a ph change (Flint, MI) corrodes the coating. Your link is from a site selling something, and omits these facts.
A hose barb and a thin black water line. Example: www.coleparmer.com/i/cole-parmer-threaded-adapter-male-nylon-1-4-x-3-16-pack-of-10-31702-06/3170206?PubID=UX&persist=true&ip=no&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkpfWBRDZARIsAAfeXaqNvSY4OzV5z0HTClBmAieAoPIsGCdX-20vAVKWSTvvfpDOsgs-mA0aAv-MEALw_wcB Example: www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=58033&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkpfWBRDZARIsAAfeXaqviLXdv8R1NVmcQ6xKq7U-sPW9i_OqQjrBoefUwVEwGIvEgK_cL80aAkf3EALw_wcB
