Daddy from Kaydyn and Daddy sharing some of his ideas and viewpoints. This is content more for the adults in the household. The vision of this channel is to help people do things around the house and most importantly speak to the "Men" of the house who do things like mechanical work on the cars, fix the garbage disposal, provide for the family, etc. I am not trying to make any political statements. I simply want to use my knowledge and experiences to reach a wider audience in the hopes of being something of a mentor. Mentorship is something I think we have lost for the most part, and I want to see it make a comeback. This channel is my way of being the change I want to see in the world.
Thank you for these tutorials. I've built 1 board so far and have 2 to go. I flashed it with the 2.0 scheme. I tried the 2.5 later and that didn't work. I'm thinking it's because I use the esp8266 chip and the 2.5 boards don't seem to use that chip. I also didn't change the D1 port. I don't use Home Assistant, but I do have OpenHab installed and have quite a few smart items controlled, and OpenHab recently mad a binding available to connect to ESPHome items using the native API. I also installed the ESPHome python project on a raspberry pi 4. It has the same dashboard interface to access the ESPHome device yaml. That interface looks like the one you show in Home Assistant. This was a fun project and I'm glad to get rid of MyQ.
Thank you for sharing your setup!! Hopefully that helps others who aren’t using Home Assistant but want to get away from MyQ. I will do some research on your setup myself so I can present it to others.
I can only recommend to use the specs provided by Nissan. There are different specs for different sets of bolts and they must be done in a specific order. There are a number of forums online which provide some hood information. I can’t recommend any as I have not had time to fully vet them for accuracy.
Pull up on the tan plastic piece with your finger and thumb and then squeeze in on the center tan piece you just pulled up and that should release the catch and you can remove the harness
It is theoretically possible, I think. I don’t really know but I think you would have to fork the ratgdo github and adjust the python programming to accommodate a second door and then adjust the yaml code in ESPHome to point to the pinout you choose for the second door as well as your GitHub repository of the forked ratgdo. As for the circuit board: If you wanted to add the second door on the same circuit as the first door while utilizing a different pin a couple diodes would have to be added between the pinouts in the esp8266 and the transistors and then the proper circuitry would have to be soldered in or created on a pcb board. So I think it is doable, but I truly don’t know for sure. I haven’t looked into that as I haven’t needed it. That is an excellent thought though!!
Hello...I think I have made these correctly. When I connect them to my GDO Liftmaster with yellow learn button...the obstruction sensors go dark. I assume red wire to red terminal, white ground to black terminal, and black data to one of the two remaining white terms. Flashed with 2.0 and 2.5 no luck. ESPHome sees and communicates. Just no GD movement. Any ideas?
The way I made mine is the red wire to red (the input into one side (drain) of one transistor and also into the ground (center) of the other transistor). The black wire goes to black which is wired through a resistor to pin 7 on the esp8266. The white wire goes to white and is the ground. The black wire on the GDO is the data from your obstruction sensors and needs to go through a resistor to pin 7 with another resistor between pin 7 and the first resistor returning to ground.
What I don't understand is why the obstruction sensors go off? The Paul Wieland RATGDO does not do this. There appears to be extra chips on the board purchased from him. Wondering if yours doesn't have all the needed chips?
In my case my phone was all I had while working on the vehicle and the best way to hold the phone so I could sit precariously in the engine compartment was to hold it vertically. To keep the continuity of the video I recorded the video’s entirety vertically.
Hi can you post the automation or script behind the up/down toggle button? My opener is exposed HomeKit so I put in an if state=open, then close, else open. It works fine but I want to do the same directly in HA.. any guidance would be appreciated
I am using ESPHome inside HA and haven’t done any scripting for the board. I have only edited the yaml file in ESPHome. I have not tried to integrate it through Homekit. You might reach out to the Home Assistant community on Discord. I will try to do some searching as well.
Thanks for responding back. I found it. I have to use the cover.toggle call service and then pass at the entity name. I was just trying the entity name or device with wish then toggle method but that's not valid. Thanks again
It knows based on the reed switch I installed on the door. It knows the state of the switch and therefore the state of the door. That gets passed through to Home Assistant
So I followed this video and replaced my starter flawlessly. Very well done video. I just have a question about "This little guy" at 3:14. I know that's the ground wire and when I was taking it out the first time, I broke off a little bit of the clip, it still goes in but easy to pull out. Anyway, replaced my starter, drove for two days, dead again. Noticed "That little guy" was already out when I started investigating. Is that actually important for the ground wire to function or is it just there to help hold it in place and offers no real value?
That clip shouldn’t be important for the ground wire to function if your ground wire is in good shape and where it connects to the battery and Car are good connections. I have had to replace the entire fuse block that attaches to the top of the battery once already. You may check that setup to see if it is in need of repair or replacement. Also make sure you don’t have any corrosion in your battery terminals, relays, or wires at the starter.
Hello, I stucked on Installation Failed. "Failed to initialize. Try resetting your device or holding the BOOT button while clicking INSTALL". Where the hack is the boot button on the v2.5i board? Why it does not install and erase the firmware?
Are you asking about the RATGDO 2.5i board? If so, I have nothing to do with that project and can’t be of any assistance on troubleshooting their product. From what I have seen at a quick glance they have an integrated esp8266 chip on that board and I don’t know if they have a boot button built in. You may have to ground a particular pin, but I don’t know exactly which pin that is. It might be labeled as RST, but you will have to confirm with the RATGDO group to ensure you do it correctly
I don’t recall off the top of my head but it looks to be around an 11mm. That should be a good starting point to put it on the bolt and see if it works and adjust the size accordingly
Is there documentation on how to do this with Tasmota? I use that for most other things and would love to flash my device with that instead. But not sure how to configure the module params for this setup.
The drain is the left side of each mosfet, correct. That is how they are set up. The red wire feeds into the Drain (left) on one transistor and the Ground(center) on the other with the Source(right) to ground on both and the Ground(center) inputs from D1 to one transistor and the Drain(left) output from the other transistor to D2.
@@thedaddyshow01 makes sense, at around the 18:00 min mark in the video you say the drain is the right side post. I got a bit confused by that, maybe add something so others don't get tripped up by it. Great video otherwise! thanks
The substitutions allow you to dictate what each pinout will do. It also allows you to further define your wifi and/or api information. However, if the default setup is working for you with no undesired performance then that will work.
That is absolutely true!! I’ve been messing with Home Assistant for a little over a year and I have learned so much!! That’s what makes it fun for me. It would be boring if there were no opportunities to learn. I think that’s what a lot of the younger generation is missing these days. Sometimes frustration is what makes the successful outcome more satisfying
It looks like you are using mqtt or tasmota on the shelly1 device. I tried mqtt a few years ago and was disappointed with the stability. It also takes a lot of steps to setup. Now, all my Shelly devices are auto detected by “Shelly for hass” integration. I find this to be stable and no issues at all. And it means I don’t have to flash anything as I’m using the vendor firmware. It’s not clear to me what benefit there can be for other firmware since the original is working perfectly for me. And I’ve got a lot of devices so quick setup is important.
There are a few things that can be added to the yaml to add additional support for more states. Your current design only has open and closed and these tie directly into the reed switch states. On my own design I implemented opening and closing states. These are derived by creating a moving binary sensor that goes true when button pressed and when timer expires goes to not moving. Then the states transition a few ways- when moving starts and was open becomes closing. When moving starts and was closed becomes opening. When timer expires the state becomes whatever the reed switch says. Now I can get a alert when fail to close because that’s simply a state change from closing to opened. Likewise I get alert for fail to open.
@@thedaddyshow01 when done correctly the icons automatically update for all 5 states. You can go from seeing the icon for a closed door to the up arrow icon indicating movement followed by an icon for an open door. I really like being able to alert on fail to close because I can just drive away without looking and if it fails to close I get alerts. The extra states allow for more intelligence in the automations.
I honestly don’t know. If the craftsman uses the same logic in their board then it theoretically should but I truly don’t know. I’ll do some research and let you know what I find.
The craftsman purple button does not use encrypted signal between the wall push button and the opener. Therefore you just need to short the wires to activate the motor. This ratgdo has some support for that style device but it’s not the primary target audience.
You would benefit, in part, then from my other myQ workaround video using a shelly1 relay. You just wont need to solder inside the wall-mounted button and can just attach everything at the opener it sounds like. myQ Workaround | Garage door openner | Shelly 1 | Home Assistant ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H3tFiPtltbM.html
Where did you sit and put your feet in the engine compartment. I am 6'2" and 265. I don't know where to set my feet down to avoid damaging cables, hoses, connectors, etc...
Is this use the same firmware as the official "ratgdo" website purchase from Paul Wieland? Is this expose same number of entities on the ESPHome? IS this the same software? Do you have future software update support?
I think it took me between 1 and 2 hours. I want to say 1 hour, but since I was recording I really didn’t pay attention to the time and I don’t recall how long it took. It wasn’t too long though
What does the software side of this process look like? I haven't used ESPHome yet, but it's my understanding HA picks it up automatically if it's on the same network.
ESPHome is awesome. It will pick it up in Home Assistant. I will release a video on that part in the near future. If you flash a chip yourself you will have to edit the yaml in ESPHome before it is fully ready.
Yes, that is correct. I am flashing it with ESPHome but it can be flashed with MQTT. The ones I am flashing with ESPHome have the yaml code corrected already. @@DaveHenning
****The giveaway winners have been drawn!!!**** They are as follows: @timhelton161 @notchy1200 @FOreverYoung @a802jz Congratulations to the giveaway winners!!! For those that wish to purchase a diy ratgdo from me fully assembled and flashed with ESPHome, you can do so here for now: www.buymeacoffee.com/thedaddyshow/e/189951. As soon as I get antoher method up and running I will update the link. I'm working on making some really pretty pcb boards with some other features no one else has so please consider going to www.buymeacoffee.com/thedaddyshow/ and donate to help further this project. ****The video on how to flash the DIYratgdo board has been published!!! - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-f235NBUcelg.html *****
I know you have not mentioned it but is a casing for this an option? Or suggestions of keeping it getting dusty in the garage. Do you just leave this inside the white plastic cover where you pull back to replace the lightbulb of the garage door opener?
I do not have a cover as of now. If there is enough demand/support I plan to get a pcb put together and a case as well. Right now, however, there is no case or cover. I currently have mine (the first one built) set in side the garage door opener light cover.
I can certainly add you to the giveaway drawing if you have subscribed and liked. As for selling some: we can certainly discuss that was well, especially if you are wanting them before I complete the drawing.
@@thedaddyshow01 I see you are selling the board do you ship it to Canada? how much it may cost? Can you also add flashing video as this device requires additional steps to add into HA
I do plan to make a video on flashing and setting up in Home Assistant. Have you used ESPHome inside Home Assistant before? I am selling boards and have a link to order those. I have to find out what it costs to ship to Canada. Email me at the1daddyshow@gmail.com and we can discuss further.
VERY thorough and I feel like anyone would be armed with enough info to tackle this. You're doing the Lord's work my friend! I want one from you, but don't put me in the giveaway. I want to know what you would charge to do a whole home automation package setup.
Hell yeah the video is finally up 🎉🎉🎉 Nice clean set up good solder joints small but powerful little project. Will it integrate with other home assistant I.E. Google Home or Alexa. Great job brother 💙💙💙
That is an excellent question! One to which I do not know the answer for certain. I set mine up via ESPHome but it can be done via MQTT. I would recommend checking the ratgdo documentation. I do not know much about Google Home or Alexa. I have neither.
Thank you brother! Great tip. Work like a charm. My wife’s been worried about her car. We switched out the battery and I was just troubleshooting check the fuses and it still wasn’t starting and when I watched your video I was like bingo ! Went and tried it and it work perfectly! Thanks again 🙏🏽
This is kind of the perfect situation for 3d printing. You could mount the Shelly and the original switch board into a shared case and it would look nice. I bet you could power the Shelly too, but it would require essentially an itsy bitsy ups... Either way, awesome project!
Love the ingenuity! Don't let the "You could of" and "You should of" comments discredit your work! There will always be a better solution out there, but the one that works with the budget and tools you have is often the best one. Especially if you came up with it on your own!
Well said! I appreciate your candor. I love all the suggestions so far. I will be working to make some changes in the future and I’ll upload an updated video. You are correct, I did what I could with the current budget and supplies on hand and made it work as-is for now. Thank you for the sentiment!
One of the greatest videos ever. I wish this one would get top billing. Issue described has happened to me twice over the course of two years. Thankfully I saved this video because it happened to me again recently and I couldn't remember the procedure and needed to watch the video again. When an engine cranks but won't start, a lot of people think their issue is a bad fuel pump, a weak battery, a bad alternator, or a host of other issues when in all likelihood it's just what the guy in the video described...a simple reset. Saved a lot of time and money thanks to this one.
You are better off using a ratgdo, it hooks directly to the button terminal on the operator and speaks directly to the garage door controller. This means it know if the door is moving, and what position the door is in, so you can give it commands like open door to 20%. It also can control other functions of the door, such as the light, give you cycle counts and diagnostic information, and a ton more.
@@thedaddyshow01 open up the remote that came with your garage door opener. Solder the two leads from the Shelly to the button of the remote. To power the Shelly cut a computer power cord and wire it in. Find any open outlet in the garage and plug in.
This would ultimately be the same as what I did only it would use a remote instead of the button. But I do like what you are saying. I will have an updated video coming shortly with some new information and a possible better way to make it work!
Do you mean the plastic clips that hold wires? If that’s what you mean i usually just use a pair of pliers on the back side to squeeze it and I gently pry with a screwdriver on the other side to pop it out.
If you are asking which cylinder is number 4; according to a Nissan Mechanic they are numbered 2,4,6 across the front and 1,3,5 across the back starting with 2 being on the passenger side and 6 toward the driver side and 1 toward the passenger side and 5 toward the driver side.
