This is why I have NEVER bought an American car!! I borrowed my sister’s MKX and the front driver’s side tire went flat. No problem, I’m a capable guy, I’ll put in the spare. NOPE!!! Nothing worked. 2 hours waiting for a AAA guy to show up at night - never again. You can them.
Thanks for taking the time to post this video.. you save us all a bunch of time and $$$. I got the same 3.7 Mkz I just got the P0456 code this morning I'm gonna try to apply what you shared... wish me luck!
Thank you soooo much!!!! I was so frustrated with this problem car iron wouldn’t go on nut and I purchased a 20&21mm socket and they just spun😩but I used a 19mm socket and hammered it on and BOOM the nut came right off! Thanks again for this video!!!!!!
Our 2014 2.0 MKZ started farting while my wife was in it.we’ve foot a code for new oxygen sensor that came in today.thanks for the video to stop my wife from worrying on her ride home
For what it's worth, this is an issue with my 2017 Ford Expedition Limited too. Went to do a simple rear brake job and couldn't get the lug nuts off. I thought I was going crazy until the Ford parts person told me about the problem. This is pretty ridiculous and is something that never happened on my older Expedition. I'm going to get some aftermarket ones after I get these off.
My 2014 four-cylinder with eco-B, sort of has a similar issues. It’s only if I’m driving on the freeway and I gas it and it sputers or as soon as I fill up the gas tank it idles rough and shut off after the second or third time I start it back up, everything‘s fine. Could this be in relation to the problem you repaired here? I know I’m late on asking I just found your video 😬😬😬
After first replacing the ignition coils and spark plugs, which the plugs were in really bad shape, I still had rough idle and engine shudder at 40-45mph! Then this video recommended to change the purge valve out. Well, I replaced the evap purge valve. Guess what? It actually eliminated the rough idling AND the engine shudder!!! For the past few days the car has been running exceptionally smooth! BTW, I decided that since it has 126,000 miles now, might as well replace the Throttle Body. Well, I changed that too and now the acceleration response is way better! Next I'll replace all the fuel injectors because one of the codes was Cylinder 1 fuel injection fault. Then, I'm going to inspect all the vacuum lines and anything like hardened rubber hoses or brittle plastic tubing is also getting replaced! This car is going to my daughter as her first vehicle. I don't want her to have any auto problems!!! Have a great day!
Well, it turns out that my daughter is in school in Boston so she WILL NOT need this car (excellent subway system). Even better! One less thing for me to worry about. One less expense too!! On another note. The car has been performing better since all the replacement work. I don't know if I had said this before but after changing the ambient air temp sensor the AC is wroking well again. This is the sensor that is mounted on the front of the vehicle bottm left side behind the plastic grille. Anyway, if this sensor malfunctions it will display erroneous outside air temps causing the AC to not operate correctly. Ok, that's it for now. The car now has 139,000 miles. Have a great day.
2016 focus rs, changed the wheels many times but used aftermarket lug nuts. Today i decided to throw these ones on, since they looked pretty and they're factory.... yeah fucking bad idea... changed one wheel, started to torque the lug nuts to spec and felt my torque wrench slip on one of them, because it was not fully on there, didn't even realize until it was too late. Will try to just hammer the socket on tomorrow, i hope it works... of all the thing i thought could go wrong... this was not one of them. Ah yeah, a warning to everyone changing stuff on a rs... fomoco pinches bolts, BE VERY CAREFUL to not crossthread stuff, especially the pedalbox
Jp J the Ford Parts website may help. If you enter your VIN, you should be able to find the part on their website. It also typically has a diagram with the location. That would help determine where it is on your make/model/year/engine.
Have a 2017 Escape. Blew a tire. This saved me after a couple of hours of frustration, and a trip to O'Reilly's and Harbor Freight trying to find "grabber" sockets. Next time I have my car serviced I'm changing the remaining factory lug nuts. Will do the same with my 2015 Escape.
My friends 2012 Explorer has P0196 and P0198 which are rich codes and it also stalls after getting gas could this be the purge valve causing the problem since it isnrelated to gas vapors? It idles rough as well
Ha! hard starting after filling from almost empty! I also have this problem. It takes a lot for the engine to start when filling from EMPTY. If the car has, say half a tank, it doesn't happen. If it has a quarter tank it doesn't happen. BUT, whenever I fill up from almost empty, it ALWAYS has starting problems!!! I have not reached empty yet after this purge valve replacement. When I do I will check for this problem. I will update this thread so everyone here can know if this is the culprit for the hard starting also. Have a great day!
Didn't know this was a problem until today when I went to have my tires rotated and the tech rounded a lug and couldn't get it off. Not sure if he knew this method but didn't want to expose himself to additional liability. He told me about the expanded lugs, but I didn't believe him until searching on youtube. Thanks for the vid as I was successful in getting my lug off using this method.
Hey thanks for this video. I really thought I was going absolutely crazy! I mean plumb outta my mind. At first I thought Ford didnt want me to remove any wheels, I bought two lug wrenches only to face the same problem ( I returned them with refund no problems) Man. What a shitty thing for Ford/Lincoln to do to owner. They have some stinking nerve not to own this problem, do the dam right thing and put out a major recall And by the way, I never get any real responses to this but i'm going to put in out there anyway. All the auto manufacturers who used those shitty dumb ass plastic headlights that every dam one of them frosted over? That should have been a MAJOR!! recall. Anything with headlight distortion is a major safety issue, but that was left to me, the customer to correct their lousy crappy work. Again..thanks for this video. i'm contacting the law firm tmrw. I had to lay out time, money, expenses, gas for their mistakes.
Just wanted to drop a quick Thanks in here. Picked up a 19mm deep socket, hammered it over each swelled lug nut like you recommended and was able to replace all 20. I still can't believe Ford has done nothing to make this right...shameful
Total rip off! I can tell you this. My nephew once worked as a "service advisor" at a dealership. He told me that the standing order from management is to recommend as much replacements, flushing, etc. To every single customer regardless to maximize profits!!! So, beware of the dealerships. They are not in business to help you as much as to help themselves!!!
I replaced with 12mm-1.5 thread lug nuts. They use the 19mm (3/4) socket. There is a place in the owners manual where you can check the size/thread. Also, the ones I purchased told me how many rotations at minimum were needed. The wheelguard 1957 brand from amazon fit well, but shows some rust after a year.
I’m having hesitation when accelerating. I’m replaced spark plugs and ignition coils and still having the symptom. I have no DTC codes and when I tried blowing into the purge valve I do have some air going through not closed. Any thoughts or feedback would be gtreat.
This is the same I did! Still has the problem! BUT, after changing the evap purge valve it eliminated the rough idling, engine shudder at 40-45mph, AND the engine ran very smooth after this was done. It's worth trying since the part is only $25 on Amazon. Have a great day!
