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In 1992 my father paid $3500 for my first car, the 1980 10th Anniv. 280ZX Black and Gold version. I still have it. Totaled it at least once. Many dollars later it still looks new. Great video! It's difficult to capture the stunning appearance of this car on camera. Direct sunlight versus overcast completely changes the gold tone. On a sunny day nobody bothers me about this car but once the sun begins to set or on a cloudy day, it gets an annoying level of attention. Fred made some good decisions concerning the paint on his Michigan car! I made some different decisions so it was great to see the alternatives here! I found mine for sale in the AJC news paper's classified ads in 1992. Wasn't sure what to think when reading "black and gold"??? Rode 2 hours to check it out and immediately thought it was the ugliest car I had ever seen, even my father frowned at it. A few minutes later the color scheme began to gain appeal. I had looked at many 240-280z's and favored their often black racing style interiors but the modern luxuries of the ZX won my vote. Power steering, windows, mirrors, antennae, automatic climate control, headlight squirters???, T-tops, leather seats, attenuated speaker level adjustment, locking exposed gas cap, adjustable seats with lumbar, airplane style map light, rear windshield wiper, painted alloy wheels in matching color scheme, amber lit instrument cluster, digital clock with lap counter, computer dash indicator display and other modern amenities were lacking on earlier Z models which had different design goals. I'm glad Fred mentioned the crossover with the Maxima model as this isn't mentioned enough in other discussions about the S130 ZX.
I've got 3 of these myself. 79, 82 and 82 Turbo that was stripped for parts. These were one of THEE super cars you wanted back in the day. BTW, the 240Z had a higher HP/weight ratio than the 911. The ZX is more of a personal luxury car than a sports car. You CAN make it into more of a sports car with suspension mods, but it's really a comfy car as is. The turbo 5 speed, 2 seater is the one you really want. Simple mods to the XZT and you're in the 250HP range. You can get over 400 streetable, but that's a bit more work. The DOHC is not going to take... far, far to expensive and you're far better off with a turbo conversion or RB transplant.
In 1981 I come from brasil and my first car in the USA was navy blue, black roof 2 door ford torino that I bought for 150.00 dollars at the time, work fine but burning a lot oil.
I hear you, but it really did protect the paint on the metal parts. Honestly, I did not do anything to keep it in good shape over the years and should've removed and replaced it a long time ago. Thanks for watching the video!
Enjoyed the video and interview with Fred! I owned a '79 when I was 16. Now at 54, I picked up a '83 a few years ago. The appreciation and love for these cars is something that has stayed with me all these years. Thanks!
Yes they can really fck up your brakes I have the same on my van on the rears Never noticed On the other hand had in on my carbon brakes on my BMW And that is very much hear able 😂
You can take the pads off and place a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and sand the pads in a circular motion, make sure the surface is actually flat like a tabletop dont use an agressive sandpaper because the pad material is much softer than people would expect. Its not making even contact and those stripes of rust are just carving grooves into the pad and transfering that again to the rotor itself makint the problem worse, sand the rotor as well maybe even take a wire wheel and buzz it good to clean all those slots. Also you have a "drilled and slotted" rotor which requires more attention and maintinence than a standard rotor
You don't get that deep score marks like this, caused by the pads, or the score marks would Not be intermittent on the plate. Something is or it looks like a piece of thick metal got caught between the calipers, then fell off. Or is still trapped - Strip the pads and do a visual.
@@JohnHadleigh-ho4ll not just the pads but he's using drilled and slotted rotors, notice how the lines are near the holes almost as if the pads riding over all those gaps might be causing something, I work in a shop and almost every set of drilled and slotted rotors I've seen has done something similar with age, sometimes there's 4 or 5 different rings in line with each hole
@@JohnHadleigh-ho4ll if you're cleaning pads and rotors it's best to remove the rotor anyways because you're probably gonna want to clean both sides and inspect slide points and caliper hardware, no risk of getting debris anywhere it's not intended to be, cars drive on the road, the road is dirty
Not to mention a junk yard😂 all the piping in the work and for what you need it will cost you 3$ and a grinder or a sawzaw blade but hey if it works it works, you just taught me something that I thought would surely break
Literally seen a pile a steel and galvanized steel piping at least 10 feet tall today at Home Depot, that to expensive for you? Go get a 3foot 2in ID exaust pipe from autozone for like 10$
If you have to change the other side, then you have to change this side regardless of whether it's in good condition or not. You always change rotors in pairs so that your pads wear evenly
